Tastes

Taking a jump forward five years as I move today to another Starward anniversary malt, this time the Vitalis 15th Anniversary bottling. This limited run is a blend of six of their whiskies. There are parcels selected from Tawny (Aussie Port), Bourbon, Apera (first and second fill), and rum barrels. The liquids were aged for anything from four to ten years before being assembled into Vitalis. Apparently though, the star of the show here should be the red win barrels Starward want to be known for. N: Slightly oily with a restrained dark toffee presence. A little mustiness and tiny tannic malt presence, raisins, cocoa powder, cedar chips and maybe tobacco. P: Big, bold, and thick. Initially this hit me with a quite aggressive wave but a more tentative approach is packed with bitter cocoa, a supermarket bakery isles worth of dried fruits, dark chocolate, cinnamon, clove, and black pepper. A touch of espresso, toasty oak, warm malt, and treacle toffee. F: Long. Warming with a gentle balance of oak and red fruits moving towards a oily residual presence. Is that toasted coconut too? Nose not as rich and oozy as its younger 10th anniversary sibling, but dark and powerful in its own right, albeit the mix this time comes across more mature but also a little more harsh for it. The palate is the same story, big, bold, and a truck load of flavour and character, but not as sumptuous as the 10th anniversary. Again, this palate is decadent in a much more robust way. The presence of the Tawny is most definitely felt. The malt and pepper give me flashbacks to the Projects Bourbon Cask, and the dried fruits and chocolaty notes are clearly coming from the Apera and red wine. The vast improvement in this 15th Anniversary comes in the finish, it is much more balanced to the rest of the experience and leaves a satisfying impression. Is this better overall than the 10th anniversary, objectively I think yes. There is no hiding imperfection behind a wall of decadence, this is punchy, developed, and is taking no prisoners; it wont be for everyone, but it is better than the 10th. The more important question though is did I enjoy it more than the 10th? No, not really, they are in different categories and each has their place. A worthy entry from Starward and worth trying I’d say. Distiller whisky taste #216 [Pictured here with a brace of little diamonds from somewhere in the USA. It might be considered that peat > lignite > bituminous coal > anthracite, would mean the next step in the pressure and time continuum is diamonds, but no. Thats a myth. Coal doesn’t form diamonds. But I’ve used my graphite schist (the actual next step) on my Lindores Abbey series, and this pressure and time analogy had to go somewhere. These diamonds are anywhere between 0.9 and 3.5 billion years old, formed at 150-250 km deep in the Earths mantle. Starward here have clearly started producing some real gems themselves after taking time and refining their craft]. Starward running scores: Fortis: 3.25/5 10th Anniversary: 4.25/5 Vitalis 15th Anniversary: 4.5/5 Whisky Club Exclusive, Maple Cask: 2/5 Whisky Club Exclusive, Cognac Cask: 3.5/5 Projects, Octave Barrels: 3.75/5 Projects, Dolce: 2.25/5 Projects, Bourbon Cask: 3.5/5 Projects, Tawny #2: 3.5/5 Projects, UnExpeated: 3.75/5 Projects, Peated: 2.75/5 Small Batch, Hungarian Oak: 3/5 Small Batch, Sticky Toffee Apple: 3.25/5 Small Batch, Chardonnay: 4/5

Taking a break from Starward special releases to focus on a couple of special releases. Wait what? The 10th anniversary edition doesn’t fall under Starwards ‘projects’ or ‘small batch’ releases. Rather this single malt marked their 10th Anniversary. Apparently, this liquid was made from a vatting of 28 casks including the influence of all eight varieties of cask used by Starward up to their 10th Anniversary including red wine, Apera (Aussie Sherry), and Jerez PX. The exact mix is well guarded, but the ginger beer cask (I should track that down) is not in the mix. N: Deep, rich, indulgent yet precise and controlled. Bitter orange, crisp toffee, vanilla, smooth dark chocolate, cherry and jammy fig compote, a whip of leather highlights a buried core of slightly oaky malt. P: