Tastes

Sydney Whisky Show May 20th 2023. Whisky #28 Nose: Manuka honey, toffee, milk coffee, dried fruit (including cranberries) and oak. The cask aromas are large and prominent but not dominating – there’s just an obvious sense of wood influence but it's pleasant and controlled. It’s a big, hefty nose at first but at heart it’s a sweet pushover and with water it becomes even more gentle and gains a fragrance like crumbling autumn leaves. Palate: Sweet, rich deep arrival – dark honey, caramel and milk coffee. A touch of something smoky but it’s not peat-reek or simple bonfire smoke. Maybe smoked fruit or blackened aubergine? Adding water brings out a raft of spicy flavours – cardamom, allspice, white pepper and tumeric – but they are against a softer honeyed background with heaps of red berries, cranberries and dark cherries. There is a pinch of green capsicum, some asparagus and a little brine and those autumn leaf notes again, but these just add balance and are very subtle. The texture is creamy, almost oily, and very good. Finish: Medium. Chocolate, dried fruits and pepper. Although this was matured in peated STR casks you would never for a moment guess it. The profile is much more akin to a red wine cask maturation and there was, for me anyway, hardly a hint of smoke in either nose or palate. Neither is there a hint of the strength in the mouth, as this tastes more like 46% abv than something that is over 55%. This was a limited release bottling for the Sydney Whisky Show, distilled in July 2018 and bottled in February 2022 (so roughly 3 years old). It was matured in a peated STR cask of undisclosed origin (but I’d bet my last dollar it was originally a wine cask that was used for aging peated whisky somewhere in Scotland and then bought by M&H). 274 bottles were produced, of which mine is bottle #52. It’s a good whisky, very easy to approach and enjoy, but lacking a little something that would make it special. It’s by no means bad, but there’s no escaping the sense that it is young. In many ways it reminds me of some contemporary Australian whiskies and it would be fascinating to taste this at around 12 years old, if it could stand that much time in the cask. None the less I bought a bottle on the day as it impressed me even at this stage. Good solid stuff. “Good” : 84/100 (3.75 stars)

Sydney Whisky Show May 20th 2023. Whisky #27 Nose: Vanilla, honey, caramel, coconut (maybe banana?), soft floral flourishes, delicate fruitiness (mango, pineapple, gooseberry, melon) and a touch of pencil shavings. Palate: Vanilla and caramel on the arrival leading into a spicy citric development with a little honeyed sweetness, canned peaches or apricots, pineapple and a touch of coconut. There is a peppery catch in the late palate that is strikingly reminiscent of Talisker, but this one is absolutely not a maritime style malt – instead it has a fresh barley sugar and orchard fruit crispness. Finish: Medium. Lingering mild fruit, honey and spice notes with a dry tannic wood spice hint in the aftertaste. This is a great base-level offering from a comparatively young distillery. To be honest I’m surprised to find this sort of profile coming from what I assume is a warm-climate distillery, but then I do not know anything about the terroir. Are they located in a temperate micro-climate? It’s a straightforward malt and lacks a little in balance, but there is the undeniable spark of something really fine here. I enjoyed this young whisky – not enough to prompt me to buy a bottle but certainly enough to make me taste further, and I’m glad I did just that! “Above Average” : 82/100 (3.25 stars)

Nose: Lots of sherry right up front and initially it is surprisingly spirity for 43% abv. Allowing the dram to rest and let the ethanol to blow off a little reveals a very sweet nose with fruit cake, beeswax, orange syrup, maple syrup and just a suggestion of mild leathery smoke. It’s pleasant to nose with a rich, plush quality without being a one-note sherry bomb, and the longer you leave it the better the nose becomes. Palate: Soft and fruity with some gently spiced orange oil and mixed citrus peel in the arrival. As it develops more mild spice appears (nutmeg, cinnamon) along with gristy barley-sugar and Seville marmalade. The texture is surprisingly light and lacked heft for my taste – I thought it would have been more interesting if it had a more oily mouth-feel. Finish: Medium. Citrus oil fading to warming but bittersweet chocolate and unsweetened black coffee, with a metallic hint right at the end. There is a reminder of oloroso sherry throughout the profile. The nose is exactly what you would expect with Tomintoul’s gentle, fragrant fruity distillate being aged in good sherry casks, but although it is enjoyable the whole package is a little underwhelming for my taste. I have to say I’m confused about this concept of a “cigar malt” and having now tried such whiskies from several houses (Dalmore, Glenrothes, Tamdhu, Linkwood, Mortlach and now this Tomintoul) the only commonalities I can find are fruity sweetness, sherried maturation and an attempt to emulate cognac. Which makes me ask the question – why not forget whisky and just pair a cigar with a fine cognac as the Good Lord intended we should? Anyway, this is a good malt overall, not a fantastic one but certainly better than just “above average” so it rates a solid descriptor of “good” from me. However, if only the mouth-feel had more density and presence I’d bump my score up by half a star. “Good” : 83/100 (3.5 stars)

