GlenDronach Master Vintage 1993 25 Year
Single Malt — Highlands, Scotland
Tasted March 8, 2020
Glendronach is my favorite sherried whisky, but I'm afraid I have to say that this is far from my favorite Glendronach. One recurring theme that I've found in tasting older whiskies is that you are guaranteed to pay for rarity but can only hope for satisfaction. To be clear, I'm not saying that this is a bad whisky. It's a tremendously accomplished expression and one that highlights different facets of the distillery's inventory of incredible barrels. Compared to the dessert drams that characterize the standard lineup, such as the cherry compote of the delicious 12-year-old (which blows Macallan out of the water) and the supreme 18-year-old (again, Macallan who?), this whisky is dry and almost savory. Nutty flavors predominate: bitter walnut, almond and amaretto, and creamy cashew. If I'd tasted it blind, I wouldn't have guessed that it was 20+ years old, because some grassy or herbal notes remind me of younger whiskies. There are bitter components that can be quite pleasurable, like cocoa or coffee, but there are a few too many to achieve the ideal balance.