Tastes
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Strathmill 1991 21 Year Cask Strength (The Maltman)
Single Malt — Speyside, Scotland
Reviewed September 29, 2018 (edited September 30, 2018)Nose: Clean and refined with an elegant grassy/floral aroma when neat. Over time subtle fruity notes emerge - red apples, rockmelon, and honeysuckle flowers. Further resting develops more honey and a faint touch of leather. Adding water unleashes a hidden barrage of woody notes - sawdust, pencil shavings and oak barrels - together with cloves and stagnant flower-vase water. It also intensifies the leather. An interesting nose. Palate: The nose does not prepare you for the full-frontal assault of the palate. The arrival is balanced but unusual with sweet, astringent, fruity, dry and spicy notes are all competing for attention. In the development it becomes full and rounded, with slightly sour malt, 95% bitter chocolate, oak tannins and hot spiky spices (notably hot English mustard) coming forward. Adding water softens the palate considerably. Finish: Medium. Peppery, slightly sour and finishing dry and bitter (but in a pleasant way). Once watered the finish becomes refreshingly dry and astringent with a touch of ale-like bitterness. When smelled neat the nose on this whisky is mild and reticent, so much so that you'd be forgiven for thinking that it's lacking and weak. However it needs time in the glass and a rest of 20-30 minutes is well worth the wait. As it unfolds the nose gains depth and character and becomes attractively leathery-floral in profile. However it's adding water that really makes this sing, with everything that was previously locked up being released and allowed to bloom. There's an alcohol sting on the palate that makes the hard and spicy profile all the more intense. Water works miracles for this whisky and turns it into a much more interesting and accessible experience that becomes quite compelling as you acquire the taste. I'd strongly recommend a good splash of water and lots of resting time. This is an unusual and demanding malt from a seldom encountered distillery. Distilled in 1991 and matured in a first-fill ex-bourbon cask, it was bottled in 2012 at 50.5% after the angels took a hearty share. It's interesting and I commend it to curious whisky enthusiasts, but I would not recommend it to novices. "Above Average" : 82/100 (3 stars)165.0 AUD per Bottle -
American whiskey tasting evening, Sydney, 21 September 18. Whiskey #5. Nose: Incredibly tight when neat, with an unusual initial aroma akin to the smell of emulsion paint. As it rests and unfolds this falls into place as a firm combination of wood resin, peanuts, buttered popcorn, leather, coconut, cinnamon, clove oil and orange oil together with a completely unexpected aroma of lily-of-the-valley! Water brings out a huge woody note. Palate: A sweet and creamy almost molasses-like arrival that was unexpected after the nose. Spicy and nutty flavours follow with heaps of waxy hot cinnamon and a pervasive background flavour of cooked coconut shavings, like a coconut pastry. A very rye-forward palate, but not a standard one. Finish: Long. Oaky, spicy, notes of vanilla extract and the continuation of the background nutty, coconut and resin character. The finale is quite dry. I found the nose on this to be downright weird at first, but as I got into it the parts of the jigsaw started to fit together and I began to like it, and then the lightbulb came on. For me this bourbon has a hint of hogo that is akin to a Trinidad rum. It's unusual to find in a bourbon and must come from the rye component, but it's quite different to most rye influences. The whiskey has great balance, but it's a balance of uncommon components. The addition of water brought out bready and yeasty flavours that I thought intruded a little on the palate, but it was worth it. The whiskey opens and becomes much more accessible with just a dash of water, or maybe even an ice cube. However you dilute it, I'd suggest letting it sit for a while in the glass to recompose for a while before tasting. A very interesting drop - I don't know that I'd keep it on hand, but it's certainly worth seeking out a taste just for the experience. "Good" : 84/100 (3.75 stars)125.0 AUD per Bottle
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American whiskey tasting evening, Sydney, 21 September 18. Whiskey #4 Nose: Lots of toffee and caramel and a full, hefty oakiness. There's a sweet berry note like cherries or raspberries, and earthy cinnamon spice and ginger, plus and hint of peanut. Water amplifies the woody notes and also brings out brown sugar, pickle water and a slight minty aroma. Palate: A sweet honey/caramel arrival that almost instantly develops into hot cinnamon, black pepper and chilli spice. This persists but over time is tempered by a sweet fruitiness, as of red berries, that enters from the sidelines as it moves towards the finish. Lots of heavy woody favours. Water brings out notes of nuts and vanilla and tempers the heat. Finish: Medium/long. The finish is the conclusion of the palate with nothing new emerging. The final flavours are woody and caramel, and a touch of red berries, but it turns slightly dry right at the end with tannic notes that are quite welcome. This was an appealing whiskey and I