The Driftless Area is arguably the most unique corner of the Midwest. Rugged and hilly, it's more like Vermont than the stereotypical endless cornfields and prairies conjured up by saying "I live in the Midwest." The glaciers left this part of the country alone, and so we're blessed with amazing scenery that's also largely prevented large-scale monoculture from taking root. Farms are small, often organic, and usually not focused on churning out GMO corn and soybeans, and with that, there's a different social vibe here, too - again, think Vermont and its odd, but somehow functional, blend of old farmers and hippie types. Small wonder, then, that one of the region's distilleries (a newer one, at that) focuses on grain-to-glass, farmer-focused, organic grain-based spirits. So, that's wonderful and all, but how's the booze? Pretty good, I'd say. This gin brags about locally sourced botanicals as well as grain from a single farm, plus fresh spring water, and all of those come together in a subtle, understated fashion. There's not a huge standout ingredient here screaming for attention; if anything, the grains get the star role for helping create a spritely, smooth, and delicate - almost lacy - spirit. The lightly creamy quality that wheat-based gins often have is here, and just a touch of oiliness. This is a really excellent base. The grain-forward profile does come through on the nose with a light porridge/bread note, plus delicate evergreen plants and a touch of pepper. This isn't a particularly strong nose. Of course, that suits the palate, which is also fairly light and easygoing - the juniper is present, but comes across as more of a refreshing background of evergreen forest than anything else. Pepper, Sichuan peppercorn, lemon, and grassy green herbal notes are also present, plus a hint of limestone-like minerality at the end of the palate. So, why not quite 4 stars? This is pleasant, very much so, but it leaves me wanting a little more. I'd love to see the botanicals pushed up just a notch, but without losing the loveliness of the spirit itself. As it is, there's just a sense of restraint here that seems almost timid, and I think this gin has more to give yet. Still, a great start, and certainly pleasant on its own or mixed with a spice-forward tonic.