Deanston 23 Year Old Oloroso Matured

Nose: Gently honeyed notes riding on supple malty aromas. Some fine grassy, hay-like tones and over time walnuts and leather emerge. There is a passing similarity to middle-aged Glenfarclas. Over time the dried fruit and spice aromas (especially cinnamon and allspice) come to dominate. Water releases many floral aromas of a dusky and sensual hue - old rose, acacia, iris and jasmine - and some sandalwood (again, rather like Glenfarclas). Palate: A dry, grippy and spicy arrival that suddenly (but briefly) turns sweet with old dried fruit flavours (dates, figs, currants and sour cherries). However just as abruptly a wave of blanketing astringent spice floods in. I'm reminded strongly of walnut and banana bread with a glaze of baked bitter orange peel. As this tide of flavours subsides an unmistakable and huge presence of sherry is noticed. The palate then progresses through sweet malt, bitter/sour fruit, bittersweet dark chocolate and finally relaxes into a taste of old oak that ushers in the finish. Finish: Medium/long. Segueing seamlessly from the palate, astringently dry and highly tannic sherried notes fade slowly into a long, lingering taste of oloroso cask with black tea and strawberry jam faintly discernable. This is very much a whisky-nerd's dram and it would frighten the hell out of novices. The nose is commanding and highly expressive when neat but becomes retiring when watered. As much as I liked the floral notes that water produced, I preferred the neat nose. On the palate, water significantly tames the arrival by unfolding substantial sweetness but the follow-up wave of astringent spice is still there. The palate is more immediately approachable overall but something is also lost. The over-brewed tea note expands and brings with it a previously hidden minty presence and the strong oloroso personality steps back into the shadows. A very dry profile single malt with an exquisite nose of harmonious complexity, and a palate that almost but not quite matches. Tasted from a 30ml sample, my thanks to Aqvavitae for sending this to me all the way from Glasgow. "Good" : 84/100 (3.75)