Tastes
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BenRiach 2009 11yo Cask #8752 moscatel hogshead
Single Malt — Speyside, Scotland
Reviewed May 27, 2021 (edited May 12, 2022)Nose: Raisins, chocolate fudge, hazelnut nougat, mulled wine, a little warming spice. Palate: Soft arrival with the grape flavours being less intense but sweeter and more white-grape than expected. White stone fruits in the development (apricot, nectarine) and some plums and red currents later. Dark cherries and dates, and a warm spicy side as well. The texture was full, but not creamy. Finish: Long. Grapes, caramel and some toasted walnut and orange liqueur in the aftertaste. This cask was selected specifically for the 2021 Sydney Whisky Show and so it was not part of the distillery's official 2021 Cask Edition series, although it easily could have been. It would have rubbed shoulders with casks #8748 and #8736 (also moscatel hogsheads) in the warehouse, and they were included in the official release (to the Netherlands and New Zealand, respectively). I was a little surprised by the profile (but agreeably so) as I had expected something more like a PX or soft oloroso character, particularly considering that this whisky spent 100% of its time in one ex-moscatel cask. However it turned out to be more akin to bourbon maturation with a white port or even sauternes finish. BenRiach is always a bit weird and wacky to me – in a tasting flight there will inevitably be expressions I can’t stand and others that are immensely impressive. This was one of the good ones, veering towards very good in fact, particularly with regard to the finish, which was excellent. I almost bought a bottle but after consideration decided it was just fraction overpriced and could have done with a few more years in the cask. My tasting #7 at the Sydney Whisky Show, 15th May 2021. “Good” : 84/100 (3.75 stars)175.0 AUD per Bottle -
Nose: Softly malty, shortbread, light fruity aromas, a slightly tingly sweetness like pineapple. Maybe a touch of brine but I did not detect much of a “sea” influence at all. It’s certainly not what I would call “briny” - in fact it’s more “earthy”. It’s an honest, light and well-balanced nose. Palate: Light, sweet malt right from the first drops. Soft and honeyish (but not syrupy) with a creamy texture. The fruity notes from the nose are detected again and there is just a soupçon of brine in the palate (but blink and you will miss it). A hint of pepper flits about the proceedings. Finish: Short. Rather nondescript, really – the palate just fades out, but there is nothing unpleasant. Oh! right at the very end – there’s the brine. Pleasant, clean, straightforward and enjoyable. A decent everyday malt with an age statement and a fair price. This is positioned in competition against blended scotches, and it succeeds in that role. The texture is a little thin but there is really nothing to criticize here. Good session drinking, a good mixer, easy on the pocket and recommended at the price. I was introduced to the Aerstone Land Cask (the peaty version of this) a while ago by a friend who said it was better than the Sea Cask, but having now tasted both I beg to differ. They are absolutely equivalent IMHO, differing only in the presence of smoke in the other expression. The official rating is a bit on the optimistic side, IMHO. Tasted at the Sydney Whisky Show, 15th May 2021 (my whiskey tasting #6) “Average” : 75/100 (2.5 stars)60.0 AUD per Bottle
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Nose: Butterscotch pudding, vanilla, crème caramel, baked banana, cloves. Palate: A sweet and spicy arrival with flavours of wood-shavings in the background. Caramel, vanilla ... mountains of vanilla, bright tannic spices. Dark chocolate, butter and brown sugar. The texture is less oily than I remember from a couple of years back, but still OK. Finish: Medium/short. Spicy/sweet cereal with a mint touch. A little peppery tannin in the background. I enjoyed this single grain whisky the last time I tasted it and again it has not disappointed, but the profile has shifted a little. In previous years it was creamier, more buttery and heavy on the palate. This time round (batch L20 004 016 / April 2020) I noticed more aggressive spice notes and some astringent tannin. However it is still a good dram, and very honest in its presentation (un-coloured, non-chill filtered, 46%). There is a facet to it that is very bourbon-like. Imagine a lean bourbon with a light fruity and woody character. The familiar notes you expect from a bourbon are all there but in a slightly different form. It’s not surprising, therefore, that this is almost addictive when mixed with Coke as a long drink. For those of you who enjoy a bourbon and cola but always find it just a touch too sweet, try this. The tannins and the wine finish balance the sweetness to perfection. When used as a mixer, and in comparison to blended scotch of the same price, I’d rate this as 85/100. However considering it in the broader context I’m giving it slightly less (and the official rating of 92 seems very over the top). This is worth somewhere in the low-to-mid 80s. “Above Average” : 82/100 (3.25 stars)75.0 AUD per Bottle
