Tastes
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Brand reputation is an interesting thing. A company that is barely known in the market can suddenly win visible awards with high quality spirits. Others that are relative behemoths may lead consumers to disappointment and crushed expectations. I received a sample of Canadian Club 100% Rye and I had my Canadian pride at the ready. This rye's early nose smells like cherry syrup, grain, demerara sugar and wet newspaper. It later settles to burnt sugar and wood shavings. Canadian Club 100% Rye has a modest, light flavour profile: Subdued simple syrup sweetness is paired with polite pepper. There's light tanginess with notes of plain vanilla biscuits. It has a moderate, vaguely bitter finish that ghosts you for flavour like a fun conversation with a person who was never to be heard from again. The lasting impression is just a quiet tongue tingle without much discernible flavour. It feels like drying, television static that makes me wish for the momentum this rye gained from its nose. Canadian Club 100% Rye may appeal most to people who would like to "shoot" whisky or "don't really like the taste of whisky." Though this pour is not directly off-putting, there are other "local" bottles I'd prefer for the (fortunately low) price point. 5.25/10
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What's your favourite springtime dram? With the sun shining and temperatures on the rise, I thought it would be a great day to taste Glengoyne 12. The nose brings me to an orchard with smells of ripe apple and barley. Over time, creamy vanilla, faint coconut and aged wood waft in like a warm breeze. The taste of this oily, rich golden-brown pour begins coquettishly mild with honeyed grape sweetness. Seconds later, a medium pepper spice kick with tannic accompaniment join in. It descends to a moderate length finish with oak, bitter orange zest and nutmeg. It's a light and easygoing dram that would be great in the spring. Its freshness is welcome for variety's sake or as an addition to an unpeated roster. It doesn't have massive layers of complexity but some days, that is quite alright by me. 7.25/10
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This eye catching bottle hails from its humble Speyside distillery in the town of Rothes. I love that they still maintain in-house cooperage and I admire their dedication to no added artificial whisky colourants. The Glenrothes Select Reserve's nose has an even blend of apple, gentle smoke and clover honey. I can also smell subtle pear and lemon marmalade. No one note pops out, but the nose is very nicely balanced. As the dram continues to sit, the sweet jammy pear becomes more pronounced under a thin veil of smoke and creamy vanilla. This golden pour has a light and oily mouthfeel. The gentle peat from the nose is my first flavour along with plain biscuit, toasted almond and lime. Smoke and pepper intensify through the tasting and finish, like it's ascending to a climax. This is unique, since I'm more accustomed to "louder" smoke notes that diminish after their initial blast. The billows of smoke that grow through my tasting suddenly stop. It's as if a large gust of wind came along and blew it away. What remains is a long, lightly peated finish from its former flame that warms my heart. I can taste subtle sour and vanilla notes reminiscent of classic plain cheesecake. Because of its light sipping ease and unique, mischievous charm, this is one of those pours that would disappear too quickly. The described reversal of smoke feels like a coquettish 'wink and a smile' that piques my curiosity for the next sip. 8.25/10
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Have you had that feeling when you return to your corporate job after time off and see a triple digit amount of emails in your inbox? While an abrupt return to reality can cause heart palpitations, as silly as it sounds, Tomintoul 10 reminds me to be gentle with myself (...marketed as "the gentle dram" afterall). Who would have thought that whisky would invoke such sound philosophy? The nose shares orange blossoms, oak and steeped chamomile tea with a drizzle of honey. Delicate, aged dry wood shavings and toffee chime in to add more rustic charm. My sips of Tomintoul 10 are smooth and I taste soft honeyed apple sweetness that compliments the nose. Sadly, it's fleeting. A brief wave of dried barley and lemon zest makes way to a slightly drying, moderate finish. What lingers is a primarily tannic flavour. While I would smell that nose all day, the flavour journey is too quick for me. In my head I shouted "wait, I'm just getting started!" as I flailed my metaphorical arms. Some days do call for a mild pour, but I prefer Tomintoul's expressions with a few more years on them. 6.5/10
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El Jimador Reposado Tequila
Tequila Reposado — Tequila Valley, Jalisco, Mexico
Reviewed April 10, 2021 (edited April 29, 2022)What's your vacation drink of choice? I've been enjoying a few days off of the corporate hustle and while I can't travel to a beach right now, I'll soak in the sun, close my eyes and sip tequila. I had not seen this bottle of El Jimador Reposado in a while since I tend to keep taller bottles to the back of my bar for aesthetics. The Jimadores (harvesters) cut each agave heart (piña) by hand with a sharp tool (coa). The agave hearts are then roasted in a clay oven before fermentation and double distillation. The spirit is then rested in oak bourbon barrels for two months prior to bottling. El Jimador Reposado's nose offers agave, a bit of tangy lime and a savory quality like fresh butter. Later on, I can pick out soft floral notes like lilac, cedar and more fresh citrus. This is a mild tequila. It begins with brief vanilla sweetness that pivots. You still sense the familiar ramp up to bite that tends to induce wincing facial expressions, but it feels more like going over a speed bump than a cliff. I can taste wisps of menthol threaded through cooked agave, spices and oak. The finish is long but pleasant: Herbal and sweet. It doesn't offer some of the substance and personality that other tequilas might offer but at the low price point, this would fit nicely in mixed drinks (or be a less abrasive option to sip straight at 40% ABV). 6.75/10 -
