Generously_Paul
Port Dundas 1988 28 Year Clan Denny (Douglas McGibbon)
Single Grain — Lowlands , Scotland
Reviewed
March 25, 2019 (edited April 19, 2019)
Stop number 108 on the newly extended SDT is Port Dundas. A Lowland distillery that was built in 1811 and demolished 200 years later in 2011. At one time in the late 19th century it was the largest distillery in Scotland. As it was only recently closed down, there are still some bottles available on the market, but all are from independent bottlers as I believe there were no official bottlings released. This 28 year old single grain scotch is from the Clan Denny line from Douglas McGibbon & Co. A single cask (cask# DMG11753, a refill hogshead) that was filled in October of 1988 and bottled in May of 2017. Bottled at 50% ABV and is non chill filtered and natural color of yellow gold. My bottle is number 6 of 249. Speaking of bottles, the label on this one is quite ornate and comes of as very classy.
A word of advise to my SDT cohorts @LeeEvolved @PBMichiganWolverine @Scott_E and @Telex ...like a well aged single malt, this single grain needs time in the glass to compose itself before it is ready for the big show. Would you expect Mike Tyson to roll out of bed, throw on some gloves and go toe to toe with Evander Holyfield? No, he needs to warm up first!
The nose has an initial nip of grain alcohol but that quickly subsides. Wood spices follow in the form of ginger, cinnamon, clove, and anise. Light vanilla, toffee, burnt sugar, caramel and maple. After more time the vanilla becomes much more pronounced along with some brown sugar. Caramelized banana, some light pineapple and tobacco and dry grass. Buttery corn and slightly meaty. I get a familiar malty biscuit aroma even though there is no malted barley here, weird. Some faint menthol or eucalyptus rounds everything out. Not too shabby at all.
An intense arrival on the palate that has just the right amount of heat, but also quite fruity. Coconut and pineapple aplenty with something like grapefruit but not as sour or citrusy. Possibly kiwi with some honeydew and green grapes. Vanilla and some bitter tannins but I have to say they work with the profile rather than against it. Ginger, oak, toffee, some pepper and a touch of honey. Sweet corn (even though I believe this is wheat based), clove and more ginger.
A medium bodied mouthfeel that is both creamy and oily, dry.
The finish is medium long with toffee, vanilla and oak, dry.
The bar for single grain scotch whisky is low, so low you are more likely to trip over it than hit your head on it. This Port Dundas however, has raised that bar, perhaps knee hight. 28 years did wonders here and it provided further evidence that grain whiskies need 2-3 times the age of their malt whisky counterparts to really shine. The palate reminded me somewhat of the Bowmore Gold Reef and White Sands, which made me imagine that this is what an unpeated Bowmore might taste like. I got this bottle at auction for $85, which now seems like a complete steal. I would recommend anyone out there interested in trying older grain whiskies to seek them out. Stick to over 25 years old though. I kept going back and forth between a 4 and a 4.25, but all things considered I’m going with 4.25.
Cheers
85.0
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Bottle
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$85 for a closed distillery!? That’s a steal
Millennials scratching heads everywhere over that analogy. :)
@Scott_E glad I didn’t have to wait too long to get an ear biting reference
@Generously_Paul Mike Tyson would throw some gloves on and bite off an ear.