Ardbeg and Macallan provoke a lot of intense fan devotion and, as a consequence, have some of the most extreme pricing in the single malt market. The unfortunate reality is that those prices put their virtuoso expressions out of reach for the average consumer, including this humble whisky drinker. Nonetheless, I was lucky enough to try this $300-400 bottle at a recent tasting that focused on sister brand Glenmorangie. In contrast to its Islay neighbors, Laphroaig and Lagavulin, Ardbeg's malt seems characteristically "heavy." It's dense and oily, an effect that doubles when aged in sherry casks that darkens and enrichens the fruit notes already present in the distillate. What it shares in common with those other distilleries is that it reaches peak balance and complexity in its mid to late teens, so Mickey Head and team made a wise choice by fixing this new permanent lineup addition at 19 years old. At this age, the smoke has softened up enough that it doesn't aggressively attack the palate, instead blending together flavors of long-steeped tea, cedar woodsmoke, and barbecue char in an intoxicating combination. This whisky has pronounced streaks of brown sugar, caramel, and dark chocolate as well. It's an overelaborated Michelin star restaurant dessert of a dram, and one of my favorite Ardbegs. Although it's hard to find a direct comparison, Lagavulin Distiller's Edition has a similar profile and is close in age (around 17 years), for about $200 less. In light of the stratospheric pricing, I have to deduct a half-star or so for this bottle.