returned to it repeatedly throughout the tasting. It held up well against everything but was outclassed by the Woodford Reserve cask strength, which was the final whiskey of the night. Although there is quite a hot kick in the palate I found it to be approachable and not at all overbearing, however water improved the experience by generally softening and loosening the profile which allowed a lot of otherwise hidden aromas and flavours to emerge. I'd recommend a good dash of still water for this one, or even an ice cube and wait until the ice is mostly melted. This expression is available in a myriad forms, as I understand, but the standard stocks in Australia all seem to be the same. The configuration was selected by Rob Samuels, so I guess it's a middle-of-the-road formulation created in bulk for retail outlets. This batch was 55.9% abv, but I have no idea about the stave selection. "Good" : 84/100 (3.75 stars)150.0 AUD per Bottle
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Shackleton Blended Malt
Blended Malt — highlands, Scotland
Reviewed September 27, 2018 (edited November 8, 2020)Nose: A bright, yeasty, cereal nose with notes of green apple, lemon essence, melon, brown sugar, and very faint ginger. There's a micro whiff of smoke, but it's reserved and dainty (you notice it more on the dry glass). Palate: The arrival is lightly sweet and brisk with flavours of melon, white grapes, honey and green apple. A lot of gristy cereal flavours appear as it develops, followed by tastes of light baked goods (brioche, arrowroot biscuits, panettone) and mild ginger spice. The texture is pleasant and lifting, but a little watery, and rather like the texture of a blended scotch. Finish: Short. Light sweet fruit and weak black Darjeeling tea that turns slightly sour, but then back to sweet at the very end. This is a pleasant and easy to drink malt blend with some character but it lacks that certain spark that distinguishes a great whisky. The lightness of body is enjoyable, but very similar to that of a blended scotch. I think the producers sold themselves short and made too many compromises. This should have been composed with a little more personality and then blended with a really fine mature grain whisky, or even just simply bottled at 46 or 48%. Either approach would have resulted in something more interesting (there were two previous Mackinlay's Shackleton expressions which were released at 47.3% - they were considerably more expensive, but very good). I did notice that after being open for a couple of weeks, and with the level down to about 3/4, the whisky had oxidized very gracefully and gained some heft and complexity. I'd recommend opening this, decanting it to oxygenate, re-bottling it and waiting a fortnight before starting to taste. It definitely changes a good deal over time, and for the better. At the asking price it just represents value for money, being competitive against similarly priced blended malts. It has more going on than either Naked Grouse or Monkey Shoulder, but it is but 30% more expensive. Compass Box or the Douglas Laing blends are a better comparison. A few cents from every sale goes to the New Zealand Antarctic Heritage Trust. "Above Average" : 82/100 (3.25 stars)70.0 AUD per Bottle -
Nose: The initial aroma is of resinous lemon-scented smoke with a pungently oily character. It’s distinctive and sharp, with a more bracing quality than other Islay smoky profiles. White pepper, sea-spray and tarry ropes appear in the background. The current bottlings [as at mid-2019] also have a more citrus-forward profile than previous batches. Palate: The arrival is all oily smoke, sour peat water, brine and lemon zest. However as bright as it is there is a balancing depth and sweetness, but it’s a slightly astringent sweet taste rather than a thick vanilla sweetness (although there is a touch of vanilla there as well). As it develops you notice heavier components in the background that lend thickness to the texture – caramel, smoky tea, roasted almonds, pine-tree resin and licorice. These supporting flavours all have a thread of subtle salt running through them which adds a dryness to the spirit. This perfectly balances the sweet/sour citrus and tarry smoke. Balance is the keyword here, and it’s what makes the palate of this highly distillate-driven expression so very good. Finish: Long. Smoky, nutty and lemon hints, all fading to a very slightly sweet finale. There are some whiskies that, as soon as you sniff them after having not had one for a while, bring a smile to the face and thoughts of “why did I wait so long to come home?”. Ardbeg 10 is one such whisky, and to my mind recent batches have been particularly good. There is a special quality to the smoky component in Ardbeg that calls to mind the scent of a forest where a fire has recently passed through, followed by heavy rain. It’s that wet, pungent aroma of dead fire and ash without the choking hot cloud of the smoke itself. It’s similar to the smell of a cold peat-kiln or fireplace, or the ash-box of a steam engine. Smoky but austere and calm. Everything in the Ardbeg line is worth trying but the core 10 year expression has great balance and integration. It’s also consistent and good value. This is one of the standout whiskies produced from the triumvirate of distilleries that nest along the south-east coast of Islay. “Very Good” : 87/100 (4.25 stars)80.0 AUD per Bottle
