Tastes
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Teaninich 2008 (Gordon & Macphail)
Single Malt — Highlands, Scotland
Reviewed September 6, 2018 (edited September 9, 2018)Nose: The nose is fresh and grassy with notes of lemon citrus, vanilla, freshly-mown hay, brown sugar, and a little oak. There's the faintest maritime touch, and interestingly the dry-glass aroma is of distant fragrant smoke. Palate: A sweet and light arrival featuring apple and citrus. As it develops, a tannic note appears along with some spicy heat. There's a little licorice, barley sugar and some oak. The tannin builds and has a dryness like a dry sherry. Finish: Medium/Short, peppery spice turning slightly sweet at the end. In summary I'd call this a young and firm malt. It has a certain dry grip to the nose and palate that is almost bracing. It benefits greatly from the addition of just a little water, which tames the brightness of the nose and allows the more subtle notes to emerge. On the palate the addition of water creates a much more creamy mouthfeel, which is very agreeable. Like all Teaninich it brings to mind Johnnie Walker blends, particularly Red Label, this being one of their core malts. I tasted this recently in a flight with Compass Box Asyla, and it's interesting to compare the two. Asyla is a light and subtle whisky that uses Teaninich as a core component to add the particular aromas and flavours that I've described above. When tasted in comparison, this malt seems both brighter and more direct but lacks complexity. Not long ago I rated Teaninich 10 year Flora & Fauna - this is a slightly more intense and interesting version of the same distillate, but I wouldn't recommend it and it's not particularly good value. "Above Average" : 80/100 (3 stars)130.0 AUD per Bottle -
BenRiach 10 Year
Single Malt — Speyside, Scotland
Reviewed August 28, 2018 (edited February 3, 2021)Nose: Cereal forward and fresh, with barley malt supported by lemon and apricot. There's a pleasant fat oiliness to the aroma, and as it rests and unfolds the fragrance of cinnamon and ginger boiled sweets arises. There's also a prominent sweet musky note. Palate: Oily and creamy, very full and sweet (but not cloying at all) but somewhat unfocused. As it develops there are sweet nutty flavours (hazelnut? almond?), some citrus zest and a dominant honey-malt character. Some mild sweet/spicy cereal notes like seed cake supporting it all. Finish: Short. Slightly spicy and malty with a touch of white pepper in the finale. I liked the nose on this a lot. It's both approachable but also complex and it has an elusive floral character (but it's not what I'd call a "floral whisky"). However with a dash of water the sweet musky character disappears and the nose becomes weak cereal/citrus in nature. The palate is good, but not as notable as the nose, and it lacks a solid foundation. There is a melange of sweet, oily and slightly spicy flavours but it's rather mild and a bit generic. It gave me the impression that it did not know what sort of whisky it was supposed to be. Imagine a mixture of Aberlour A'bunadh and Springbank 10 that was then mixed 50/50 with neutral grain spirit. Any amount of dilution kills the palate stone dead - this is a gentle, delicate whisky - almost fragile - and it drowns at the mere sight of water. I strongly recommend taking it neat. "Good" : 83/100 (3.5 stars)85.0 AUD per Bottle -
Nose: Toasted cereal, buttered toast, Brazil nuts, hazelnuts, vanilla, panettone, baked banana. There's a tiny ashy hint. Adding a drop of water brings out a little oak aroma but it mutes the nose too much. Palate: Rich, creamy, silken arrival. Milk chocolate, creme caramel, coconut, nutmeg, butter, caramel, savoiardi biscuits and some light oaky notes. The addition of water unleashes several types of honey and more varieties of cereal. Finish: Medium. Mildly spicy with grainy mocha flavours. There is an interesting segue to fruitiness as it fades, and a delightful lingering sweetness. This is a good whisky, and together with the Coffey Grain from Nikka it's a duet that you need to hear. The nose and palate are cereal driven, with hints of every type of grain and baked product you can imagine, and the mouth-feel is very good. The fruit part of the character is subtle and it's not about bright citrus. It's warmer, heavier and oilier and integrated with the cereal profile. Think banana bread, walnut loaf or avocado mashed on whole grain toast. If adding water do so carefully, just a couple of drops at a time. This whisky is fine neat, but water brings out notes that are just as nice. However as much as it loves water, this whisky can't swim to save itself and you can ruin a wonderful experience very easily. Don't even think about putting it anywhere near ice or mixers. Delightful, and arguably the best value Japanese whisky that you can still obtain fairly easily. "Good" : 84/100 (3.75 stars)150.0 AUD per Bottle
