BigJimFolsom
Larceny Small Batch Kentucky Straight Bourbon
Bourbon — Kentucky, USA
Reviewed
January 30, 2020 (edited February 4, 2020)
BACKGROUND: Larceny is a wheated bourbon that is produced at 92 proof by Heaven Hill Distillery. Though the mash bill has not been released, the distillery has said that it contains “one-third more wheat than other competitors.” The bourbon won a Double Gold Medal designation at the 2014 San Francisco World Spirits Competition.
Larceny is one of two bourbons whose named is supposedly derived from the life of John E. Fitzgerald, a Treasury agent who never produced a single drop of whiskey or owned a distillery.
As an agent, Fitzgerald was the only person allowed by law to hold the keys to bonded barrel storage rickhouses at the Stitzel-Weller Distillery. Late at night, though, Fitzgerald would use his keys to illegally enter the warehouses and help himself to the best bourbon barrels, which was the crime of “larceny.”
The other bourbon associated with him is “Old Fitzgerald,” which legend says Pappy Van Winkle himself named in honor of the crooked Treasury agent once his illicit entries were discovered.
NOSE: The nose carries strong notes of bananas and nuts, which, when coupled with the bread-like scent often associated with wheated bourbons, evoke the unmistakable smell of banana bread. I kid you not, it smells EXACTLY like banana bread.
PALATE: While oak is non-existent on the nose, it is the dominant flavor on the palate. I did not pick up the caramel and vanilla flavors most common to bourbon, but there was a significant citrus-like sweetness. The consistency of the bourbon was quite buttery, as well.
FINISH: The finish is a short one with just a small bit of warmth that never really gets started. A delayed spice on the finish does replace the sweetness on the palate.
FINAL ASSESSMENT: Larceny is a solid wheated bourbon that is good as a daily sipper at less than $20. While wholly unremarkable, it is satisfying enough to keep on a shelf. Though experienced bourbon connoisseurs will find it quite middle-of-the-road, it is ideal for introducing inexperienced drinkers to the hobby.
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