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Woodford Reserve Master's Collection Batch Proof 125.8
Bourbon — Kentucky, USA
Reviewed September 24, 2018 (edited April 9, 2022)American whiskey tasting evening, Sydney, 21 September 18. Whiskey #6 Nose: Rich woody aromas of many types – sawn planks, waxed floorboards, old sideboards, charred barrel staves, hazelnuts, walnuts, etc. Behind this oak-forward profile there are scents of orange flowers and zest, vanilla extract, raisins, Jersey caramels, bananas, tobacco, desiccated coconut and cinnamon. The addition of water brings out a slight minty and menthol hint and opens the nose considerably. Palate: The arrival is massive and richly semi-sweet like a mouthful of stewed prunes and apricots soaked in high-proof alcohol. This is balanced by a tannic dryness that is just enough to prevent the palate from becoming cloying or one-note sweet, and by an intense, but not unpleasant, alcohol heat. There is also a combination of sugary flavours - brown sugar, maple syrup, treacle, toffee and fruit preserves. As it develops the profile becomes drier with dark chocolate and dried figs appearing alongside warm spicy notes of cinnamon and nutmeg. The overall impression is of dark Christmas pudding flambéed with bourbon. Finish: Long. Astonishingly long. Sweet and leathery, the full mélange of flavours from the palate slowly fades away. I was still tasting a memory of this literally hours later. For my 300th Distiller review I was going to rate an iconic scotch single malt, however after tasting this excellent Woodford Reserve at the whisky night I attended last Friday I decided it had to be the subject, as it is one of the best bourbons I have encountered. I do usually prefer scotch whisky to bourbon so you have to bear in mind that my opinion will always be influenced by that preference. In this case there is something about this whiskey that is reminiscent to me of an old cask-strength Speysider. It is a classic bourbon, by which I mean there are no outré aromas or flavours, no fancy finishes and nothing unexpected. What makes it special is the depth and intensity of its character, with manifold layers being conveyed by the high proof, and its exquisite balance. It is, quite simply, a particularly well-made whiskey at cask strength. However, although its powerful profile can be enjoyed neat, in my opinion water is necessary to allow full appreciation of its complexities. The high alcohol volume locks up the character as tightly as a pirate’s buried treasure, so although it is interesting neat it is also unrelenting and hard to penetrate. Dilution makes it a much more enjoyable and rewarding experience. Fortunately, this spirit can swim like an orca. Just a few drops of water lifts the blanket of alcohol and releases more aromatic fruitiness and fragrant oak. This process continues as more water is gradually added - I eventually took it down to under 40% and it was still massive, flavourful and continuing to open. It’s length and staying power are considerable, but perhaps the most outstanding aspect of this bourbon for me is its dynamic personality. The other spirits that were tried on the night seemed small, limited, easy and two-dimensional in comparison. They were still and quiet – unmoving and passive, whereas the Woodford Reserve seemed to be almost alive in the glass, breathing, constantly evolving and challenging the taste buds. A highly recommended whiskey, and even at the relatively expensive price I’d call it value for money. I was very pleased to be able to acquire a bottle. “Excellent” : 89/100 (4.75 stars)225.0 AUD per Bottle -
Breckenridge Distillers High Proof Blend
Bourbon — Colorado, USA
Reviewed September 23, 2018 (edited June 12, 2019)American whiskey tasting evening, Sydney, 21 September 18. Whiskey #3 Nose: Oak, caramel toffee, treacle, raisins, soft musk – a powerfully hefty and fragrant nose. There’s a thread of resinous honey that keeps surfacing and just a hint of wintergreen. Very nice. Palate: A warm, sweet and spicy arrival that has a powerful heat from the spices, tannins and alcohol. However, it never veers towards being burning. As it develops, a lot of deep fruity flavours appear – plums, dates, raisins and currents – and a nice vanilla note becomes apparent. The addition of water brings out some orange but also makes the palate a little flat. The high proof is carrying all the flavor and once it is diluted even a little it loses its punch. Not that the flavor changes that much, it just loses heft, and you miss it. I recommend taking this one neat. Finish: Medium/long. There is a rich but soft sweet-spice character that slowly fades away. This is a well-made, pleasant whiskey. I’m not exactly sure what “blended” means in this case, but I believe it is a re-racked bourbon finished in port casks, and you can certainly sense the presence of a wine cask at play. There is a buttery, fruity quality to it and it is very smooth, but certainly not lacking character. This particular whiskey was not available for purchase on the night as the bottle was donated by a friend of the tasting presenter. It seems to sell for around US$60 which means it would probably be about AUS$120 and at that price it is OK value, but outclassed by other similarly priced bourbons. “Above Average” : 82/100 (3.25 stars)60.0 USD per Bottle -
