Bunnahabhain 24 year (1987/2011) Duncan Taylor Rare Auld

Nose (neat): High proof mead, dried apples, dried pears, dried peaches, dried apricots. There are beautiful supple oak notes with an aromatic sandalwood character. The nose is quite spirity - not that there is an overt alcohol aroma, it's just one of those noses with a strong "nip" that sort of curls the nostril hairs. It's brisk, clean and powerful but also sweet and very attractive. After a few minutes, as the initial vapours burn off, it becomes deeper and more honeyed with orange oil and beeswax aromas. Lurking in the background is the tiniest wisp of maritime character. I could enjoy this nose for days. Nose (watered): A drop or two of water makes it softer and more elegant, with bouquets of flowers emerging - jonquils, roses, honeysuckle - arranged skilfully in a bowl on a heavily waxed old dresser. Stunning, but I think I prefer the neat nose even more. Adding more water takes it to a place where the nose transforms into a melange of waxy honeyed notes, that is delicious and very soothing. The dry glass aroma (neat) is entirely floral. Palate (neat): Wham! A big, forceful arrival of dried fruit and big, soft chewy tannins. It's not even slightly dry but like the nose it is spirity in a good way. Not hot, but you know for sure that you are tasting something with high abv. The development is most unusual because seemingly from nowhere a glorious bloom of honeycomb suddenly bursts forth accompanied by ginger syrup and hazelnuts. The texture is slightly oily but balanced by grippy tannins that build towards the finish. As it rests in the glass the sweet characteristics in the development become more prominent. Palate (watered): Elegant, sophisticated, poised and finely nuanced. The arrival is softened considerably and the palate changes to a tray of juicy orchard fruits, drizzled in honey. It also develops a delightful mist, testament to its non-filtered nature. Finish: Medium. Sweet and fruity, fading to light spicy cinnamon astringincy. The addition of water mutes the aftertaste to a light buzz. I was getting a little tired of tasting liqueurs and gin, and with some friends coming over this weekend to play cards it was time to dive into the stash and open a malt whisky. The Longrow Red 11 year old I opened a couple of months ago is now on its last legs, and this Duncan Taylor Bunnahabhain 24 seemed like a worthy follow-up. This is part of their "Rare Auld" series. It was distilled in 1987 and spent its entire life in the one cask before being bottled in November 2011. The outturn was 399 bottles, of which mine is number 213. I bought it in 2013 when it cost AUS$230 and it's long out of stock now but I have seen it listed for around £250 on the UK secondaries. The profile of this single cask whisky is totally different to that of the older OB Bunnahabhain whiskies I've tasted. Certainly nothing at all like the excellent 18 and 25 year olds, but equally as good. They have a far darker presentation with immense sherry and dark fruits, whereas this is light and honeyed. I don't know what the casking was but the outturn was probably too big for a hoggie, so maybe it was a sherry cask, but if so it must have been 2nd fill. Highly recommended. If you see a bottle at a good price, don't hesitate. "Excellent" : 89/100 (4.75 stars)