ContemplativeFox
Càrn Mòr Cambus 1991 (27 Year)
Single Grain — Lowlands, Scotland
Reviewed
August 11, 2020 (edited June 19, 2021)
Rating: 13/23
My hope with this one is that the sherry finish and long aging help it achieve the body and complexity that grain whiskies tend to lack.
N: Wow! Immediately, I get dried fruits, chocolate, and toffee. It smells great! There's something a touch savory in there as well. It smells very hedonistic. After leaving it out for a while, I get dried fruits (sultanas, cranberries, prunes), toffee, chocolate, and some citron, along with some savory smell from the alcohol itself. It's a very nice mature smell, but it isn't as rich as I'd expect from a 27 year old dram. Watering it down to 40% straight from the bottle brings out more wood and savory graininess. The wood smells old and savory, not mildewed or like sawdust. A faint hint of citron remains, but the sweetness mostly disappears. This is now a savory, woody nose.
P: There's some definite heat from the proof, but there's some nice oily richness like some sorts of nuts and a dark toffee mixed with some dark dried fruits. This isn't a super sweet raisin flavor; it's more like an assortment of syrupy dried fruits. I strongly suspect a PX cask was used for this. I et some chocolate notes here and there as well, along with some savoriness. some spices are hidden in here as well. After leaving it out for a while, the tartness and variety of the dried fruits comes out more. I immediately sultanas, prunes, raisins (but not the ones with a confectioner's sugar sweertness), and rich dried oranges along with a hair of sweet dried apricot an oily nuttiness (walnut) that leads into a savoriness with a sort of chocolate richness backing it. It's tasty, but not terribly complex and with the proof it is pretty harsh. The complexity is OK though and the balance is almost there, so it's close to being pretty good here. With several drops of water added as I get low in the glass, more savoriness comes out, but there is still a syrupy element from the dried fruits, orange zest hint, chocolate, and now toffee that screams "PX sherry!". At 40%, the grain really starts coming through. There's a bit of rubber in the wood though. There is a lot more toastiness now and the mouthfeel is still viscous. The sultana sweetness is back after disappearing from the nose and it brings the faintest hint of orange with it. That rubber somehow fits with the wood in a way that I enjoy. It's more of an aldehyde flavor, which initially put me off on Glenflarclas 25 and Jollite VSOP (though I have yet to try Jollite again, so who knows on that one still). I suspect by the time I kill this bottle, I'll appreciate that flavor more. Still, it isn't a tremendously complex dram, so we'll see if I ever love it.
F: Some more bitterness comes out toward the finish, along with a bit of Clynelish style waxiness. The chocolate richness and oily nuttiness stay. It's a fine enough finish. Watered down, It's largely an oily, nutty finish with some wood.
Smelling the glass at the end I get this big vanilla, fruity, tart, slightly bitter rubber smell. It's like if you flambe some brandy to pour over a plum pudding and then just keep on cooking it down until it's a sticky goo. It is actually a fairly appealing smell despite being describable as "sticky goo".
I really like this. I don't love it though and at this price and age, I really should. It has these great hedonistic PX aspects combined with this harsh grain whiskey. It's like a pretty poor whiskey were put into a nice barrel and aged for a long time. The result is nice and I am quite happy drinking it, but if you're aging something for 27 years, it sure seems like you ought to choose something good to begin with.
There's no way that this is below a 10 and at the high end I'm seeing 15 (Geeze, that's a big range.) since I don't think it's as good as Càrn Mòr's 1992 Glen Grant 26 (which I'm only comparing because it's also from Càrn Mòr (which is a fricking pain in the ass to type (a statement that has no bearing on this review))). The Glen Grant has less going on, but it does a good job of showcasing mature, elegant nectar smoothness with refined bourbon spice. This is almost the opposite. It's surprisingly brash for its age and full of all sorts of flavors. The obvious comparison is Glenfarclas 105, which is almost the same proof and also demonstrates a conflict between the spirit and the cask. The Glenfarclas is a bit richer with (obviously) more malt persence, but also more vegetal notes. The Cambus is harsher and a bit drier with flavors that cohere a bit more. They're actually fairly similar, so for less than half the money and comfort in finding something easily (until global warming reduces its quality further), the Glenfarclas is probably the better choice.
Side by side with the Glenfarclas, both having been open for 10 minutes or so, I find that I can pick out the fruits and nuts from this a lot better than in the Farclas. The balance here is superior and although the palate isn't as full, the viscosity does come through. This I'd dare say is a couple of points better than the Farclas. The added brashness and alcohol flavor of the Farclas don't adequately compensate for the loss of balance.
I guess that puts this in the 12 to 15 range. I'm thinking 13 to 14 does seem reasonable in comparison with my recollection of Macallan 12 at 14. I'm going to land on 13 for now, but I do enjoy trying this with its nice PX flavor, so it could get bumped up in the future.
147.0
USD
per
Bottle
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Makes me want to go and get a bottle of the 105 now.