Tastes
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Highland Park Valkyrie
Single Malt — Islands, Scotland
Reviewed July 31, 2022 (edited October 6, 2022)Nose: Oloroso sherry, maritime brine, fresh-cut hay, demerara sugar, cardamom, cumin, ginger, fenugreek, cinnamon and mint. There is a smoky note but it is initially hidden by a spirity, ethanol presence. This dissipates fairly quickly resulting in a sweet nose, but it’s spicy sweet and the signature Highland Park orange aromas are missing in action. The addition of water evolves more herbal notes. Palate: A spicy, briny arrival with tannins, ginger and pepper being prominent. Salt-water taffy, marmalade and currents in the development. The texture is full, a little drying but oily. The smoke notes begin in the early development and are quite prominent. A dash of water softens the palate and brings out further vegetal and herbal notes but also finds otherwise hidden orange liqueur flavours. Water also modulates the texture and profile making the whisky creamier and sweeter. Finish: Medium/long. Herbal, smoky, woody and spicy with soft tannins in the aftertaste. Water makes the finish softer and sweeter. A big whisky to finish today’s lineup of six Highland Parks, but for me this was the least impressive of the bunch. It’s certainly a demonstrative whisky but I felt it exchanged the nuance and fruity juiciness common to all the other expressions for rather ordinary spice notes, and consequently it seems a little simplistic and inferior in profile. This was the only whisky of the day where I felt water was required, and in my opinion the dram was much improved by dilution. It’s by no means a bad whisky, in fact it is a good one, but not one that is to my taste and I would not want to buy a bottle. I also found the official tasting notes curious and very different to my experience (for what that’s worth). Tasted from a 30ml sample. “Good” : 83/100 (3.5 stars)140.0 AUD per Bottle -
Highland Park 18 Year Viking Pride
Single Malt — Islands, Scotland
Reviewed July 30, 2022 (edited February 12, 2023)Nose: An excellently subtle amalgam of honey, sherry and mild sooty smoke. Vanilla and sherry oak cask in the background but neither is too forward, the sweet top notes being allowed to sing without interruption. Dried fruits, malt and a dash of orange liqueur that grows in intensity over time. Fragrant, heady floral tones. This is lovely – I could nose it all day and it just gets better with time. Palate: Sweet, full and rich on the arrival with notes of old orange liqueur, cherries and well-controlled preserved ginger in syrup. Luscious, decadent but elegant. Honey, barley sugar, vanilla nougat, chocolate, butterscotch and sherry balanced by a touch of peat, salt and pepper. The texture is creamy, enveloping and mouth-watering. Finish: Medium. Rich malt, a little smoke and brine, and orange nectar fading into a milk chocolate aftertaste. A lovely whisky. Excellently balanced, complete and very, very satisfying. It’s a while since I tasted an old Highland Park. Silly me. So, is this as good as previous expressions of the 18 year old – that’s the obvious question. Well, yes – pretty much. I’m going from memory and my old tasting notes here, but IMHO it is very close and although the profile has changed it has not lost quality. I don’t believe there was any change of the blending recipe for this single malt when the bottle design changed, and any detectable differences are just down to batch-drift and changes in cask supply. I think it used to have a more obvious and sophisticated sherry component but that has been replaced by a succulent orange-centred fruit character which is very compelling, and I have no complaints. Tasted from a 30ml sample. Bottle ordered (it is worth the money and still one of my favourite whiskies for that desert island). “Excellent” : 88/100 (4.5 stars)250.0 AUD per Bottle -
Highland Park 15 Year Viking Heart
Single Malt — Islands, Scotland
Reviewed July 30, 2022 (edited March 2, 2023)Nose: Maritime aromas of brine, shellfish and pebble beach lead the nose, backed by lemon zest, heather honey, apricot, grilled pineapple and a little sooty smoke. It’s a fresh, coastal nose given depth by honeyed sweet aromas and a subtle hint of oloroso sherry that contributes a balancing dry character. The nose gains depth over time but not great complexity, instead remaining fresh, crisp and coastal, but aromas of good oak cask do become obvious. Palate: Firm, sweet and gently spicy arrival centered on ginger, marmalade and dark chocolate-coated toffee. The smoke is definitely there but it is restrained at first, only building on subsequent tastes. Tropical and citrus fruit, mixed nuts, and a light hint of spice in the development. Like the nose the sherry cask contribution to the palate is very calm and controlled and the texture is delightfully creamy with good weight. Finish: Medium. Cocoa, coffee and a touch of sweet and briny smoke. A classic Highland Park nose that is reminiscent of the best aspects of the old 10 year expression but with more maturity and balance. The cask selection was very good and the oak has contributed a hidden strength of character to the profile. It is also perfect at the bottling strength of 44%. I did not add any water and I see no reason to do so. This is a very good whisky, and the best of the four Highland Park expressions I’ve tasted so far today. It starts out as a good but somewhat unassuming whisky but with time in the glass it grows in stature, and by the time the dram was finished I wished I could have poured myself another. Recommended. Tasted from a 30ml sample, bottle ordered. “Very Good” : 87/100 (4.25 stars)199.0 AUD per Bottle -
