Fettercairn 12 year 2006 (North Star)

Licht Rokerig, scherp

North Star Spirits tasting night, Sydney, 18 July 2019. Whisky #1 Nose: Mildly malty with a hint of maple syrup, lots of barley sugar and some oak but it's a rather hard and subdued nose to start with and needs water to open. This develops some attractive floral aromas (but see the notes below) but also some weird metallic notes. Palate: A clean cereal arrival that is a little hot from the high alcohol content. Some restrained white berry fruit (grape, gooseberry), icing sugar, but more than anything else - heaps of barley sugar. Water tames the alcohol heat, brings out the berry aspect more clearly over time and makes the palate creamier. Finish: Medium/short. Grainy, dry aftertaste which is sweetened and much lengthened by the addition of some water. Not a very complex whisky, but given a dash of water and some time (quite a lot of time) it improves ... up to a point. Tasted neat the nose is sweet but very tight and barley sugar is the over-riding aroma. Adding water uncovers more of a fresh grain note and the nose becomes much more flowery with time, with aromas of fresia, jonquil and honeysuckle emerging. This is when it is at its best. However there is a juncture at which things start to go horribly wrong and the nose takes on a distinct soapy smell - specifically the smell of Lux laundry soap flakes (OK you have to be my age to remember that, I guess. If the reference is obscure then substitute the aroma of lightly floral scented bathroom soap, or even dishwashing liquid, and you're close). It's neither a pleasant nor desirable aroma in a whisky. In tandem there is a smell like an aluminium baking pan scrubbed hard with steel wool. On the palate a similar transformation happens with water initially uncovering even more barley sugar, but eventually a soapy note appears there as well. Water is the key to getting the most from this whisky, but the window of enjoyment is narrow and it never really becomes a notable dram, and considering the substantial cost it's not one I'd recommend. Fettercairn has been available for a long time as a single malt, but it's not frequently encountered. The bulk of their production goes into the Whyte & Mackay blended scotches, which is probably the best place for it. This is probably the worst North Star whisky I've tasted, and in my opinion it is not worth even half the asking price. "Adequate" : 71/100 (2 stars)