Thick, oily, and abundantly excessive in the best of ways. This has so much heft and presence that I can’t help but wonder if maybe I’m eating ice-cream. Sherry soaked raisins and sultans, treacle, apple cider vinegar, plums, mocha, nutmeg and pepper. The leather continues, but this time it doesn’t bring malt, it brings something brighter and greener, almost herbaceous; its refreshing and cleansing. F: Medium. Light blackberry, and a nuttiness with a touch of lemon peel. That nose, crikey. The opera and red wine are the backbone that deliver indulgent richness, but then with utter precision there is enough bitterness to cut through, and a figurative leather whip of sultry texture that pulls back the curtain to showcase a delicate malt. But then the palate comes at you like a freight train, incredible presence of flavours and richness, no rough edges, and an ability to take you deep without effort. But then, it just falls short. The finish just doesn’t stand up to what came before it. On a less massive liquid the finish would undoubtedly be wonderful. But here, it just fades away without making itself well known. An almighty effort from the team at Starward, ten years of practice clearly paid off. Distiller whisky taste #215 [Pictured here with the continued progression from peat to lignite to bituminous coal, now we have anthracite. This lump of carbon comes from the 323-290 million year old South Wales Coalfields. Anthracite is the ultimate transformation of peat. Pressure, over time is transformative. So as for rocks, so for whisky from Starward it seems.] Starward running scores: Fortis: 3.25/5 10th Anniversary: 4.25/5 Whisky Club Exclusive, Maple Cask: 2/5 Whisky Club Exclusive, Cognac Cask: 3.5/5 Projects, Octave Barrels: 3.75/5 Projects, Dolce: 2.25/5 Projects, Bourbon Cask: 3.5/5 Projects, Tawny #2: 3.5/5 Projects, UnExpeated: 3.75/5 Projects, Peated: 2.75/5 Small Batch, Hungarian Oak: 3/5 Small Batch, Sticky Toffee Apple: 3.25/5 Small Batch, Chardonnay: 4/5

Peated Finish is the progression of Starwards original peat experiment; UnExpeated. Like UnExpeated, the Peated Project brings together new world whisky with traditional Islay peated casks. The main difference between this Peated and the UnExpeated is that this one spent more time in barrels (18 months vs 9 months) and a slightly lighter Starward blend was laid down. As with UnExpeated this release was also originally matured in Starwards signature red wine barrels. Overall, Starward were aiming for a deeper and smokier expression that better represented the provenance of the Islay barrels. N: Curiosity strikes again! The nose is inviting, creamy, and soft. Charred juicy stone fruits (think apricot and peach), well balanced bitter chocolate, a hint of espresso, and a toasty barrel presence that leans towards toffee. Is there a malt presence here, maybe; if so its a whisper for me. The peat is subdued and slightly rubbery. P: Slightly thin with a hint of a prickle. Smoke is a frontrunner, this smoke is woody and with an ashy presence. A very light malt presence carries with it peach iced tea, strawberry sweetness, bitter mocha, and some tannic oaks. Well balanced (I think), but a little lacklustre also. F: Medium. Peat remains as a gentle rubbery to medicinal reminder of Islay, a refreshing juiciness comes from the back, and I just about find a preserved lemon note also. The oak comes across slightly like pencil shavings. I was quite excited with this pour coming off the back of the intriguing UnExpeated. But, I am now a bit deflated. The nose whilst curious, mostly due to the contrast with its forerunner, just didn’t deliver the same oomph. The peat that was there felt artificial and too rubbery, losing the nice contrast of fresh and dark. The palate then took a sharp turn towards boring. The peat dries up to leave an ashy woody smoke with none of the salty-BBQ goodness that came from this pours younger brethren. The advertised tropical Starward spirit was more noticeable in the peach and strawberry but it just didn’t deliver the same level of experience as UnExpeated. The finish, the lemon touch was pleasant and well received but the oak had overstayed it’s welcome by this