cascode
Wolfburn Morven Single Malt
Single Malt — Highlands, Scotland
Reviewed
May 31, 2019 (edited March 1, 2021)
Wolfburn tasting at The Oak Barrel, Sydney, May 30th 2019: Whisky #3
Nose: A very mild, almost shy peat-reek that dances around a fruity-floral distillate. Pineapple, tangerine, peach and apricot nectar, but in a subtle and dilute form. The initial nosing is floral, almost candied, with fruit and a touch of vanilla, but over time as the whisky rests and opens in the glass smoke becomes more apparent. It's a simple nose but the balance between the two key components is good.
Palate: A sweeter and richer arrival than the stablemate Northland and Aurora expressions. The peat smoke is stronger on the palate than it is on the nose and the tasting notes are reversed - the smoke arrives first and then in the development the fruity and sweet notes emerge. There is a little hint of brine and the spicy kick in the development that is characteristic of young Wolfburn is here much less spiky and bright - more sweet chili sauce and ginger in syrup than black and white pepper. Raisin and sweet malt make an appearance and the texture is well balanced - just slightly on the creamy side of neutral.
Finish: Medium/long. The spicy and smoke characteristics die away slowly and the finish is pleasant overall, but there is a bitter quality in the aftertaste.
An enjoyable whisky produced using very lightly peated malt (<10ppm) and matured in a combination of 1st-fill and refill bourbon barrels and refill American oak quarter casks. I could easily have believed that there was a sherry cask making a small contribution, but no - it's 100% bourbon. However the sweetness is perfectly matched by a dry briny note that prevents it from becoming cloying.
It is absolutely not a peat monster, and the peat-reek is unlike any Islay. It's gentle and fragrant - more like Speyside smoke - and it acts as an ingredient rather than the primary facet on the nose.
This was a popular whisky at the tasting and I enjoyed it enough to buy a bottle.
"Above Average" : 84/100 (3.75 stars)
100.0
AUD
per
Bottle
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