Highland Park Dragon Legend
Single Malt — Islands, Scotland
Reviewed July 30, 2022 (edited August 1, 2022)Nose: Spirity, sweaty, nutty, autumn leaves, Darjeeling tea, dried apple, herbal potpourri, humus, damp moss and sweetly decaying tree-stumps. Sherry and very light peat smoke. Primarily a grassy, herbaceous nose with sweet overtones. Palate: Sweet malt and black tea in the arrival with a definite smoke presence (more obvious than on the nose). The peat smoke builds a little in the development with salted plums, ginger chunks in syrup, dried dates and lemon preserved in olive oil. There is a progression to dryness through the palate with leathery brine notes appearing but sweetness remains apparent throughout. The texture is full and creamy. Finish: Medium. The palate is drying, but also has sweet smoky malt notes and grassy cereal. This is the 3rd of a flight of 6 Highland Park whiskies that I’m tasting today, and it is the first to show a definite sherry influence. However this is no sherry-monster but rather presents a crisp leafy-walnut skin character and indicates either second-fill or very lightly seasoned first-fill oloroso casks. In many ways it is the complimentary whisky to the Spirit of the Bear expression, with a sherry casking focus rather than ex-bourbon. The nose develops given some time in the glass as its initial shyness is overcome. The palate is good, it lacks a little in complexity and is a touch on the watery side but not enough to spoil the experience – it’s dry finish saves it. However this is obviously quite young whisky. I seldom say this but here is one whisky I would like to see at slightly higher proof. I think this young lightly-sherried profile would be very good indeed at 48% where the thin, almost watery body would be filled-out by a more intense presence. This is the least impressive of the three drams I’ve had so far today, but we’re still talking low 80s for the score, which isn’t shabby at all, and at the asking price it’s good value. Tasted from a 30ml sample. “Good” : 83/100 (3.5 stars)100.0 AUD per Bottle -
Highland Park Wings of the Eagle 16 Year
Single Malt — Islands, Scotland
Reviewed July 30, 2022 (edited August 3, 2022)Nose: Sweet orange, vanilla, sherry, apricot and a subtle hint of smoke in the background. There are touches of cinnamon, nutmeg and honeysuckle and as it rests and gains body, soft wood and leather notes arise. A lovely Highland Park nose with a fleeting smoke presence and a simple but refined character. Palate: Sweet and gentle arrival centred on honey-drizzled slices of grilled orange, apricot and peach. It gains excellent spice tones as it develops with sweeter and heavier flavours emerging - caramel, grape jelly, red berry jam and mild ginger chunks in syrup. The texture is buttery, slightly oily and very satisfying. Finish: Medium/long. Warm and gradually transitioning to a drier character with delicate oak, smoke and salt notes. There is a subtle chocolate aftertaste that lingers. A mild-mannered dram, very pleasant to drink but lacking a little in complexity when compared to the 15 year old from a few years back (in the pre-Viking livery bottles). The sherry presence is muted here while the bourbon cask influence is particularly apparent. This has good body and texture, and its maturity shows through in the well integrated profile. It has a completeness and good balance, but I can’t escape the feeling that overall it presents more like a 12 year old whisky than a 16 year old. This is the 2nd of 6 Highland Parks I’m tasting today, and in comparison to the “Spirit of the Bear” I tasted first this has more depth and authority, but is otherwise surprisingly similar. It’s certainly a better whisky, but is it worth paying 50% more? Let’s just say I immediately bought a bottle of Spirit of the Bear, but as good as it is I’m probably not ordering this one. Tasted from a 30ml sample. “Very Good” : 85/100 (4 stars)175.0 USD per Bottle -
Highland Park Spirit of the Bear
Single Malt — Islands, Scotland