point. Again, these are not Peated whiskies, Starward has taken the easier route to produce something certainly UnExpeated on the one had, but pedestrian and lack lustre on the other. If you want to try an Australian Peated whisky, I have to stand by one of my five stars; Limeburners Darkest Winter. Pricy, but in my mind, worth it. If you want to go Starward though, definitely go with UnExpeated not this one. Distiller whisky taste #214 [Pictured here with the natural progression of lignite from peat; bituminous coal. Again, still not a proper peated whisky, so not a proper peat. But ramping up the peat barrel contact deserves a more evolved kind of coal. Bituminous coal with 60-80% carbon content and a high bitumen content is the result of progressive burial and compaction of lignite. This piece is ~290-354 million years old from the coal measures of Yorkshire, England] Starward running scores: Fortis: 3.25/5 Whisky Club Exclusive, Maple Cask: 2/5 Whisky Club Exclusive, Cognac Cask: 3.5/5 Projects, Octave Barrels: 3.75/5 Projects, Dolce: 2.25/5 Projects, Bourbon Cask: 3.5/5 Projects, Tawny #2: 3.5/5 Projects, UnExpeated: 3.75/5 Projects, Peated: 2.75/5 Small Batch, Hungarian Oak: 3/5 Small Batch, Sticky Toffee Apple: 3.25/5 Small Batch, Chardonnay: 4/5

‘Smoky whisky barrels meet red-wine-barrel-aged single malt. Islay, Scotland melds with Melbourne, Australia. UnExpeated indeed. Peated Australian Whisky is not common, Australian Whisky peated with Australian Peat is even less common. So, this is actually rather Expeated. If you want to avoid the difficulty of using peat in Australia then its arguably easier to piggy back off of the experts on Islay. From Starward “It fuses new world whisky with traditional Islay peated casks, melding our red wine barrel aged Australian single malt whisky, with the peated whisky-drenched casks from Islay, Scotland. It spent close to 9 months in those casks, and according to Head Blender Jarrad the first 6 months of that time were a bit of a gamble as the whisky settled down and began to develop into what you taste today.” I would add that the listing for this bottle is incorrect; this is a peated cask finish whisky, not a peated whisky. The malt has not seen smoke…. Distiller, please allow entries to be edited! N: How curious, light and vibrant with a dark undertone. This instantly gives me vibes of a temperate rain forrest just after the rain. Juicy non distinct fruitiness is layered with a toasty slightly tannic oak, vague hint of leather and cocoa, and then a slightly sweet medicinal peat seems to be inseparable from barley malt. P: The palate is nothing like the nose. Initial rich salty beach bonfire, burnt BBQ glaze, and charred stone fruit. Subsequent sips reveal brighter summer berries, creamy chocolate, and fresh apple acidity. Something at the back end though has an almost artificial outlier that I can’t put my finger on, but it pulls you away from an otherwise interesting and playful profile. F: Medium-long. Lingering slightly peppery coastal smoke, a hint of salt and tar, and rich dark cocoa powder and gentle toffee. Just the slightest metallic residue. Nose a strange medley of profiles that would be more typical of simple malt profiles, rich port casks, and brighter Islay heavyweights. The palate is a surge from the outset and definitely does fulfil Starwards goal of an unexpected combine. The Isaly casks are undeniable and whilst not delicate in presence they do not completely overpower the fresher and juicer red wine barrel contributions Starward is known for. The curious back end of the palate though almost feels like the two components are tearing apart and leaving something untoward in the wake. The finish is well executed and rewards you with each sip. This is not without its faults but is none the less a surprisingly well executed dram, and interesting enough to deliver something against the grain for consideration. Distiller whisky taste #213 [Pictured here, not with another shooting star for Starward, but rather the closest thing I have to peat. This isn’t really a peated whisky, so this isn’t really a piece of peat. This is a lignite, or brown coal, the next step in the burial conversion of peat to true coal. This sample is young, at around 11-18 million years old and comes from the Lower Rhine Basin of Germany.] Starward running scores: Fortis: 3.25/5 Whisky Club Exclusive, Maple Cask: 2/5 Whisky Club Exclusive, Cognac Cask: 3.5/5 Projects, Octave Barrels: 3.75/5 Projects, Dolce: 2.25/5 Projects, Bourbon Cask: 3.5/5 Projects, Tawny #2: 3.5/5 Projects, UnExpeated: 3.75/5 Small Batch, Hungarian Oak: 3/5 Small Batch, Sticky Toffee Apple: 3.25/5 Small Batch, Chardonnay: 4/5