Waterford Tasting, The Oak Barrel, Sydney, November 27th 2023, Whisky #7 Nose: Pie crust, apples, vanilla egg custard, malted barley. I could swear there is the faintest possible hint of smoke. Palate: Soft unctious arrival turning sharper and just a touch peppery as it develops. Gristy cereal, freshly baked scones, baking spices. Stewed and fresh orchard fruits in the development. Very well integrated. Over time the palate relaxes and gains softness towards the finish. The texture is oily. Finish: Medium/long. Mildly spiced cereals and faint sweet apple. A satisfying and harmonious whisky that has received polarising reviews, and I can’t understand why. It’s a 4 year old expression (and a very good one) that shows integration, length and complexity. Yes, I think some if not most of the single farm varietals from Waterford show more defined character, but this really does drink like a well composed cuvee. I’m dropping my rating by 1 percentage point now that I have tasted this in the context of a wider range of Waterford whiskies, but it is still impressive and I bought a bottle on the night. “Very Good” : 86/100 (4 stars) --------------------------------------------------------------- Sydney Whisky Show May 20th 2023. Whisky #26 Nose: Apple pie with custard sauce and vanilla ice cream. Cherry nougat, honey, caramel and malted milk. There is a tiny note of brine, orange essence and some fresh mixed herbs. Palate: Soft, plush, creamy arrival with lots of baking spices and flavours centred on barley and malt with toasted muesli, hot spice cookies and porridge with butter, salt and brown sugar (the only way to eat it!). In the development a more complex array of subtle spice emerges together with some soft orchard fruit flavours. It displays excellent balance and complexity and despite the richness of the palate it retains a certain zesty, crisp green apple quality. The texture is oily and mouth-coating. Finish: Medium. Very much an extension and finale to the palate with fruit and spice supporting grain flavours. There was minor controversy around this expression when it was released as it seemed to fly in the face of Waterford’s previous staunch support of single farm origin whiskies. Maybe this was the plan all along, or maybe it was a change demanded by market research. Who knows? Who cares? The whiskey has garnered widely varying critiques but I wonder at the reasons for some reactions. The dram in the glass is all that counts and I put my faith in my own taste buds and initial impressions, both of which tell me that this is one of the most complete and accessible Waterfords I’ve tasted, while retaining the distillery’s signature clean, crisp and elegant distillate. “Very Good” : 87/100 (4.25 stars)

Waterford Tasting, The Oak Barrel, Sydney, November 27th 2023, Whisky #3 My notes on this whisky from the tasting evening are almost identical to the notes I made at the Sydney Whisky Show earlier in the year (see below) so I won't repeat them. I did, however, think that when tasted in the context of a wider range of Waterford whiskies this was worth a slightly higher rating than I originally gave, so I'm increasing it by one point. "Very Good" : 85/100 (4 stars) ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Sydney Whisky Show May 20th 2023. Whisky #25 Nose: Freshly baked pear tart, lemon, pineapple, cottage cheese. Later it develops faint white wine aromas and a fragrance like white bread rolls that are baking but not quite done. Palate: Honey, orange water, baked pear and apple with cinnamon and clove. White bread dipped in salted sunflower oil. The texture is big, fat and oily which is agreeable in tandem with its generally bright but soft flavours. It’s slightly reminiscent of Irish pot-still whiskey, but more elegant. Finish: Medium: Cereals, orchard fruit, chocolate and a dusting of powdered ginger, clove and cinnamon. A good whisky that bears a resemblance to Waterford Gaia, but I think this is a little more interesting and complete. “Good” : 84/100 (3.75 stars)