Black Maple Hill Straight Rye
Rye — Oregon, USA
Reviewed September 23, 2018 (edited February 21, 2020)American whiskey tasting evening, Sydney, 21 September 18. Whiskey #2 Nose: Bright gingery spices and a musky syrup note. A hint of leather and pepper. Palate: Dry molasses and spices – powdered ginger, nutmeg, paprika and clove. Quite a forceful arrival, a little thin but not particularly hot. In the background, when tasted neat, there was a combination of herbs, brine, pickles and cheese – a bit like spiced feta. Not disagreeable, but a bit weird. The addition of a little water smoothed and developed the palate remarkably by developing some sweetness to balance the pickles. Finish: Medium. Dusty and woody spices. Overall this whiskey had a warming character rather than a hot one. The texture, although a little thin, was chewy and satisfying. The main problem I had with it was how it collapsed quickly in the glass. You encounter this sometimes – a whisky will be OK on first nosing but when you leave it to develop in the glass instead of improving it goes downhill. In this case when neat the nose seemed to close down and lose impact over time, while the palate became more obviously briny. Adding water made this even worse. Initially water killed the nose but greatly improved the palate by bringing out sweet notes, but over the next 30 minutes the whole profile fell apart with both the nose and taste eventually seeming stale and a bit like wet cardboard. It’s drinkable and quirky, but I wouldn’t call it “good” - it’s average at best and I’d recommend using it as a mixer. However at the excessively high asking price there is really no way I'd recommend this whiskey at all. “Average” : 77/100 (2.5 stars)200.0 AUD per Bottle -
Bernheim 7 Year Original Wheat Whiskey
Wheat Whiskey — Kentucky, USA
Reviewed September 21, 2018 (edited July 7, 2019)American whiskey tasting evening, Sydney, 21 September 18. Whiskey #1 Nose: Fragrantly floral, vanilla essence, pine resin, honey and buttery notes, cereal grains and some oaky toffee. Adding water brings out some rather leaden brown sugar and tends to collapse the nose. Palate: A full spicy arrival with some mild sweet ginger and bitter orange marmalade. A fruity note, a little nuttiness and some grassy, minty flavours. Water makes the palate harder rather than softer, amplifying the spicy notes too far and unbalancing the whiskey. Finish: Medium/long. Toasted cereal, bread and some woody notes. Generally speaking it has a soft and approachable character, but it's not as sweet as some comparably priced bourbons can be. The character is dry and it's softer on the nose than the palate, which turns woody as it develops. There's a cantankerous spicy note running through it that is both an asset and a fault. It lends complexity and interest, but it's a simple aroma/flavour that becomes too dominant if water is added. I'd recommend taking this whisky neat. I tasted this as the first whiskey in a flight of six at a liquor store tasting evening, and it was a great starter. I came back to the glass throughout the tasting and it held up pretty well against the following (much better) drams, although by the end of the evening its simplicity was obvious. At the price in Australia this is just barely value for money, but it's definitely worth a try at least once. It rates a solid 3 stars and I might even buy a bottle some day if I find it on special ... but not today. "Good" : 81/100 (3 stars)90.0 AUD per Bottle -
Tobermory 10 Year
Single Malt — Islands, Scotland
Reviewed September 20, 2018 (edited July 25, 2022)Nose: Gristy, grassy and fresh with citrus overtones. A very cereal-driven nose with a bracing medicinal herbal touch. There's also an oily maritime quality to it that I find very attractive and a hint of smoke, but so fleeting as to be just a flight of fancy. Palate: A sweet and tingly spice arrival. It's lightly creamy in character but also crisp and clean. The development is slow and measured, gradually building up flavours of sweet-and-sour citrus, brine, licorice, barley sugar, ginger and peat (not smoke, peat). It has a pleasant texture that is slightly oily but dry. As it rests in the glass it becomes more and more salty. Finish: Medium/long with minty, maritime cereal flavours that have an almost anaesthetic quality that must come from an interaction with wood tannin. This fades to a refined sweetness that lasts and lasts. This is a most interesting and elegant malt with great finesse. I've been meaning to get around to tasting it for some time and I'm not disappointed. It's a subtle one that conveys many impressions. It's maritime, but not the sledgehammer bonfire on the beach sort, nor the blanketing sooty fog rolling in from the Atlantic. It's much more a quiet stroll by yourself on a deserted shingle beach on a cold, cloudy day - oyster shells crunching underfoot, chill surf hissing on the stones and curlews crying in the distance. A most evocative frisson of a whisky - lovely, austere, complex and gentle, like a Hitchcock blonde. "Very Good" : 85/100 (4 stars)100.0 AUD per Bottle
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