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Nose: The incense quality of mizunara oak is immediate and defines the nose. There are supporting hints of orchard fruits (apples, pears, peaches, apricots), vanilla and almond but soft aromatic oak dominates everything else. Palate: The arrival is light and soft with a generally fruity profile. It develops a little very gentle ginger and cinnamon spice and some malt as it unfolds. A light honey note is detectable as well. It's a sweet, smooth palate but a little too shy. Finish: Very, very short. Light, crisp and fleeting with a little hint of very mild tannin and anise right at the end. The nose is very pleasant, but as described above rather one-note. There are malty depths below the oak, and it's impossible to hate, but that sandalwood/cedar aroma keeps leaping forward. The palate is also a little disappointing and there's almost no finish at all. It's a real pity it was released at only 40%. Chivas Regal consistently disappoint me and once again they have sunk to the occasion. There is the gleam of a really good blend here but they have been mean with the quantity and quality of the malt component, stingy with the strength, and the precious mizunara casks have been used as little more than top-dressing. It's absurdly expensive for what it is and it does not represent value for money, considering all the excellent single malts that are in the same price bracket, and the many superior blends that are even cheaper. "Average" : 75/100 (2.5 stars)125.0 AUD per Bottle
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Jameson Caskmates Stout Edition
Blended — Ireland
Reviewed August 26, 2018 (edited February 27, 2023)Nose: Malt, raisins, brown sugar, cereal, light oak, sherry. Very much like regular Jameson, but with everything turned up one notch. Enhanced maltiness is the most notable characteristic, and a dash of water reveals a little hint of the stout cask aroma. Palate: Soft and silky, a malty arrival with chocolate notes. A sweet cereal hint appears in the development which becomes creamy rather than silky as it unfolds. Good texture overall and a dash of water brings out some hidden sweetness. Finish: Short. Very faintly spicy and dry as it fades out, leaving a final impression as of mocha coffee. A pleasant and successful variant of Jameson where the stout cask finish enhances the malty quality of the distillate considerably, but at the cost of some of the delicate citrus and fruity notes normally found in Jameson. It's a relatively subtle effect and although others have remarked how much it tastes of stout I didn't really get that impression. If anything, the stout cask finish gives this a profile slightly like a Speyside malt rather than an Irish blend. Adding a dash of water makes it very smooth and easy to drink, but sacrifices a tad of the presence - note also that it's very easy to drown so if watering all you need is a few drops. "Above Average" : 80/100 (3 stars)54.0 AUD per Bottle -
Mortlach 15 Year Distillery Labels (Gordon & MacPhail)
Single Malt — Speyside, Scotland