Waterford Tasting, The Oak Barrel, Sydney, November 27th 2023, Whisky #1 Nose: rich, soft, mellow barley. There are fruity notes but these are not “orchard” or “citrus” in character, instead there is a clear impression that these fruity aromas are cereal-derived. There is a buttery quality but also a crispness. It is very well integrated and reminiscent of the nose on a big chardonnay. There is no sign whatsoever of woody notes. Palate: The arrival is entirely cereal in profile and has an almost sparkling, effervescent quality. There is some bright ginger spice that is glittering and “precise” but the personality of this whisky is 100% centred on fresh, crisp barley. The texture is wonderfully oily. Finish: Medium. Crisp cereal with a creamy aftertaste. This was my first chance to taste this whisky since the Whisky Show in May this year, and it was great to have a chance to sit down and focus on the dram in a more relaxed situation. Looking at my previous notes (see below) I had very much the same impressions as before, but I was just a fraction less impressed and I'm decreasing my rating by 1 percentage point. It’s not that this is sub-standard in any way (far from it!) it was just overshadowed by the other four unpeated Waterford whiskies on show, and as I had clear ratings in mind for them, this needed to move down a slot. “Good” : 84/100 (3.75 stars) ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- Sydney Whisky Show May 20th 2023. Whisky #24 Nose: Sweet, freshly mown hay, orchard fruit, muesli (not toasted, the type with raw oats). As it evolves in the glass there is a butter-sugar roux aroma. Palate: Sweet and spicy arrival with ginger, sweet grapefruit, stewed rhubarb, lemon custard with a little clove, white pepper and some spritzy white wine flavours (in some ways the palate reminds me of a young un-oaked chardonnay). The texture is creamy and just a little oily. Towards the finish there is a nutty flavor (almonds, walnuts) and fresh white bread rolls. Finish: Medium/Long: Spicy (ginger, nutmeg, allspice), grape must, light tobacco and a drop of eucalyptus. I’ve been remiss in writing tasting notes recently, so I’m scrambling here to catch up on my Sydney Whisky Show tastings from back in May. Two more Waterford reviews will follow. This Waterford expression is part of the Arcadian series and was matured for 4 years in a variety of casks. It shows all the positive notes of youthful whisky without being dragged down by any particular faults. The nose is complex and very “crisp” while on the mouth it initially follows suit but then develops even greater depth and a more enveloping, rich quality. It’s very much an exploration into the many facets of malted barley, as highlighted by fresh young oak casks without those casks imposing lumpen vanilla notes. “Very Good” : 85/100 (4 stars)

Nose: Gentle, soft smoke that is half-way between peat-reek and a bonfire of burning leaves, grass clippings and heather from a flower garden. It has notes of vanilla, honey, steamed asparagus and demure citrus fruit and there is a touch of maritime brine to the nose as well. Overall it is reminiscent of Highland Park crossed with Old Pulteney and it’s fresh, light and very agreeable. Palate: Maritime salt up front with vegetal and herbal flavours supported by light smoke. As it develops some sweetness emerges but it’s not sugary, instead it has the sweet/sour taste of baked cereals (rye bread? pumpernickel?) with a touch of molasses balanced by artichoke brine and black pepper. It’s earthy in character but there is also an intriguing tannic red wine note – just a hint – drifting about. The texture is pleasant but not particularly creamy or full. Finish: Medium. Malt, cereal, cracked black pepper and barley sugar with a zephyr of peat smoke in the aftertaste along with some brisk, drying tannins. A very pleasant and well-balanced malt whisky. It is youthful but in no way faulty or inferior because of that. It reminds me of many other maritime, mildly smoky young whiskies. This release was a blend of peated and unpeated malts from Raasay, each of which was matured in a combination of three casks. The wood selection was excellently chosen and has produced a young whisky that has a coquettish flair and just enough cask influence. You certainly could not say this is cask dominated or even cask driven, as the distillate character shines through clearly. It also develops in the glass, starting out very crisp but developing depth and complexity as it rests. It’s delightful neat but in the interests of science I added a dash of water to the dram. This flattened the nose quite a bit (which is not unusual for a young peated whisky) and brought out more sweetness while rounding off the peppery spices. It was interesting to try it that way, and arguably it makes the whisky easier to enjoy, but I thought it lost something in the process. I’m mentally adding Isle of Raasay to my growing list of new Scottish distilleries to follow and sample regularly in future. “Good” : 84/100 (3.75 stars)