Back in Australia I am picking up where I left off, continuing with the exploration of a dizzying array of Australian liquid from Starward. When I left things I was starting to see promise amongst the many, many releases. The core element (acknowledging I’m yet to sample all the core range) in Starward is a rich and often thick red wine influence that leads to something commonly generic, but; with the right finishing barrels, can develop into something really interesting (like in the octave or chardonnay barrels). Very keen to see where things go now; nine more specials and three core ranges. Sorry if you all get bored. The Tawny #1 was a limited release and sold out in record time. Like Tawny #1, #2 was fully matured in Tawny (read: port) casks (both fresh and charred). The Starward distillers then threw in some puncheon and hogshead barrels apparently in an attempt to showcase the vibrant tropical notes from the spirit profile. N: Thick, dark, and rich. Raisin, plum, caramel-dates, orange peel, a little leather and a warm toasty oak. P: Medium body with a little oily stickiness. The nose delivers what was promised but with a building sweet presence from sticky caramel that moves towards burnt caramel or dark brown sugar with a hint of vanilla. Spices build through the profile offering nutmeg and cinnamon. Bitterness from cocoa adds a little depth and balance and doesn’t quite cross into the territory of leather. F: Medium. A hint of brightness from what feels like cold water with apple and strawberry slices in it is quickly overlain by light toasted oak, light caramel, a smidge of vanilla, and a drying spice mix that adds a dash of black pepper to the mix. What opened with a fairly standard port cask nose was as expected, the palate added a little more intrigue with the, still expected, notes of bitterness from cocoa. This is all well and good and fine, and to be honest, no better or worse than would be expected of middle shelf port casks. Where things took a turn for the interesting and really enjoyable was the finish. The finish, if you look for it, has refreshingly bright acidity from a crisp apple presence and a juicy strawberry. My assumption is that this must be the ‘vibrancy’ of the spirit that the distillers were seeking to showcase, I wouldn’t call them tropical, but they are a welcome addition to a perfectly acceptable dram. That said, for AUD$48 less I can get the 50% Arran Port Cask; thats not fair competition really. Distiller whisky taste #212 [Pictured here with another shooting star for Starward, and picking up exactly where I left off. This is a second slice of a fine octahedrite iron-meteorite has been cut from the Muonionalusta Meteorite. The meteorite fell in northern Scandinavia between Sweden and Finland some 800,000 years ago with the meteorite itself formed during the accretion of our Solar System ~4.6 billion years ago. The intricate pattern seen on these slices is called Widmanstätten Pattern, a complex mineral structure created by long crystals of nickel-iron alloys.] Starward running scores: Fortis: 3.25/5 Whisky Club Exclusive, Maple Cask: 2/5 Whisky Club Exclusive, Cognac Cask: 3.5/5 Projects, Octave Barrels: 3.75/5 Projects, Dolce: 2.25/5 Projects, Bourbon Cask: 3.5/5 Projects, Tawny Batch #2: 3.5/5 Small Batch, Hungarian Oak: 3/5 Small Batch, Sticky Toffee Apple: 3.25/5 Small Batch, Chardonnay: 4/5

