cascode
Bowmore 12 Year
Single Malt — Islay, Scotland
Reviewed
July 2, 2019 (edited December 16, 2021)
Bowmore tasting evening at The Oak Barrel, Sydney, June 26th 2019: Whisky #2
Nose: Fruit notes, predominantly citrus, but neither fresh fruit nor marmalade - more like the aroma of preserved lemons in olive oil and brine. Smoke is notable as is the aroma of honey-sweetened black tea. There's a trace of vanilla pod, some faint cider vinegar and a somewhat sawdusty oak note.
Palate: The arrival is an interesting mix of briny and fruit elements, which makes it simultaneously dry and sweet. The development brings further brine and a well-defined peat-reek. The sweet notes remain but they are balanced by a dry, bitter, almost astringent chocolate flavour like unsweetened cooking cocoa, and by an ashy anise or licorice note with herbal tones. The texture is bright and briny rather than oily.
Finish: Medium. Hay, ashy smoke, brine and traces of fruit but it ends with a thin woody aftertaste.
I've always thought of Bowmore's core 12 year old as being a conservative "coastal" malt with a couple of quirky edges. The nose is maritime and citric, with the smoke like a waft from a coastal steamer's funnel, and the salt-spray is never far off. A dash of water adds softness and makes the nose fruitier and more fragrant.
The palate continues the nose but there is greater influence of wood and smoke. Dilution is of benefit here as it adds sweetness and tones the smokiness, but it does have a tendency to add a soapy note.
It's a well-made malt with a strong personality, but after many tastings I've yet to come away feeling really satisfied by it. Many esteem it, but for me it's never been more than competent and I'd far rather spend the money on something else. I think the low proof might be at least half the issue and I'd love to taste this at 46%.
I'm increasing my rating this time round by a quarter point as this expression is a little more interesting than the last time I tried it.
"Above Average" : 82/100 (3.25 stars)
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Originally reviewed April 30, 2017
Nose: Citrus, bright cider, vegetal notes and pickle juice. A touch of vanilla and a faint, dilute smokiness.
Palate: Dried fruits, soft peat, herbal notes, wood, sweet pepper, and anise. Faint briny salt plums and some ash. Like the nose, the palate seems to be on the thin side.
Finish: Medium. Dry, mildly smoky and briny.
On the whole I thought this was a mix of conservative and quirky characteristics, but not a comfortable one. I also noticed that over time as the bottle emptied the brighter notes on the nose and palate disappeared and it all became rounder and rather flat.
I was not overly impressed and wouldn't buy it again, but it's not actually bad. I have a feeling that the house style of Bowmore is one you either love or hate and the best experience is with the older and more intense expressions. This one is fairly average, but I'm pushing it to 3 stars because it is undeniably very well made - for me it just lacks something critical.
“Above Average” : 80/100 (3 stars) [AUD$85.0 per bottle]
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97.0
AUD
per
Bottle
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