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Old Pulteney Single Cask #1451 2006 13 year old (Barrel & Batch)
Single Malt — Highlands, Scotland
Reviewed May 24, 2021 (edited May 29, 2021)Nose: Honey, honeysuckle, jasmine, malt extract, sea breeze, toasted cereal, vanilla. Fresh, crisp and uplifting but with considerable depth. An astonishingly good nose for a 13 year old whisky. Palate: A sweet/salt arrival, slightly tangy but soft and centered on cereal and honey. The development displays a tiny hint of smoke and some subtle, warm spice. The balance is wonderful with no one flavour dominating the profile but all the components being focused and distinct. Creamy vanilla, milk chocolate, some sweet orange and just a sprinkle of black pepper towards the finish. The texture is silk and velvet. Finish: Long. Sweet/brine citrus fruit, honey, cereal and berries with the lightest touch of oak in the aftertaste. What an enjoyable dram, and what a testament to simple first-fill bourbon maturation! This was the 5th tasting I had at the Whisky Show and the first that really put a smile on my face. I’ve been a fan of Old Pulteney for a long time – their signature honey and brine profile with its simultaneous sweet and dry character has appealed to me since the moment I first tasted it. The 12 year old was a standby session whisky for me for a long time, and in the recent past they reached two high points with their now legendary 17 and 21 year old expressions, both of which would easily be included in my top 50 whiskies, if I had such a list. Sadly, when the brand was overhauled a few years ago the new range seemed to lose something. While the new expressions are enjoyable they do not have the magic of former times, and although I’ve tasted the whole new core range three times now at events I had not bought any Old Pulteney since 2018. Consequently, I’m delighted to be able to say that this single bourbon-cask (#1451) that was imported to Australia and bottled by the Barrel & Batch Whisky Co-Op is an absolute stunner. It has the depth, complexity and freshness of the old range, and approaches the old 17 year in quality. Just 258 bottles, at the show this was available for $175 but the standard price (exclusively online from Barrel & Batch) is now $199 … and it is worth it. Tasting #5 at the Sydney Whisky Show, 15 May 2021. “Very Good” : 87/100 (4.25 stars)199.0 AUD per Bottle -
Dunedin Double Cask 18 Year
Single Grain — South Island, New Zealand
Reviewed May 23, 2021 (edited October 7, 2022)Nose: Pungent malt extract, rubber tyres, charred wood, dried dates and figs, orange liqueur. Palate: Thin and surprisingly weak on the arrival. A little bitter and over-oaked with a distinct cardboard note. A semi-sweet jam or jelly flavour like cranberries, sweetened sour cherries, dark grapes or raisins. You definitely taste the wine cask. There is some mild spice (ginger, pepper) and a dusky, leafy flavour. The texture is acceptable but a little thin. Finish: Medium/short. Sweet and spicy with oak and a hint of ashen or smokey malt in the aftertaste. The nose is huge with a dense, rich quality but unfortunately it lacks grace. The prominent rubbery aromas approach those of hogo in Jamaican rum and could be described as either “bold” or “clumsy” depending on the individual doing the tasting. It’s not a bad nose, but it’s not elegant by any stretch of the imagination. The palate is less boisterous than the nose but it goes too far in the opposite direction, veering into sweet blandness. The cardboard note is off-putting and suggests an overly wide cut, but I don’t think that is the cause. It’s more likely that the casks are showing lignin breakdown. There is a point at which maturation reaches its apex and a whisky can degrade quickly past that stage. This may have been better if bottled as a 16 year old. Water improved the nose a good deal, muting the rubbery aromas, but it made the palate seem confused and anaemic, which further confirms the over-aged theory. It’s not a bad whisky but an event tasting was enough to convince me that I don’t need a bottle, particularly at the price. Although this is listed as AUD$117 that is for a 500ml bottle and the equivalent for 700ml would be $165. There is an almost endless list of far superior whiskies at that price. My taste #4 at the Sydney Whisky Show, 15 May 2021 “Adequate” : 73/100 (2.25 stars)117.0 AUD per Bottle -
