cascode
Reviewed
October 29, 2017 (edited October 21, 2024)
Nose: A complex and aromatic nose featuring a full, sweet malted cereal character and an aroma as of fresh clear sea air blowing over wet sand. There are some very satisfying oily fruity/floral notes as well (lychee, green grape, gooseberry) and a light floral scent like a herbal potpurri wafting from a distance. Some honeyish notes, like the smell of beeswax candles, which become stronger as it rests in the glass. Mustard and fresh-cut mint as well, and a long way in the distance there is just the faintest suggestion of smoke. Astonishingly, with all that going on the nose remains fresh and invigorating whilst simultaneously being oily and rich at the foundation.
Palate: Elegantly warm, spicy and slightly dry arrival with honeydew melon, unripe canteloupe, green apples and sultanas - mouthwatering. Sweet malty and cidery flavours begin to emerge after a moment accompanied by white pepper and a little freshly chopped stem ginger. Together with some oak notes this brings out a little tannic bitterness to balance the sweetness. The whole melange then softens gradually in the development towards a flavourful, waxy finale.
Finish: Medium long and slightly lower-key, but with a very satisfactory combination of oily/dry breakfast tea, sweet & sour spicy oak with barley sugar, and finally coconut flakes marinating in brine and seaweed. The only real fault is a tendency of the waxy-tannic aspect to drift a fraction too far into sourness.
Add water - a dash helps it to open this up. There are some passing similarities to Old Pulteney but I wouldn't call this an everyday dram. It is a very interesting and characterful whisky where the nose, palate and finish, whilst closely related and seamlessly transitioned, are all quite distinct. There is a delightful combination of marine, oily and mineral characteristics but they are in different combinations and show different facets throughout the experience.
A wonderful nose and palate, and a good finish which is just fractionally less impressive. When tasted in isolation it is tempting to rate this very high at 88 or 89, but when you taste it against independent Clynelish bottlings you see where there are some flat and ordinary aspects.
Some whiskies are a symphony - this is Thelonious Monk. Angular, unique, playful, challenging and even inspiring, and certainly never less than beautiful.
"Very Good” : 86/100 (4 stars)
100.0
AUD
per
Bottle