cascode
Reviewed
February 20, 2026 (edited April 6, 2026)
Nose: The nose is fragrantly fruity with aromas of pineapple, apricot, peach, green apple, mandarin, and pu-erh tea. There is also a delicate, elegant floral quality with iris, jonquil and frangipani apparent, particularly after it has rested in the glass for a while. A small dash of water opens the nose but do not add too much.
Palate: Gentle fruity sweetness and just a little ginger spice in the arrival. The palate expands wonderfully in the development showing milk chocolate, a touch of salty caramel, orange liqueur, barley sugar and honey. The texture is good but a shade on the thin side. The black tea note that was present on the nose is reflected in the late development as well, and it continues into the finish. As with the nose, a couple of drops of water is beneficial.
Finish: Medium/Short. Briny fruit salad with some herbal and tannic notes, but these are not intrusive. Despite its immediate impression of being very short there is a lingering barley sugar note.
The nose on this expression is not “big” and demonstrative, but neither is it lacking. It is light and subtle but there is an undeniable, sinewy strength of character. It is a gymnast, not a wrestler. This bottling would have been better at 46% abv or more, but given that it is a 22 year old vintage release that was perhaps not possible.
This is a delightful single malt that dates from the era when Balblair was still releasing vintage bottlings, before the owner of Inver House (the immediate managing company) decreed that vintages were too confusing for consumers to understand and too time consuming to manage, so in future only age statement whiskies would be released. Some of the old vintages were admittedly not that great, but most were very good and sadly none of the new age statement whiskies has matched the best of the old vintage releases in quality.
This is very pleasant and easy to enjoy, and a good example of how sprightly and ethereal old highland whisky can be. I have only just opened this so it has been sleeping in the bottle for 15 years. It is getting better with every pour so I will post a follow-up in a few weeks once the level has dropped and it has properly woken up. The rating may increase at that time.
When I bought this bottle in 2013 it was AUD$99 but nowadays on the secondaries it is 4 times that, however even at AUD$400 it is well worth it.
“Very Good” : 87/100 (4.25 stars)