This has been rated highly and recommended by several here, so when I found it on a dusty local hole-in-the-wall liquor store shelf for $100 (generous given the asking price at big box stores in the states these days...) I sprang. It certainly looks pretty in the bottle and the glass, with that pinkish hue that only port casks can impart, but what's under the hood?
Let's get the scuz out of of the way first. It comes across a bit watery at 40% (proof snob, back in the house). Would love to see this even at 43% or 46% to have a bit more heft and flavor. Despite being a single malt, there's a metallic note on the nose that lingers over into the palate. It's not grain whisky, so all I can guess is bad/tired port casks? That's it. Now the good stuff (and there's plenty).
This comes at your palate bursting with flavor. Creamy malt, baking spices (particularly cloves and allspice) come out, along with ripe fruits from the wine casks (in this case, berries like strawberries and blueberries, rather than the typical stone/stewed fruits you get in Oloroso cask only matured drams). At 40%, it's dangerously drinkable, and like all Bushmills bottles I've tried, it gets better the longer the bottle is open and has time to oxidize. Bushmills is a spirit that takes air well (but not water. One drop and it all falls apart). The finish isn't particularly long, but while it's there it reminds me of strawberries and cream, or perhaps strawberry shortcake. Repeated visits reveal more subtle notes of lemon and hazelnut, and the longer I drink it, the more the port finish reveals itself in its velvety smoothness (not unlike Glenmo Quinta Ruban). Though the port finish on my bottle feels like it may have come from refill casks, it is still present and well integrated; no easy feat, as some port finishes can be easily overbearing.
This is easily a 4 to 4.25 star dram, but with some drawbacks. The metallic note lingers, and I'm hoping that the longer the bottle is open, the more that dissipates. Also, price is an issue. This is a 16 year old single malt that normally retails for around $120 in the states now. My guess is that Bushmills prices went up with the tariffs because the distillery is in Northern Ireland, which is part of the UK, and therefore subject to the same tariffs that Scotch single malt is. That being said, if you remember my earlier tirade about Lagavulin 16 being $100 now, that's still $20 less than this, and arguably a superior whisky, so between price and that weird, metallic note, I'm docking a quarter point, leaving us with a 3.75.
I got this for a good deal, so if you can find it for $80-$100, buy on sight. I'd skip paying retail for this, though. It's got lots of good, complex flavors that belie it's age, but if all you're looking for a good port finish, go for the Glenmorangie Quinta Ruban at about half the price. Cheers!
BOTTLE KILL UPDATE: As I expected, this bottle took air really well, and once it did, it went down like candy. Beautiful notes of caramel, toffee, pecans, strawberries, and that luscious port finish. I’m bumping this up to a 4, for being eminently drinkable, but still overpriced.