Nose: Preserved stone-fruit in syrup, caramel fudge, dark chocolate covered sultanas, orange peel, powdered dried ginger, honey. Palate: The arrival is sweet and reminiscent of fruit ‘n nut milk chocolate. Malted milk, mocha coffee, vanilla and orchard fruits appear first in the development followed by citrus, warm spice (mild cinnamon, nutmeg and ginger) and a pleasant oak-wood quality. The texture is creamy rather than oily. Finish: Medium/long. Dark chocolate, black coffee, dark fruits and a dash of orange bitters. The nose is more expansive than the younger core-range Glenallachie whiskies and it conveys an immediate impression of age and depth. There is a similarity to the profile of the 12 but this is more relaxed and dignified while retaining its robust Glenallachie character. The palate is likewise more refined and softer, the bitter and intense qualities of the younger expressions having been tamed. The finish carries on this overall impression of maturity. I had both the 12 and 18 year old Glenallachie whiskies when they were first released, but while the contemporary 12 year old seems much the same as the 2018 expression this recent 18 year old is softer and more assured than the original bottling, and altogether improved. It’s a whisky that repays patience and although it takes a while to wake up in the glass the wait is worth it. I’d recommend just a dash of water and letting it sit for at least 10 minutes. As it says in the official Distiller tasting notes this unfurls further fruity notes, and it also intensifies the sherry cask influence. The third whisky I tasted at the Sydney Whisky Show 2021. “Good” : 84/100 (3.75 stars)200.0 AUD per Bottle
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Nose: Elegant. Earthy and malty with dried fruit. Some vanilla and nutty aromas in the background (almond? cashew? Turkish delight?) and supporting notes of cut-grass and wood shavings. Palate: The arrival is sweetly cereal-fruity to start with – oatmeal porridge with butter, dried apples, brown sugar and chocolate flakes. However it quickly develops spice notes, particularly cinnamon, orange zest and lemon-pepper. Cereal flavours appear again as yeasty bread and there are vegetal hints (cabbage water? baked plantain?) and tannic wood spices. There is mild bitterness throughout and particularly towards the finish from the tannins, but it is kept in check. Just. The texture is good with a creamy fullness. Finish: Medium. Dark fruit aftertaste with highlights of bittersweet orange and oak tannin. A satisfying dram, the nose is well-structured and hearty, with an old-school quality. The palate is more complex but it carries this easily, being integrated and well rounded. It’s not an easy-drinking dram but neither is it demanding. It’s a good whisky to sit back and explore but not one that requires your undivided attention. Water enlarges the profile but it also unleashes more spicy notes and loses balance in the process so I wouldn’t advise it. It has lots of flavour, a certain authority of character, and a semi-sweet balance throughout and into the finish. Bitter notes are omnipresent however and for some palates they might be a little intrusive. If the profile was a smidge softer I’d increase the rating to 4/5 but as it stands it’s just a fraction austere for my palate. Tasted at the 2021 Sydney Whisky Festival (tasting number 2 – I started at the Glanallachie table to dial my palate in with a known profile). “Good” : 83/100 (3.5 stars)110.0 AUD per Bottle
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GlenAllachie 9 Year Rye Wood Finish
Single Malt — Speyside, Scotland
