cascode
Berry Bros. & Rudd Classic Blended Malt Sherry Cask Matured
Blended Malt — Scotland
Reviewed
September 11, 2020 (edited February 9, 2024)
Nose: Strong oloroso sherry presence. Raisins, resinous oak, rancio, brown sugar, treacle, orange oil. There is a distinct, and highly intrusive, note of sulphur. If you start to nose this carefully from a few inches away, slowly drawing closer to the glass, at a certain point you will suddenly catch a big, unmistakable whiff of sherry with no whisky presence at all. Then as you get closer the whisky notes win out.
Palate: Dark fruit, burnt sugar and black tea on the arrival. Some sweet orange and red berries in the development. Dark, slightly over-cooked Christmas cake. The texture is full but not heavy and there is a smidge of oaky bitterness. Once again there is a sulphur taint that shows as a rubbery black-olive note.
Finish: Medium. Fruity, treacle pudding fading out to dark chocolate and a hint of orange marmalade.
Berry Bros. & Rudd are the UK’s oldest wine and spirits merchants. They have been the British royal family’s appointed wine supplier for over 200 years and have held royal warrants since 1903. This is one of four blended malts they first released in 2018 as their “Classic Range”. The other expressions are Peated Cask, Islay Blended and Classic Speyside.
The moment I first nosed this, the following farcical Noël Coward-ish exchange popped into my mind:
“Darling … “
“Hmmm?”
“Add a bottle of whisky to the BB&R order, would you? There’s a dear … the Fortescue-Smythes are coming next week and I believe he prefers whisky”
“Do you know what brand?”
“Oh, I wouldn't have the slightest idea – they all taste the same, don't they? Just ask them to include something that will go with pheasant and retired colonel”.
This blend would be an adequate choice if you are unfamiliar with scotch whisky and want to experience an old-school, sulphur-tainted sherried presentation without spending a lot. You won’t really regret the experience and you will learn most of what there is to know about both the positives and negatives of the style.
However if you are already familiar with Glenrothes, Tamdhu, Benrinnes, GlenDronach or Glengoyne then you pretty much know this profile already along with all its attendant joys and disappointments. A single malt from any of the above distilleries will be more interesting and most likely of better quality (but also probably more expensive).
The vatting of this blend is not revealed but I’d wager there is a high percentage of young Glenrothes. It has that slightly rubbery, brimstone-industrial quality Glenrothes often displays. This was very noticeable when the bottle was first opened however it oxidised quickly over a few days and now that the level is down past the shoulder it is more enjoyable.
It is also improved by adding a teaspoon of water to the dram and allowing it to sit and rest in the glass for a while. This reduces the sulphurous note whilst bringing out fresher, fruitier qualities.
“Very, Very Average” : 75/100 (2.5 stars)
80.0
AUD
per
Bottle
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@cascode Thanks for that elaboration. I was wondering if that might be the case because I think Farclas goes harder toward the Oloroso than most. Also, I'm kind of disappointed to hear that this drinks so young.
The Fortescue-Smythes approve
@ContemplativeFox The whiskies I cited all have (to me anyway) a very "buxom" and showy type of sherry profile, which I don't get from Glenfarclas. It's quite soft and fragrant when young, and increasingly austere with age, but I never find it to be a "blowhard" of a profile (unlike Benrinnes) or hard and industrial (as Glenrothes and occasionally Tamdhu can be). As for age, who knows, I'd guess 6-8 years, but there may be a top-dressing malt to lift the profile which is very old and carries the overblown sulphurous character.
Nice tasting. I'm surprised Farclas didn't make the comparison list. Any idea how old this is?
Ah interesting. I had 1 of the BBR offerings before. Ok but didn't go back for 2nds. Wasn't that cheap either here.