To this day I have never once had a Jack Daniels whisky, not even in a whisky cola. I have always held a snobbish rebuke of JD, believing it to represent an inferior and harsh spirit drank exclusively for the sake of getting drunk. Currently sat in the Qatar first class lounge at Heathrow airport after a delightfully successful blag to gain entry I am facing down about six wine and champagne choices alongside Bombay sapphire gin and JD whisky. So here we are… N: Supremely sweet caramel. Perhaps the vaguest hint of oily ness and maybe even a generic spice; but, ultimately I could be convinced of its use as a topping for pancakes with this nose. P: Slightly thin, slightly sticky mouthfeel. Unsurprisingly caramel is abundant with a definite presence of candy bananas (you know the yellow foam ones?), cheap vanilla ice cream and a little presence of spirit. F: Medium. Sticky corn syrup sweetness, a toasty presence and eventually a spirit presence in the back. I’m surprised. I thought this would be paint stripper and a waste of my taste buds. As a cheap, mass produced whisky this isn’t as bad as others. Nothing great, but nothing awful (as long as you don’t mind sweet caramel). I’m glad to have tasted this, and at least now know that I have a safe option should I ever find myself with limited choices. I can’t see any problem with stretching this out over a cola… clearly everyone in dive bars and rock concerts has known something I didn’t all this time… Distiller whisky taste #211

Currently half way through my Europe trip. Due to unforeseen access to rocks, I didn’t end up visiting the Lakes Distillery as planned. So no distillery visit at all this time. But; all is not lost. I’m currently sat looking out over the rich lawyer district of Rome. Going through duty free at the airport this morning I picked up a bottle of Talisker, and no ordinary bottle at that. My wife and I have walked about 20 km today seeing sights and in the back of my mind I’ve had this to look forward to… “Talisker is proud to present a new limited edition: Talisker 'Wilder Seas' in collaboration with our partner, Parley for the Oceans. Our shared goal is to rewild more than 100 million square metres of ocean forest, and with Talisker Wilder Seas, we invite wild spirits around the world to join us on our journey. Talisker x Parley "Wilder Seas" is our very first single malt scotch whisky finished in French Oak XO Cognac casks. It has a pleasurable weight on the palate and a fine depth of taste, delivering a highly successful marriage of cask and spirit character - mature and rounded. The new 100% recycled bottle is made from biofuel and has been re-shaped into the distinctive Talisker bottle. This Limited Edition is vision and mission combined, as the in-built donation supports global, sustainable projects to protect and preserve sea forests off the coast of Scotland, South Africa and Chile.” N: Soft, but quite powerful. A dry mineral presence is accompanied by maritime brine, a bacon note and a very gentle leafy-tobacco. But, whilst that is the hallmark of Talisker there is a delicate richness added from a sultana and figgy malt. The richness is understated and quite lovely. P: Full and lightly viscous. This is a creamy heavyweight opening with sticky fruity sweetness that brings forth the fig and sultana of the nose. But, that is quickly joined by slightly salted meats, ashy beach bonfire, a little deck tar and the all so important Talisker heat, but it’s very restrained. F: Long to very long. The warmth of a winter hearth, drying smoke, and an interplay of salt, caramelly-dates, and black pepper. What an interesting pour. I am stuck between memories of the Talisker 18 and Port Charlotte CC:01. When I wrote it T18 I closed with “It has all the power of the 10. It is bold, assertive, and rich in depth. But, it is calmer without being subdued. It is the sum total of the tempests violence and the contemplative calmness that follows. This is excellent.” CC:01 was border line perfect for me, one of my very few 5/5 ratings. The cognac cask in CC:01 adds a depth of character to an already excellent spirit and whisky process that is almost singular in its character development. Whilst this Talisker is not quite as good as the T18 at its roots, and not as powerfully novel as in the CC:01, this Wilder Seas is not much less for it. I like imagery, and for Talisker it’s all about the Sea. Here; I picture a period navy commander adorned in finery stepping off his ship and entering a room commanding attention. This dram holds plenty of power and poise. Distiller whisky taste #210 Talisker Running Scores T10 - 4/5 T18 - 4.75/5 57° North - 4.25/5 Skye - 3.5/5 T8 2021 (Sea Fury) 4.5/5 Wilder Seas - 4.25/5 'Brandy' cask running scores: Port Charlotte CC:01 - 5/5 Balvenie 16 French Oak Pineau Cask Finish - 3.5/5 Arran Rare Batch 17 y/o Calvados - 3.75/5 Starward Cognac Cask - 3.5/5 Glenfiddich Orchard Experiment Ponoma 2.75/5 Starward Small Batch, Sticky Toffee Apple - 3.25/5 Talisker X Parley Wilder Seas - 4.25/5 *edited at 1/3 of bottle remaining*