Reviewed July 30, 2022 (edited July 31, 2022)Nose: Lightly fragrant with heather honey, citrus (grapefruit), a hint of vanilla and restrained coastal minerality being the dominant aromas. It’s a very restful and demure nose with a fresh character and it’s instantly recognisable as Highland Park. The tiniest wisp of smoke is detected but it’s barely (ha, ha) noticeable. Over time as it rests the nose develops in the glass, gaining depth and texture. Palate: Sweet, soft, mild malt arrival with citrus overtones. The development shows delicate white pepper and ginger, growing subtle smokiness and crisp acidity, but it remains gentle and highly approachable at all times. The texture is pleasant and just a little creamy. Finish: Medium. The soft, sweet palate subsides into a drier, herbal aftertaste with a little bitter orange and a pinch of salt. A delicious and eminently approachable everyday dram, this would be a very good session whisky. It shows its youth but it is not callow or under-matured in any way and the balance between distillate and cask influence is perfect. I can imagine people criticizing this for only being 40% and a NAS but those are not issues for me. It’s a friendly malt that would be appreciated by novices and enthusiasts alike and I finished my dram without even thinking to add any water. The box bears the words “smoky and bold”. No, it’s not, and I can’t imagine why they decided to label it that way. Maybe because it was a TRE release and therefore aimed at non enthusiasts? Who knows, but it gives a misleading impression. This should have been described as “light and sweetly smoky”. The smoke note does, however, grow with repeated sips. This is the first of a flight of six Highland Park whiskies that I’m tasting today. It’s been a while since I tried anything from this distillery so time to remedy that. Tasted from a 30ml sample, and I enjoyed it so much I just ordered a bottle. “Good” : 84/100 (3.75 stars)120.0 AUD per Bottle -
Bladnoch 11 Year (2021 Release)
Single Malt — Lowlands, Scotland
Reviewed July 28, 2022 (edited September 18, 2022)This bottle from lot L21-6121 076 Nose: Grass clippings, wet hay, asparagus, lemongrass, grapefruit, kiwifruit, mustard, freshly sawn pinewood. If allowed to rest in a covered glass for some time it develops notes of honeysuckle and pear. Water softens the nose and creates a sweeter smelling profile. Palate: The arrival is full of herbal/vegetal notes with some mild bitter spiciness, but it is unusual in character (see below). Kiwifruit, white grape juice, dandelion root, cardboard and oatmeal in the development. The mouth-feel is pleasant, slightly oily and with good weight. Finish: Medium. Sharp citrus, then fading to grassy astringency. A dash of water softens the palate and finish, and I thought this whisky was much better after diluting it. An unusual profile that is herbaceous in the broadest sense, but that term does not adequately describe this whisky. It is not herbal in the same manner as most other whiskies that are so described, and perhaps “soft green plant-like” is a more accurate (if clumsy) descriptor. On the nose I get sharp, citric and spicy herbal tones such as lemongrass and mustard, but the palate is where it becomes very unusual. I tasted rocket (you might know it as rucola or arugula), mustard cress, dill weed, yellow dock and purslane – all pungent, sharp tasting green plants. There was a presence of sulphurous boiled vegetables as well - cabbage, brussels sprouts and asparagus. These unusual vegetal notes contrast with the citric facets of the whisky and the whole is set against some very fresh smelling wood with a resinous quality. I did notice a significant change as the level in the bottle decreased. The whisky became softer with oxidisation, developed more honey notes in both nose and palate, and the brighter vegetative qualities diminished. It is an interesting whisky, but as you have probably gathered highly individual and I think it would either appeal or repulse depending on the aroma and flavour associations it calls to your mind. It is certainly thought-provoking and drew me back for repeated nosing and tastes in attempt to unravel it, but it wasn’t until it had been open for several weeks and the level was down past half way that I began to really enjoy it. Initially I would have rated it as 80/100 at most but with time it achieved a better score. “Good” : 83/100 (3.5 stars)105.0 AUD per Bottle -
Nose: Toffee, cornflakes, freshly sawn wood, vanilla, green apples, a suggestion of maritime aromas, some honey and flinty mineral notes. It’s a young cereal-focused profile that is dominated by young casks (but admittedly good ones). It's a bit tight when neat but adding water eases the nose and releases barley sugar, more honey and some light floral aromas while muting the mineral notes. The nose recomposes very well after dilution, gaining an oily quality. Palate: Spicy entry with hot ginger, hot cinnamon and chilli. The development is thin and sharp with bright gristy cereal, a touch of coconut and tart citrus flavours. There is a little salt and the texture is watery, almost like dilute seawater, but also oddly waxy. Adding water improves the palate enormously. The hot flavours are gentled, the cereal turns to sweet malt and the tart citrus turns to semi-sweet orange. The mouthfeel is very much improved, losing the thin quality and gaining a creamy depth. Finish: Short. Drying, mineralic, metallic (coppery) and slightly sour in the aftertaste. However, once again water works miracles, almost banishing