Nose: Pungent and assertive, hefty peat, fruity and well-rounded notes of red berries, cloves, aniseed and orange zest. The peat-smoke never loses the upper hand but it remains well-balanced. As it develops in the glass the smoke intensifies at first but then as you become used to it, it seems to fade and the winey-berry-spice facet dominates. Adding just enough water to drop the abv to about 45% does no harm at all. It removes the "prickle" of highish ethanol and allows the fruity elements to come forward. Excellent both neat and watered. [The dry glass is all earthy peat-smoke]. Palate: Big intense arrival - sweet, peaty and fruity with expansive berry notes again. It's a commanding entry but again I found it quite well-balanced and enjoyable at neat strength. There's a richness to the palate that is almost meaty (reminiscent of bacon - a hint of saltiness) and the texture is full and rounded. Some tannins creep in during the mid-palate but they are polite and well-behaved, contributing a chocolate character. There is a little gingery spice but it's not a hot palate at all, just intense. Adding a little water blooms the sweet and fruity aspects considerably and modulates the peat smoke without spoiling it. Dilution is well recommended. Finish: Long. The sweet tannic undercurrent slowly fades and ashen Speyside-style peat reek echoes into the distance. The aftertaste is of cold lapsang souchong tea. Water again slightly sweetens the aftertaste but it remains enfolding and long with the tea character moving more towards creosote. Intensely peaty, unusually so for BenRiach - this profile is moving slightly more in the direction of Islay peat-reek than Speyside smokiness. Indeed, it occasionally brought both Caol Ila and Kilchoman to mind, but it's not at all medicinal. The official rating here is pretty much on target but I don't agree with the official comments. I also noticed after I'd written this that David Broom on Whiskey Advocate didn't think much of it. Fine, I've never thought much of his reviews. Many thanks to @Soba45 for the tasting sample. The price I've quoted is for when it was last available, as an indication. What a pity it's no longer around - I'd buy a bottle without hesitation. "Very Good" : 85/100 (4 stars)