Ardbeg 21 Year

Sweet. Subtle smoke. Raisins. Exceptionally long finish. Easy drinking. Hard price.

What better occasion for finally opening this bottle than my father's 80th birthday, for which I gave him this plus two other bottles that totaled four score years in age. It's a fascinating spin on an Ardbeg, with a light straw color and a floral nose that hints at jasmine on this warm spring night in London. There's a burst of citrusy flavors on the first sip that blossoms into an extraordinarly gusty amount of umami smoke and pepper that belies its age. A grilled mushroom taste lingers for as long as you can wait between sips, amid an abundance of moisture-draining tannins. Interesting more than essential and questionable value at the price, but a worthy reference point for fans of the distillery. For the record, I packaged this with a 50-year-old blend from That Boutiquey Whisky Company and a Bowmore 9 for a gift amounting to 80 years of exceptional malt. There will be many happy returns.