Chocolate, raisins, damp soil and mulch mark the nose of this independently bottled Mortlach, a beguiling combination that keeps revealing new textures. The palate is equally complex: prunes, black tea, a little spice, caramel. The finish is long and gentle, with a hint of cocoa powder. I found the flavors on the 15-year-old from G&M disappointed muted, but its older sibling turns their volume up a couple of notches and mixes them with perfect balance. One of those whiskies that leaves me with a spring in my step.