Tastes
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Bruges Whisky Company Ryggia Inaugural Release
Single Malt — Belgium
Reviewed November 14, 2023 (edited January 10, 2024)Nose: Red fruits, berries, raisins, orange peel, nuts (almonds?) and chocolate. Tobacco and salmiak aromas show up after a while, but they are subdued. Palate: The cask is evident right at the arrival with hefty oak flavours present. Tobacco, leather, rancio, Jamaican rum (!), molasses, gingerbread, apricot, clove, nutmeg. The texture is full but not oily. Finish: Medium/long. Spicy, sweet, dark fruits trailing off into soft tannins. An interesting whisky that I almost neglected to review. I came across this by chance last Christmas when we were in Bruges and a specialist spirits shop had it on display. I’d never heard of Belgian whisky before so naturally I dove into the shop and asked for a taste, which the owner was delighted to provide. Sadly, they had no water available (this is cask strength) and only little paper cups for tasting. Oh, dear lord … how plebian. Anyway, this was the inaugural release from the producers, following a few “in process” bottlings. It’s a well-textured, full-bodied malt that has more than just a little in common with some hot-climate whiskies I’ve tasted, such as Paul John and any number from Australia and Texas. How bizarre is that for a Belgian product. Maybe they are using those amazing Belgian beers for wash? More likely it is due to the rather frantic maturation in a combination of maple syrup, red wine, cognac and moscatel casks. Holy moley, it sounds like something Starward would try! Good stuff, I would have bought a bottle but regardless of its high quality and novelty interest it was overpriced for me. “Above Average” : 82/100 (3.25 stars)150.0 EUR per Bottle -
Blackwattle Distilling Co. Australian Grain Vodka
Unflavored Vodka — Sydney, NSW, Australia
Reviewed November 14, 2023 (edited January 10, 2024)Nose: Soft, vanilla-tinged ethanol. There is something else intangible that gives the nose a pleasant “creamy” quality (see below for the reveal). Palate: Creamy and soft on the arrival with the faintest possible hint of something spicy and herbal. A little white pepper and some chili. I’ve detected this chili “catch” in all this company’s products now so I’m wondering if it’s part of their distillation signature. Finish: Short. Neutral grain spirit trailing to slight bitterness. Blackwattle Distilling Co. is a new distillery recently established in the Sydney suburb of Rozelle, a couple of blocks from the old industrial foreshore area (which is undergoing redevelopment). Technically this area is called White Bay, but I guess the distillery owners liked the sound of Blackwattle better. We visited a couple of weekends ago and met Mark, one of the two distillers and company owners, who was dispensing free samples to visitors. This was our third taste of the day, after their two gins. Now, I’m no friend of vodka. For me it is an entirely pointless neat experience and only of use in cocktails. Fortunately, this is an OK vodka that is serviceable in any suitable cocktail context. Apparently the distillery's secret weapon here is wattleseed, an Australian native seed. They start with 96% ethanol sourced from the Manildra complex in southern NSW (as does almost every gin distillery in Australia) and then re-distill with wattleseed. This adds creaminess to both the aroma and palate. It’s not at all bad as vodkas go, but even so I have tasted better (yes, I know – how can you even tell the difference?) This is in my opinion the best thing that Blackwattle Distillery is currently producing. We were given a free 200ml sample bottle with our purchase of a 700ml bottle of their O.P. Gin and I’ve already used most of it. In hindsight I should have just bought a 700ml bottle of the vodka. “Above Average” : 80/100 (3 stars)65.0 AUD per Bottle -
Blackwattle Distilling Co. O.P. Sydney Gin
Distilled Gin — Sydney, NSW, Australia
Reviewed November 13, 2023 (edited January 10, 2024)Nose: Juniper, pine needles, cardamom, orange zest, and a nose-prickle of ethanol. Palate: Peppery and hot right out of the gate. Chili, white pepper, and a developing strong taste of lemon essence. Some cardamom and coriander seed comes through on subsequent tastes, but so does a sting of alcohol. The texture is OK, but not special. Finish: Medium/long. The intensity is all due to heat and the flavours cluster around citrus oils. The aftertaste is sour and bitter. Blackwattle Distilling Co. is a new distillery recently established in the Sydney suburb of Rozelle, a couple of blocks from the old industrial foreshore area (which is undergoing redevelopment). Technically this area is called White Bay, but I guess the distillery