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Cappelletti Pasubio Vino Amaro
Amaro — Piedmont, Italy
Reviewed
December 17, 2020 (edited September 24, 2024)
Appearance: Cloudy but almost transparent brown. A little like an old oloroso sherry, but not as clear.
Aroma: Blackberries, blueberries, pine trees, juniper, red vermouth and cider vinegar. There is a secondary aroma that is reminiscent of ale and sarsaparilla, and a very faint hint of ash.
Palate: Sweet and honeyed flavours on the entry but it is not at all heavy. These give way to mint and pine over a background of blueberries, grape skins and red grape juice that is just on the turn. A further development brings herbal notes and a mild bitterness from gentian and wormwood. It has an excellent mildly warming and lip-smacking quality.
Pasubio is an interesting amaro, being one of the rare examples that is based on aged red wine rather than neutral spirit. This gives it a totally different profile to most and it can take you by surprise on first sip. I tasted it for the first time last night and initially I didn’t like it much, in fact it seemed quite alien. After another small liqueur glass I started to get where it was coming from but I still wasn’t that impressed. I had intentionally not read the label so as not to influence my tasting.
This evening I poured another glass and this time read the label. “Vino amaro” it clearly says. Duh.
Suddenly everything fell into place and when I nosed it with the knowledge that this is wine-based it seemed familiar and well-composed. It’s amazing how a tasting can transform when you fit in a missing piece of the puzzle.
This is a well-crafted amaro of the “alpine” type. It has similarities to Braulio but is not as crisp. It is very different to sweet amari like Montenegro, Meletti and Vecchio Amaro del Capo, and it does not have the brisk citrus notes of Averna or Lucano. It’s probably one of the least immediately appealing of the different styles, but it is satisfying once you get to know it. There is a vague suggestion of both vermouth and sherry about it.
“Very Good” : 85/100 (4 stars)
55.0
AUD
per
Bottle
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@Soba45 & @CKarmios Thank you, sirs - I've been away for a few days with family and the mobile phone coverage is pretty poor in the country. Just catching up now to some comments I've missed. Cheers!
Congrats on 800!
Congrats on your 800th. That’s a lot of work you’ve been putting in and always with quality.
Hmm. Hard question, as there are several categories. It's like asking what is the best scotch single malt. OK, the long-winded answer: In the sweet general category probably Vecchio Amaro del Capo (I think it has the edge over Montenegro in complexity). In the demi-sweet chinotto/orange/herbal category probably Averna. In the alpine camp Braulio. I've only had one or two in the china, rabarbaro and carciofo categories so I can't judge them, and I've never tasted a tartufo. Short answer: Braulio. Bear in mind I've only tasted maybe 30 of the 50 or 60 amari that are available in Australia, but yeah, Braulio 😉 (see my review on Distiller).
Which was the best amaro you’ve had?