Reviewed August 23, 2018 (edited May 27, 2020)Nose: Rich and sweet, like Sugar Frosties (a tooth-decaying breakfast cereal for kiddies). Iced doughnuts, sweet marmalade, apricots, ginger snap biscuits, tangellos and mandarin orange. It's a melange of warm cereal sweetness and fruity malt that trips the light fantastic with fleet-footed aplomb, avoiding any cloying notes. Alongside the fruity notes there are savory, meaty and vegetal aromas and a very nice medium sherry influence - just a hint. What a lovely nose! Palate: A perfectly balanced arrival, treading a taught high-wire spanning sweetness and spiciness with the skill of a master aerialist. Ginger, orange, cardamom, cinnamon, cumin, and a bushel of dried fruits. Just wonderful. Underneath is a hearty lamb tagine, simmering in lemon and apricot slices. Drool. YES! This is what Mortlach should taste like. A touch drying, but in the most adorable manner imaginable. A slight chocolaty dry malt hint that pinches everything together, like a neat Cornish pasty. The texture is perfection - so precisely oily that it does not seem to be so. Finish: Medium/long, it flows on from the development and fades gloriously into a vibrant sunset. There's even a little touch of mustard spice in the tail. You will not realize how long this finish is, the aftertaste is so subtle, I guarantee. I've discussed this whisky with my mate from across "the ditch", Soba45, of late so I thought it was time for a proper review. This whisky has incredible presence and authority, but is simultaneously soft and appealing. For me it is the embodiment of David Gilmour's guitar playing, where the silence means as much as the notes. Stately and poised, with class, balls, authority and verve. That's the blues defined. What a great introduction to single malts this would be for a newcomer. I weep for those who will never experience it - it is like Springbank 10, but with sophistication and élan. If you want to know the deal with all the hype surrounding Mortlach and why old whisky geeks keep blathering on about it - try this whisky. It's a constantly produced licensed bottling, so almost a core range product. "Very Good" : 87/100 (4.25 stars)140.0 AUD per Bottle -
Manly Spirits Barrel Aged Gin
Modern Gin — Sydney, New South Wales, Australia
Reviewed August 23, 2018 (edited July 22, 2022)Nose: A soft and velvety floral fragrance featuring vanilla blossom, lavender, tea tree and lemon bay leaf, with a touch of pine forest aromas. Palate: There is a sweet citrus arrival that leads into some hot spiciness as soon as the spirit moves from the front of the mouth to the sides of the tongue. As it develops, a lot of crisp pepper notes unfold - white pepper, paprika and a dusting of faint cayenne, particularly at the back of the mouth. The more classic juniper and other botanicals don't appear until later in the development, but then remain into the finish. Finish: Medium. Spicy and floral with a little drying oak right at the end. An interesting gin that infuses the normal Manly Spirits distillate with primarily floral aromas, and a slightly citrus and astringent woodiness. It's pleasant to sip but some might find it's spicy and woody character to be strange. A cube of ice doesn't change things much initially, but after a few minutes as it melts the added water smooths out the flavour profile. With tonic it loses a good deal of the floral character and settles down to being an enjoyable dry gin, with just a touch of woody bitterness in the tail. Using a sweet tonic such as Fever Tree's Lemon Tonic would probably produce a very nice result. I found that a dash of orange bitters and a spoonful of orange curacao added to the G&T created a very acceptable summer cooler. It's enjoyable, and I'm glad I tried it, but to be honest when this bottle is finished I won't be buying a replacement. I much prefer Manly Spirits' other gins, particularly the Coastal Citrus which is definitely superior to this expression. Better than just average, but not by much, and expensive for what it is. Recommended if you can find a taste in a bar. "Above Average" : 80/100 (3 stars)100.0 AUD per Bottle -
Don Amado Reposado Mezcal
Mezcal Reposado — Oaxaca, Mexico
Reviewed August 17, 2018 (edited August 7, 2022)Nose: Citrus (a warm sweet lime?) and very light smoke. Boiled broccoli, baked root vegetables, green olives and caramelized agave. A touch of aniseed. Palate: A soft, buttery arrival with a sweet caramel note - almost honeyish. The texture is oily and mouth-coating, and carries the smoky part of the profile well. Corn, plantain, smoked paprika, stone fruits and vanilla emerge as it develops. The smoky presence is light and has a moist-earth, mineral character. As it moves towards the finale, coconut and tropical fruit hints emerge along with some subtle spearmint. The agave presence is restrained in this mezcal, I presume masked or transformed by the barrel maturation. Finish: Medium/long. Curiously, its agave origin comes to life right at the end where there is a lingering fruity/green note that is enticingly sweet/salt - almost like salted caramel toffee. A friendly mezcal that is warming and gentle. Not as characterful or challenging as some of the top shelf spirits (it lacks that fresh "artisan" quality) but it's good and only just falls short of 4 stars - a touch more complexity and layering would push it over the line. "Good" : 84/100 (3.75 stars)135.0 AUD per Bottle -
