Nose: It's a bright, clear day on Islay. Brillant blue skies, warm sunshine and a bracing onshore breeze lift the senses as you take a morning stroll on the foreshore at Bunnahabhain Bay. Sunlight sparkles off the water and you suddenly smell the aroma of a beach bonfire - dried kelp burning on the sand, carried to you on occasional gusts of wind. Upwind, someone opens a container of freshly shucked oysters and squeezes lemon over them, and on the hills to the west someone starts a diesel engine and fires up a Toscano cigar. Palate: Delicate sweet-brine on the entry with developing peppery smoke and a delightful oily texture. As it unfolds, the peat-smoke builds and expands, gaining a warm and comforting tarry quality and a phenolic presence. Creosote, lemon, Seville orange, rhubarb, sage and brine build alongside the smoke. Finish: Medium/long. Initially herbal, smoky and citric, but the late finish and aftertaste bring a most unexpected chocolate-malt note, which is delightful. The initial nose is refreshing and crisp, and continues to open and develop as it rests. After a while, sweeter fruity aromas become apparent and these are in turn followed by more lemon, some soy sauce and just a little discreet oak. It's a marvellous nose, and classic Islay all the way. The palate is just a half point less impressive than the nose but that does not mean it disappoints, as it has a rich and satisfying character. Don't add water, this is just perfect neat. An (unfortunately) rare example of a good value TRE bottling. At retail prices, when it's available, this costs about AUD$160, but when I purchased it at Sydney airport a while back it was AUD$115 for a 1 litre bottle, and at that price I'd certainly recommend it. It's very different in profile to the Lagavulin 16 I tasted yesterday, but easily its equal. I've tasted several of the peated Bunnahabhain expressions and this one is far and away my favourite. "Very Good" : 85/100 (4 stars)