owners liked the sound of Blackwattle better. We visited a couple of weekends ago and met Mark, one of the two distillers and company owners, who was dispensing free samples to visitors. This was the second spirit we tasted. After their very mild “Dry Sydney Gin” that we tasted first this had more presence, but it’s a bit narrow in character and has a lot of heat … too much to be enjoyable neat. The strength is also a little odd. There is no legal definition of “navy” gin but by default it is usually 57% abv or more, so why did they cut this to 55%? At least they don’t chill-filter it We bought a bottle, more to support a fledgling local business than anything else, but in hindsight I would not have done so. It does not work particularly well in a G&T but it does fare better in mixed drinks. It can certainly stand up against Campari in a negroni, so I guess that’s how I’ll be using it up. “Average” : 75/100 (2.5 stars)85.0 AUD per Bottle -
Blackwattle Distilling Co. Dry Sydney Gin
Distilled Gin — Sydney, NSW, Australia
Reviewed November 13, 2023 (edited January 10, 2024)Nose: Citrus (orange, tangerine, mandarin, etc), some gentle juniper and pine needles. Palate: Soft and creamy and very light on the juniper to start. With time a little white pepper and juniper shows up but it’s a decidedly mild palate. The texture is very pleasant. Finish: Short. The palate dwindles to citrus quickly, and then disappears. Blackwattle Distilling Co. is a new distillery recently established in the Sydney suburb of Rozelle, a couple of blocks from the old industrial foreshore area (which is undergoing redevelopment). Technically this area is called White Bay, but I guess the distillery owners liked the sound of Blackwattle better. We visited a couple of weekends ago and met Mark, one of the two distillers and company owners, who was dispensing free samples to visitors. Our first taste was this gin which I thought was a little underpowered to be honest. I chatted with Mark for a while and I was surprised to learn that they chill-filter it, and I had to wonder … WTF? I guess they are positioning it as a gin for very mild palates but it did not even stand up well against tonic water, and I can’t imagine it in a negroni – there would be no gin presence at all. Much as I would like to support a new business, and although there is nothing specifically at fault in this gin, it is lacking in character and for me simply below average. “Adequate” : 74/100 (2.25 stars)65.0 AUD per Bottle -
Arran Quarter Cask "The Bothy"
Single Malt — Islands, Scotland
Reviewed November 10, 2023 (edited April 24, 2024)Nose: (neat) Closed and tight, some woody cask aromas and malt but it's very restrained. There's a trace of honey and butter but they are masked by the ethanol. Over time a little more unfurls with lemon and grassy notes showing. Nose: (watered) Water brings out notes of fresh wood like newly-sawn planks, freshly mown hay, sunflower oil, lemon zest, pineapple and delicate honey, however it remains a very contained nose. The longer this sits to rest in the glass, the better. Palate: (neat) Sweet, fruity, heavy but again there is the feeling that it is locked up very tight. Some banana and coconut, and a little white pepper. Palate: (watered) It’s on the palate where water makes a real difference with the whole performance blooming and expanding immediately, however this remains a very fresh, crisp style of malt. Sweet citrus, coconut, honey, malt, tropical fruit, cereal, almond and cream. The mouth-feel is more full-bodied and it gains more heft as it rests after watering. Finish: (neat) Medium/Long. Sweet malty notes with lingering barley sugar sweetness. When watered the finish is not greatly changed, apart from becoming a little more dry with a hint of brine. Over time as it rests the finish becomes much longer with fresh, sweet citrus and orchard fruit in the aftertaste. Back before Arran had their great re-branding (around 2020 I think) they used to have an expression called The Bothy which was also quarter cask matured, however it was darker, more full-flavoured and richer than this expression. When the announcement was made to discontinue I managed to snag three bottles of the old Bothy Batch 2, and I’m glad to have them. Which is not to denigrate this whisky at all, on the contrary this is a very pleasant dram, both neat and when watered, and I enjoyed it most with dilution which I felt softened, released and amplified everything about it. That’s not surprising as I generally prefer my whisky under 50% abv, but here it was particularly so. I also noted with delight that this louches spectacularly when watered, just as the old Bothy expression used to. It's nice to see that Arran is still giving their spirits only the lightest of barrier filtration, and no chill-filtration. If adding water to this always wait for the “mist” to rise so you experience all the precipitated oils at their peak. If you don't see it, you have not used enough water - put more in. The whisky can take it and the louche is one of the delights of this expression. Tasted from a generous sample provided by @DrRHCMadden. “Very Good” : 85/100 (4 stars) just 2 percentage points and a quarter star down from the old expression) -