Reviewed May 21, 2021 (edited October 5, 2021)Nose: Caramel toffee, lemon curd, Seville oranges and a hint of vanilla and coconut. Palate: The arrival is sweet, mild caramel but as soon as it settles on the tongue the spice notes kick in. Black pepper, cinnamon and clove are obvious, but they are not dominating. As the palate progresses a sweet malty note comes to the front. The texture is fine but unremarkable. Finish: Medium/short. Warmly spicy against a caramel background. A little twist of citrus zest in the aftertaste. This expression seems to have fairly limited release, but if you don’t get the chance to taste it don't fret - you are not missing out on much. It presented as a pretty ordinary dram with not much going on. It’s not unpleasant, although a little spirity on the nose, but it’s just kind of “meh” all-round. It’s also expensive for what it is, both in absolute terms as a 9 year old single malt and even more so when judged in comparison against other single malts of similar or greater age. I can’t imagine anyone wanting to buy a bottle of this unless they are a Glenallachie completionist. It’s not bad as such, but rather generic and the price is about twice as much as it deserves. The official tasting notes here are fair, but I would not rate this at 87/100. I tasted this as a pour at the 2021 Sydney Whisky Show which was held last weekend to coincide with World Whisky Day. It was the first major face-to-face spirits event in Australia for some time and I’ll be posting a few tastings from the show over the coming days. “Average” : 79/100 (2.75 stars)150.0 AUD per Bottle -
Port Charlotte 10 Year
Single Malt — Islay, Scotland
Reviewed May 3, 2021 (edited December 29, 2021)Nose: Fireplace ash, a whiff of sea-spray, sage, mint and a complex melange of lemon aromas not derived from lemon (think lemon verbena, lemon balm and lemongrass). Subtle, light, sprightly and crisp. The peat-smoke character intensifies as it sits and opens. A dash of water releases barley-sugar, earthy notes, sweetness and a definite hint of ex-wine cask that rounds-off the citrus aromas. Palate: Sharp, angular and assertive when neat but not hot or aggressive. Brine and smoked lemon. Lemon pepper. Water considerably softens the profile with tar, ashy smoke and sweet cereal moving forward to balance the salty-lemon flavours. The texture is oily but dry and exquisitely balanced. With time the diluted palate evolves ever greater complexity. Finish: Long. Preserved salted lemons, ash, multi-faceted brush-fire smoke. Lovely stuff. I can sit with a glass of this all night, enjoying the story as it progresses. There is a special quality to this distillate-driven whisky that sets it slightly apart from the peat-smoked expressions from the south-east coast Islay distilleries. Something about Bruichladdich smoke is particularly fresh and delicate whilst simultaneously having an intense purity of profile. They buy their peated malt from Port Ellen, as do almost all the other Islay distilleries, so the individuality is arising elsewhere. It would be from a combination of factors, of course, but I’m sure the complex and highly nuanced wine-cask element in their maturation regime plays a major role. This tasting is from a 2019 batch but the consistently high quality of this whisky is remarkable and any Port Charlotte 10 year old can be taken as typical of the expression. Personally I think the 2016 Port Charlotte 10 year 2nd Limited Edition is yet to be equaled, but this is not far behind and for a core-range product that’s most impressive. Highly recommended. At the price this is a bargain and it should be on every enthusiast’s “to do” list. For enthusiasts of peated whiskies in particular it is a compulsory rite of passage. “Excellent” : 89/100 (4.75 stars)110.0 AUD per Bottle -
Hochstadter's Slow & Low Rock & Rye (84 Proof)
Rye — (BOTTLED IN) Scobeyville, New Jersey, USA
Reviewed May 3, 2021 (edited June 26, 2023)Appearance: Clear amber-gold Aroma: Oak planks, herbal notes, orange oil, aromatic bitters. A pre-mixed whiskey cocktail. It's also oddly reminiscent of young malt whisky that has been matured in resinous first-fill bourbon casks. Flavour & Texture: Spicy-sweet arrival that grows as it sits on the tongue. Herbal, honey-sweet but not cloying. The orange note is prominent on the palate and cuts through any heavy sweetness, eventually dominating the agreeably bittersweet finish. This is an OK whisky-based drink but I don’t think it is accurate to class it as a liqueur. Liqueurs should be able to stand alone as an aperitif or digestif regardless of their use in any other context, and they also customarily have a greater sugar content than is found here. This is more properly classified as a "flavoured whiskey". Whilst this is palatable neat it benefits from being served with a big chunk of ice or a mixer such as dry ginger ale. It's OK but a bit "meh" and I'd never buy a bottle. The official tasting notes are on-target but I don’t think this is worth anything like 88/100. Thanks to @KT66 for the tasting sample “Average” : 76/100 (2.5 stars)60.0 AUD per Bottle
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