cascode
Reviewed
December 19, 2019 (edited July 14, 2022)
Nose: Fresh briny gusts blowing in from the sound. Salt spray, iodine, sea-wrack and a muted but invigorating peat-reek. The distant smoke from an ancient steamer beating its way against the tide. There's citrus and vanilla notes and a hay-like dustiness to the smoke. They say there were sherry casks in this mix but it noses like a very pure bourbon maturation. Those sherry casks were new American oak, for sure. Adding water does not improve the nose - it evolves plastic aromas and loses delicacy. Much better neat. [The dry-glass aroma is strong vanilla. Yep, American oak].
Palate: Brisk and fresh arrival practically crackling with fresh barley. Maritime and salty and in the initial development there is a sudden rush of grapefruit and lemon pepper. The smoke pervades the palate but is outpaced by the citrus notes and it lacks texture a little, being thin, brittle, ashen and light. An almost brackish note like olive brine emerges later. Adding water sweetens but cheapens the profile, and over time it becomes very sweet.
Finish: Long. Maritime and sooty with a prolonged sour/sweet aftertaste veering pleasantly towards salted milk chocolate in the finale.
The nose is comparatively gentle for an Ardbeg and has a crisp lightness of touch however the palate is a little lacking, but admittedly delicate and elegant. I like the official tasting note that there is no middle to the whisky, just a beginning and end. Truth. There is no evidence of alcohol at any stage - the nose and palate are completely devoid of intrusive ethanol, even at almost 48%. It's probably the most discreet and genteel Ardbeg I've tasted.
More than anything, this makes me imagine what peated sea-water would taste like, if you could make such a thing. It is simple, direct, and most likely very young with little cask influence showing. Water doesn't exactly hurt it but it does make the profile more "ordinary". Neither does it open much over time in the glass. Pour this and quaff it neat.
I enjoyed this whisky, but it's one of those drams that you score well but think "Would I buy a bottle of this? Probably not." Still, it's a good dram and for me only just a fraction short of 4 stars.
Tasted from a 30ml sampler.
"Good" : 84/100 (3.75 stars)
250.0
AUD
per
Bottle