Starward Maple Cask Finish
Single Malt — Victoria, Australia
Reviewed November 9, 2023 (edited January 10, 2024)Nose: Red wine (sigh, it’s a Starward … again), ethanol, stewed mixed fruits, malt extract, golden syrup or molasses. Palate: What the🤔 it can't be 🤨arrrgh😖 how the 😶 I don't feel well🤕 help me 😢 oh lord 😟 errrrrrrrrrrgh 🤢pant … pant 🥴 wipes tears 😢 from eyes. Holy mother of mercy what was that. Excuse me while I go and call Herb on the porcelain telephone … 🤮 heeeeeeerrrrrb 🤮 heeeeeeeeeeeeeerrrrrrrrb 🤮 Finish: I honestly didn’t pay much attention. It probably lasts far too long. This was a sample generously (?) gifted by @DrRHCMadden, who I shall forgive only because in the same box he gifted me a sample of the angelic nectar that is Port Charlotte 2007 CC:01. This … substance … was apparently never released by Starward (NO – REALLY??? – YOU AMAZE ME, HOLMES) who instead bottled it for The Whisky Club. I presume they forced them to take it as part of a contractual agreement. The nose is deceptively agreeable and betrays no hint of the eldritch horrors awaiting in the murky depths of the palate. As soon as it hit my mouth I nearly gagged. It was like a mixture of golden syrup, burnt wood, tannin and new-make whisky. It gets worse as it remains in the mouth, eventually subsiding to a cloying, mouth-coating emulsion of mixed dried fruit and bitter syrup. Maple syrup cask indeed - harrumph 🤬 “Dreadful” : 57/100 (0.25 stars, 3 upchucks 🤮🤮🤮) -
Nose: An unctious nose with a hefty vinous quality to it (red wine casks being very obvious). Ethanol, malt, orchard fruit and a little vanilla. The nose screams “Starward!” to me as the red-wine cask contribution is always there on their whiskies, and it is not subtle. Palate: When neat it is momentarily sweet on the arrival with apples, pears and a little vanilla, but then huge tannins from the oak casks and red wine elbow their way to centre stage and push all the more sensitive actors into the wings. This thuggish crew then belts out a cacophonous drone of pepper, chili and ginger spice that all but drowns out any trace of nuance or style. This drinks far hotter than the 48% abv would suggest – it’s like an unruly cask strength malt. The texture is hefty and a little oily. It is much improved with dilution. Finish: Medium. Oaky and bittersweet, with wine and tannin fighting a duel until the last. This whisky was a limited release bottled by Starward for The Whisky Club in Australia. I’ve finally caught up with my tasting backlog and found this today in my “to-do” sample box. It was gifted to me a while back by @DrRHCMadden. It’s a hot dram and rather boisterous when neat so after the first two sips I had to add some water (about a teaspoon and a half to 25ml). This, and a rest in the glass, made a substantial improvement by taming the ethanol spike on the nose and allowing more subtle wood spice notes to emerge, together with some stewed fruits. On the palate it was also way more manageable with water, the arrival segueing into the later palate more gently. The initial orchard fruits last longer and the hot spices are significantly contained. I noted an apple cider note on both nose and palate once water had been added and the texture gained a creamy quality. Water is not just recommended for this, it should be mandatory Overall a pleasant whisky, if not in my favourite style. Like all the Starwards I’ve tasted to date it was interesting to try but I have no desire to own a bottle. Their spirit is clean and well made (the new-make is pleasant but not the best I’ve tasted) but there is something about this distillery that just does not click with me. I wish they would get over their love affair with ex-red-wine barrels and their obsession with finishing casks and instead just mature in ex-bourbon casks with a heavy char. I think it would work wonders for the spirit. “Above Average” : 82/100 (3.25 stars)
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Husk Bam Bam
Spiced Rum — Tweed Valley, NSW, Australia