Espolòn Reposado Tequila
Tequila Reposado — Los Altos, Jalisco, Mexico
Reviewed August 17, 2018 (edited August 7, 2022)Nose: Fresh and light with a rounded herbal quality. Green apples, menthol, a little fruity note and a light oak presence that gives a hint of whisky to the nose. Palate: A smooth, soft, clean and slightly oily entry that develops some spiciness, a little eucalyptus and mint as it unfolds. There are some faint fruity flavours and very mild white pepper that is balanced by a cooling mint - hmmm, peppermint, I guess! The characteristic chlorophyll-saltyness of agave is there too, of course. The texture is very agreeable. Finish: Medium, sweet/salty/spicy with some oak and menthol lingering. A pleasant tequila that you could almost mistake for a lean mezcal, but the overall lightness gives it away. It does have some subtle oaky/smoky touches, but lacks the complexity of mezcal, and there is a somewhat brash ethanol character throughout that lets you know this is a good but not premium spirit. Very easy to sip and enjoy, and just fine as a mixer. There are better sipping tequilas for sure, but also a lot that are not as good. Taking the very reasonable price into consideration I'd call this fair value for money. "Above Average" : 80/100 (3 stars)45.0 AUD per Bottle -
Balblair 1999 3rd Release
Single Malt — Highlands, Scotland
Reviewed August 16, 2018 (edited May 17, 2019)Nose: Christmas cake, dried fruits and peel, vanilla and citrus (grapefruit and blood orange). There's a spicy character with lots of aromatic wood, both aged staves and fresh planks. Faint sandalwood and a touch of grassy mint. It's reminiscent of a bourbon nose. Palate: A firm, well textured arrival that develops lots of spice and bittersweet citrus. Vanilla and strong oak notes with dark chocolate and black coffee. It's not a soft palate, if anything it veers towards astringency but then calms down at the last minute. It's both demanding and rewarding - if you wanted to be poetic you could call it "resolute" - it has grip and authority, but no trace of ethanol prickle. Finish: Long. Sweet, oaky, gingery spice, vanilla, citrus - it's a lingering finish that leaves a full and complex aftertaste. A very satisfying dram - one of those big old-fashioned east coast highland malts that you have to take on its own terms. Newcomers to single malts might find it a little daunting as it is strongly cask-driven. Maturation was in a combination of bourbon barrels and Spanish oak sherry butts, and you can easily taste the presence of both. Not that it's over-oaked, but neither is it a soft and friendly malt. The 2nd edition 1999 was, however, more accessible and immediately impressive. Adding water initially kills the nose - let it rest and develop for at least 15 minutes (wait until the mist arises - it will start to appear almost immediately, but with time just a dash of water produces a lovely cloudiness). You will be rewarded with a whole new range of experiences. Honey and nougat come out on the nose, which broadens into an almost-but-not-quite floral profile (hints of honeysuckle, roses and violets). The palate likewise is softened but in no way diminished - water releases more spices but also dilutes them whilst taming the oakiness. It actually brings everything into greater balance. I can recommend a dash of water for this whisky as it makes it quite delicious and more approachable, but yes it does lessen the presence. You might sense a slight bitterness right at the end after dilution, but persevere - it will go away and/or you will accommodate it. It's not metallic - more like very bitter dark chocolate and over-brewed black tea. "Very Good" : 85/100 (4 stars)140.0 AUD per Bottle
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