the hard notes (by balancing them with sweetness) and adding length. A little of the familiar Tobermory milk chocolate is even detected on the aftertaste now. This bears some resemblance to the old 10 year expression but whereas that whisky succeeded by virtue of its delicate and slightly maritime character this is rougher, less attractive and does not bloom until diluted. As a neat dram the nose is pleasant, and the standout feature, but the palate has some odd qualities. However water transforms this whisky from an ugly ducking into a graceful swan. If you have only tasted it neat and previously dismissed it then I'd urge you go back and try it again with a generous dash of water. You will be surprised how much it is improved. I was about to rate this at 75 until I added water ... doing so takes it up to 82. Tasted from a 30ml sample that was taken from a 2019 bottling. “Above Average” : 82/100 (3.25 stars)110.0 AUD per Bottle
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Nose: A carton of Cadbury’s Old Gold Fruit ‘n Nut Dark Chocolate bars (you have to be an Aussie – sorry) that have been stored in an ex-sherry barrel for about 10 years. I can’t explain it better. Raisins, dried figs, fortified wine, marzipan, leather sports car seats (the interior of a 1960's Jaguar), pipe tobacco, orange zest, mint. A huge nose with a profile that brings armagnac to mind. Water highlights some orange notes but mutes the whole performance. There is an unmistakable aroma of sulphur and it’s right on the cusp between fragrant, almost like sandalwood, and stinky rubber. Water softens it pleasantly. Palate: Big, sweet arrival full of chocolate and Christmas cake. In the development it seems to turn astringent for a moment but it’s just the tannins from big sherry casks kicking in. The apparent bitterness passes immediately leaving a firm, grippy oak foundation with espresso, muscat, mint, fennel and cointreau notes. The texture is excellent, this whisky has been composed to be correct when neat but it will take water gracefully. As with the nose there is a definite sulphur note on the palate but it’s just below the threshold of annoyance. Finish: Medium. The palate fades to a sweet finale with raspberry jam, liquorice, orange marmalade and chocolate. Formidable. Such a huge whisky but so very well presented. The abv is perfect and an object lesson in why the idea that every whisky should be bottled at 46% or more just "because" is vacuous. This one is beautifully balanced, mouthwatering, very moreish and requires no dilution – it is right just as it is but if you really want to reduce it you can do so without making it limp. Richard Paterson is a master of the art of blending. Dalmore seems to cop a lot of flak from some quarters for reasons that seem disingenuous to me. It’s an old-fashioned style of sherry monster of a particular type, and this is a very good example at a decent price. “Very Good” : 85/100 (4 stars)150.0 AUD per Bottle
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Tobermory 2007 12 Year Port Pipe Finish
Single Malt — Islands , Scotland
Reviewed July 21, 2022 (edited December 8, 2022)Nose: Engine oil, sulphur (good sulphur), oily malt and herbal tea in the initial nosing, together with a definite alcohol “nip” and a briny, maritime aroma. The port influence is very restrained, even shy, and at first presents more like grape juice or rose-hip tea in the background. Over time the fortified wine influence builds but never to the point of unbalancing the nose. Adding water tends to homogenize the nose at first and although it remains very pleasant, and does recover with time, it loses just a little character in the process. Palate: The arrival is sweet for a second before turning astringent and oaky with ginger, sweet dark berries and big malty flavours. The development brings dried citrus peel, salted preserved lemons and sweet grapefruit, all of which gradually give way to a return of the red berries that are now sweet but tart, like unripe blackberries. The texture is oily and rich. Water does not spoil the palate at all, adding creaminess and a unifying richness. Finish: Long. Spicy, dark chocolate, salt and finally sweet red berries and milk chocolate in the delicious, mouth-watering aftertaste. Another lovely Tobermory with a dirty old-school profile that has been elevated to a high degree of refinement. They keep doing this and are rapidly becoming one of my favourite distilleries. Not that long ago Tobermory was almost an embarrassment but over the last decade their releases have been of a very high standard. The distillery has re-invented itself and we are the ones to benefit. This is a very good malt, and one that deserves long and patient tasting. It is just about unobtainable now and I missed out on a bottle, but fortunately found a sample from a local online whisky merchant. If you do happen to come across a dusty bottle of this on a shelf somewhere do not hesitate to buy it. Tasted from a 30ml sample. “Very Good” : 86/100 (4 stars)199.0 AUD per Bottle
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