I bought this whisky for my Dad at Christmas last year, just shared a dram amongst the roses on a fine English summer evening, few finer settings I can think of. N: oily and a little musty. Dusty oat bag, malt, creamy butterscotch, orange oil and waxy lemon rind. Light almond and something distinctly herbal/floral. Remarkably complex and delicate. P: Creamy texture with well rounded presence. Sweet sticky barely sugar, orange liqueur, nutty marzipan, chewy honey. Maybe something lighter and brighter like a strawberry or raspberry also. Brilliant development of layered texture-flavours that each mesh well with a little black pepper through the profile. F: Medium-long. Tannic and a little spicy. Black pepper and verging on cumin?, bitter orange and slightly tannic vanillin presence. Eminently enjoyable, complex and refined beyond its youngness, and somewhat unique in its textural complexity and wonderful flavour variance. I can see Cotswolds becoming a power house into the future. Highly recommend trying this one. Distiller whisky taste #209 GBP £34 | AUD $103

In the UK for four days now and currently hating the price of Australian whisky. This whisky is the original Penderyn ‘house style’, aged in ex-bourbon barrels and finished in ex-Madeira wine casks. I have wanted to try Penderyn liquid for a year or more now, but this bottle alone is $121 minimum in Australia. Supermarket here in UK - £26 (AUD$50). Now sitting on the patio at 20:30 and the suns still just about up, making this bottle shine a beautiful golden colour and living up to the moniker of Welsh Gold. I am quite excited by this pour… N: Oily, creamy and rich. Laden with sultanas, vanilla-toffee, banana and coconut, and ever so slightly herbal-grassy presence. P: Silky and full bodied. Sweetness of green apples and vanilla shortbread biscuit are well balanced with a creamy and delectable oak presence that lifts to an almost orange perfume F: Long. Crisp and pleasantly dry. Tropical elements return from the nose, coconut and maybe something approaching mango. Shortbread and some plump raisin combine with a late ginger spice. This is wonderful. Whilst you can tell this is a little young there is a wonderful fresh vibrancy to everything and just enough oak to add character and wonderful texture. Lovely complexity and balanced development. Yummy stuff, and at £26 an absolute steal. Distiller whisky taste #208

Sitting in the first class lounge at Perth airport, about to depart on a six week epic. Had hoped to have a wider range of whisky options for pre flight sampling. The choices: Jameson and Chivas 12. Oh dear. Oh well, about time I made an entry for such a classic staple. N: Surprisingly soft and delicate. Vanilla and creamy toffee are the big bold canvas, upon which there are light strokes of gentle oak, banana and malt and a tiny herbal aniseed and spice. P: Slightly thin and a bit of obtrusive spirit. Very banana driven but balanced by a fairly hefty barely presence. A lightly oaky-spiced caramel with some weak willed nutty-oily emergent texture. Pretty bland though. F: Medium. Peppery heat, coconut-banana laden barely sugar. For what is basically a bottom shelf whisky there are no negative surprises. You get what you pay for on the palate and finish, a barely present and generic hit of mass produced malt with simple barrel influence. What is pleasantly surprising though is the nose; which has a little subtlety and immersive presence that is beyond the low price point. Distiller whisky taste #207 [No rock in this picture. My wife tells me no one at airport security would appreciate a “travel rock” in my carry on].