Nose: A weak aroma of generic scotch whisky. Traces of cereal, honey and fruit but it is exceptionally light and weak. Palate: Diluted notes of cereal, honey and vanilla. It quickly gains a hot, peppery quality but there is a foundation white-sugar sweetness. Finish: Very Short. Virtually non-existent. 15 seconds after tasting this there is nothing at all left on the palate. This is one of the weakest, most insipid blended scotches I’ve tasted. The only thing in its favour is that it does not have any outstanding faults. There is simply nothing happening here at all and it is unbelievably boring to taste neat. It’s hard to believe that there is any malt whisky in this blend at all as it tastes very much like a bottom-grade 3 year old grain whisky. In Coke or dry ginger ale it adds a ghostly echo of scotch, and that’s about it. I recently re-reviewed Johnnie Walker Black Label and gave it the rather damning rating of 1.5. This is worse. Don’t waste your money. “Poor” : 60/100 (1 star)

Originally reviewed on January 20, 2021 on a different listing. Review moved to this listing August 21, 2023. Whisky Tasting : The Oak Barrel, Sydney, 19 January 2021. Whisky #4 Nose: A full, richly sweet initial nose. Over-ripe tropical fruit, stewed stone-fruits, sherry, golden syrup. There is an aroma of oak cask which is neither the pencil-shavings of a young cask nor the smell of an old one. It’s a pleasantly fresh oak quality but there is just a trace of wet cardboard. Palate: Oily and sweet arrival with big stewed fruit flavours. A similar theme to the nose with an added spice component – ginger, hot cinnamon, dried orange rind, a pinch of chilli – but it’s not objectionably hot. There are some drying tannins and the same odd cardboard note apparent on the nose is present. Finish: Medium/long. Warming, tannic, spicy. A big, expressive whisky that is just a fraction too hot and tight to be enjoyable at cask strength. I thought it was greatly improved by a dash of water and really woke up when reduced to around 50% abv. This seemed to revive a lot of slumbering youthful aromas and flavours. The only fault I found was the curious wet cardboard or chipboard presence. It’s not intense enough to be intrusive, but you definitely sense it lurking about. I’m uncertain of its origin but it’s probably from one of the casks as it was not quite the same as the feinty note you get from a cut that was too wide. This expression was the result of a collaboration between The Oak Barrel in Sydney and New World Distillers in Melbourne and was unofficially dubbed the “Smoke & Mirrors” bottling (this is apparently a slang term at the distillery for a weird-and-wonderful experimental vatting). It was a combination of five small sherry casks. Two were first-fill ex-apera (Australian sherry) quarter casks that were just on 5 years old. Two more were second-fill ex-apera quarter casks that had matured for 9 years, and the last was an ex-PX sherry quarter cask that was just over 10 years old. In the Melbourne climate the influence of these small 50 litre casks would have been quite intense – probably the equivalent of twice the maturation time in Scotland. The quarter casks were vatted into barrel #109, a 200 litre ex-sherry barrel, and married for 8 months. An interesting whisky. “Good” : 83/100 (3.5 stars)

Nose: Sweet fresh-mown hay, sugar-frosted corn flakes, peach and apricot nectar, green apple skins. It’s a very fruity nose enlivened by a cereal aroma foundation. Palate: Sweet arrival all on barley-sugar and stone fruits. Some mellow spices in the development with a little zesty and warming cinnamon. The texture is full and rounded. Finish: Medium/long. Some malty, ale-like notes appear towards the end with a slight sourness. This sour quality throws the balance off a little. Glentauchers is owned by Pernod Ricard and along with whiskies from Miltonduff and Glenburgie it is one of the central malts used for the Ballantine’s range of blended scotch. Like its stablemates, Glentauchers is a sweet, grassy, estery malt and the blended output from the three distilleries is one of the reasons behind the high degree of consistency in the Ballantines scotches. You don’t get it so much in Ballantine’s Finest, but from Ballantine’s 12 year old and up you definitely sense the presence of these classic sweet Speyside distillates. In 2017 the company released a set of three 15 year old single malts, one from each of the distilleries. Since then they have released similar sets for whisky clubs, liquor shops etc worldwide. The Whisky Club (Australia) bought such a parcel of malts in mid 2022 and released them over the next 12 months. I only bothered to buy this one, knowing from past experience with the distilleries that, well, if you’ve tasted one then you’ve tasted them all (unless as an IB expression with a fancy finish). This is a pleasant single malt, very sweet and inviting on both nose and palate with just enough depth to make it interesting. It is marred slightly in the finish which is OK on the first sip but develops a sour lactic quality with each subsequent taste, so by the end of a dram you’re sort of glad it’s finished. Still, I've almost polished off the bottle and I enjoyed it. “Good” : 83/100 (3.5 stars)