Reviewed November 3, 2023 (edited January 10, 2024)Husk Farm Distillery, October 26th 2024, Rum #4 Nose: Orange zest, vanilla, cinnamon, ginger, allspice, brown sugar. Palate: Sweet and a little spicy hot on the arrival with building heat in the development, but it’s not like a chili heat – more a mix of hot and sweet cinnamon. Orange peel, clove, ginger, vanilla, nutmeg. Lots of mulled-wine spices. Finish: Medium. The spicy clamour dies down to a murmur over time. So, I’m not a big fan of spiced rum. I don’t hate them, I just don’t see the point and I seldom bother to buy one. When I do it tends to sit sadly at the back of the cabinet until it is used up in rum n’ Cokes or in cooking. This was a fine spiced rum as far as they go, but my rating is based more on what it is not rather than what it is. It is not an artificially flavoured mass-market product like Sailor Jerry or Captain Morgan, and it is certainly not a flaccid excuse for a rum like Kraken. It is more in line with artisan distillery spiced rums I’ve tasted like Dark Matter, Dead Man’s Gold and Rebellion Bay and that’s good company to keep. Oh, and the name? It’s nothing to do with a 60s cartoon character. It’s derived from Bajan slang and it's a bit untranslatable, but “hell yeah” is close enough for jazz. “Good” : 83/100 (3.5 stars)79.0 AUD per Bottle -
Husk Rare Blend
Gold Rum — Tweed Valley, NSW, Australia
Reviewed November 2, 2023 (edited January 10, 2024)Husk Farm Distillery, October 26th 2024, Rum #3 Nose: Hay, brown sugar, butterscotch, ash, banana and tropical fruit (but all very subtle and balanced). Palate: Sweet and gently fruity arrival, both fresh and dried tropical fruits (mango, banana, pineapple, guava, etc) but all very reserved. As it rests, raw sugar, brown sugar, maple syrup and butterscotch emerge, and later there is a honey and white-pepper note. The texture is creamy but light. Finish: Medium. Sweet fruity notes that fade into brown sugar. The finish is not particularly long but it remains sweet and gentle until the last memory. This was the first real rum, as defined by Australian law, that we tasted at Husk and it was delightful. It is a blending of two rums, the first being a 100% sugarcane-juice “agricole” style (the same product that Husk bottles as their “Pure Cane” spirit). The second component is a rum they distill from locally produced sugarcane honey (which is essentially reduced cane spirit and the first and lightest by-product of sugar production). The two spirits are then blended and barrel-aged for 2 years. The resulting product is a very good gold rum that shows some features of aged agricole and some that are more like a gold rum produced from molasses. It's a sort of blending of Martinique and Barbados styles, and similar in some ways to both Haitian and Mauritian rums. It is good as a neat sipper (but just on the limit of sweetness for me) and it works very well as the foundation for any manner of rum cocktails. Highly recommended, particularly to any fellow Australians reading this – give it a try. The price is competitive and I'm very happy to see this type of spirit coming out of Australia. “Good” : 84/100 (3.75 stars)70.0 AUD per Bottle -
Husk Pure Cane
Other Sugarcane — Tweed Valley, NSW, Australia
Reviewed November 2, 2023 (edited January 10, 2024)Husk Farm Distillery, October 26th 2024, Rum (Cane Spirit) #2 Nose: Sugarcane, green grass, pickle water, green olives in brine, sweet corn (!), yeasty white bread, unripe banana and a little funky hogo. Palate: Silky demi-sec arrival with cane sugar, grassy notes, green olive, artichoke, banana, and a little peppermint. The texture is full, almost oily, and the spirit seems to gain sweetness as it sits in the mouth. Finish: Medium: Grassy notes fading to a slightly funky aftertaste. I posted a listing here on Distiller for a product called “Husk Distillers Pure Cane Australian Agricole” a couple of years ago. This is exactly the same product but it has had a change of label, packaging, and most importantly title. The old bottling is no longer available. The previous wording they used was descriptively correct but borderline illegal. Husk may have been trying to make a case for a new term “Australian agricole” as distinct to just “agricole”, but agricole is a protected term and they were either called out on it or made an internal decision to re-brand. Also, Husk was the first new-generation rum distillery in Australia but over the last couple of years many more young rum distilleries have emerged. Most of these are making agricole-inspired sugar-based spirit but it can’t be called “rum”. The chosen term that has evolved is “cane spirit” and Husk Distillers may have decided to fall in line with this trend. None of which diminishes the fact that this is a delightful white rum (let’s call it that) with a clear agricole personality. It is pleasant to sip neat or over ice, but it really shines in a ti’ punch or in tiki-style cocktails. “Good” : 83/100 (3.5 stars)75.0 AUD per Bottle
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