Benromach Peat Smoke 2004

* Review transferred from the listing for the 2005 expression, now that one is available for the 2004. Nose: Soft smoke with floral and fresh damp earthy overtones. Imagine a campsite surrounded by wildflowers: it's just on dawn and there was a heavy dew last night, and the smell of damp campfire fills the area. The air is fresh and crisp and there's a breeze carrying pine pollen from the nearby trees. You relight the fire and throw bacon into the skillet. [The dry glass aroma is gentle bonfire smoke]. Palate: Light sweet smoke to start with on the arrival, then opening into citrus flavours and honey-cured bacon. The development has a bite of blue cheese and some soft berry notes with an emerging hint of creosote and the faintest briny touch. Finish: The palate softly segues into a smoky finish with a hint of meatiness and some pleasantly sour resin and lemon peel. Dry, mildly chilli-hot and lingering. An elegant and gracefully peated whisky - the very antithesis of a heavy-handed peat monster. A willowy, pale young thing with the confidence to take on the world and the talent to pull it off. I'd rather spend time with this than with some of the big-name Islays (many of which are getting somewhat self-satisfied and lazy these days). Benromach has been distilling a “Peat Smoke” expression since 2000, and the maturation has varied from 7-9 years. The batches differ slightly wth a slight change of profile each time. This 2004 expression was fairly typical. Benromach expressions have a different quality of smoke to those form Islay. It’s softer, warmer and less resinous – a little more like Orkney peat, but more woody than heathery. This whisky takes water well. The nose is not much changed, just a little more phenol aroma as oils are released, and the palate gains a sprightly honey and ginger edge that flows through into the finish to balance the citrus tang. Very enjoyable, this and the 15 year old are my favourite Benromach expressions so far. “Very Good” : 85/100 (4 stars)