Hampden 2007 10 Year Cask Strength Jamaican Rum - Kill Devil (Hunter Laing) TWB Exclusive
Gold Rum — Jamaica
Reviewed April 5, 2021 (edited April 14, 2021)I feel like there's irony in reviewing something entitled "Kill Devil" on Easter weekend. Historically, "kill-devil" was a colloquial reference to rum liquor as far back as the 1650s. Using rum from Hampden Distillery in Jamaica, this single cask 10 year Kill Devil exclusive is a collaboration between Hunter Laing’s Kill Devil Rum Range and The Whisky Barrel. Distilled in 2007, this Pot Still single cask yielded 270 bottles at 62.5% ABV. Initially, I smell overripe papaya alongside rubber and solvent. With time, brown sugar comes out, which grounds the nose to lean more sweet. This is a very powerful pour that takes me on a flavour ride of contrasts: A sour, salty start leads to brief flashes of peated scotch smoke amidst some sweet and spicy tones like hot cross buns. My tongue salivates at the end but yet it's drying. The aftertaste reminds me of the black rubber ground of a playground baking in the sun. Or paint thinner. While this rum scores points for originality and flair, it's not to my personal taste to be had neat. I feel some flavour whiplash, though after letting it breathe and some water drop experimentation, I bumped up my score through the session. I appreciate its smoky moment that I'll interpret as a wink to its Scottish influence. 6.75/10 -
Larceny Small Batch Kentucky Straight Bourbon
Bourbon — Kentucky, USA
Reviewed April 5, 2021 (edited May 10, 2021)Are all wheaters winners? I've heard that Larceny's star is on the rise in the bourbon world. To my surprise, I spotted a lone bottle of Larceny Small Batch Kentucky Bourbon on the liquor store shelf in Canada (where it has become notoriously challenging to source bourbons from recently). I celebrate the small wins when I can while the US border is closed! The nose is fairly light with wheat, wood shavings and caramel candy. Later, oak and vanilla ease in. Larceny Small Batch has a hot first sip (though it's only 92 proof) and has a thin, oily mouthfeel. A brief blast of spice and pepper leaves as quickly as it arrives. There's distant orange zest and torched crème brûlée sweetness in the background as the spice wave subsides. This bourbon has a relatively short, mild and dry finish with subtle burnt sugar like the baked tops of muffins exiting the oven. Larceny Small Batch seems like a fair, everyday bourbon with some pep in its step. It could be placebo, but I swear that this bottle improved after being opened 4 months ago. If the price is reasonable, I'd be perfectly happy to snag and sip over ice. 7.25/10 -
Glenmorangie The Cadboll Estate 15 Year (Batch #1)
Single Malt — Highlands, Scotland
Reviewed April 2, 2021 (edited September 27, 2021)How have you made home more cozy this year? In the spirit of staying close to home, Glenmorangie's The Cadboll Estate 15 Year is crafted with barley from 440 glorious acres by the distillery itself. Glenmorangie’s Head of Whisky Creation, Dr. Bill Lumsden selected the particular kind of barley and processing for this inaugural single estate whisky; maturation exclusively in first-fill American oak ex-bourbon barrels. The nose smells like barley and sunshine. I can imagine myself going for a stroll through Cadboll Estate with its smell of straw, light citrus and hint of molasses. The aroma settles more deeply with aged wood shavings and chamomile flowers. The Cadboll Estate 15 has a bright 'n' light grain and citrus palate with a smattering of pepper. This initial tanginess quickly transitions to a rich, moderate length apple, oak and savory shortbread finish. This easy drinking pale yellow pour would be gentle for wince-worthy palates. While it could risk being considered bland to folks who prefer stronger profiles, I'll happily bask in its sunshine. 7.75/10 -
What's an excellent value staple bottle on your bar? While my heart belongs to whiskies, I believe in cross category appreciation (and a fully stocked bar). I stumbled upon Top Shelf Vodka a few years ago and was intrigued. It's a locally produced craft spirit in a sleek, rectangular bottle that shines amongst similarly priced mass produced options. Top Shelf Vodka has a very subtle aroma. There's a refreshing quality like how enjoyable the air smells when you're near a body of water. Think ocean spray (...or lake spray for the rest of us). Its soft flavour carries light sweetness that turns savory-tangy. Images of sweet corn drizzled in cotija cheese appear for me. This easily fades through a gentle lip and tongue tingling sensation. Top Shelf Vodka is a very smooth, well bodied vodka that plays nicely in mixed drinks. There is no discernable aftertaste (nor regret) here, which is why you're likely to see a bottle of this on my shelf. 8/10
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What conventionally bitter things do you enjoy? I'm a dark chocolate fiend with an affinity for excellent espresso. Amaro translates to "bitter" in Italian. Amaro Montenegro is the result of the boiling, maceration and distillation of 40 botanicals of various herbs, spices, roots, fruits and seeds. These unique extracts are further blended with alcohol, sugar and water along with a micro distillation called premio. Appropriately, Amaro Montenegro's bottle is crafted to resemble an alchemist's potion vial. The nose is sweet, earthy and medicinal with dark honey, anise and orange rind. A black tea and eucalyptus baseline complete with lemon wheel comes through after it sits. Amaro Montenegro enters the mouth in a coating, even-keel way. Its flavour begins with a balanced nose-like profile with added nutmeg and clove. It swiftly spins around with "a reveal and a wink" of slight licorice bitterness. It's enough to intrigue you, but not too much that you pull back. The herbal bitterness stays on your tongue for a while and it's complemented by the residual sweetness on your lips where your sip began. This tastes like a liqueur that should have some health benefits for me. At the very least, I'm happy to tell myself just that. I admire that Amaro Montenegro claims a consistent process of production since 1885. Its mellow, bitter and sweet flavour profile is something I would happily enjoy as a digestif after a meal. 8/10
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