cascode
Reviewed
May 2, 2019 (edited January 12, 2021)
Nose: A nicely balanced combination of malt, sherry, good quality oak, dark fruits and restrained smokiness. There are also lemongrass and stone-fruit notes that shine against the darker aromas and these amplify as it rests in the glass.
Palate: The arrival is firm, semi-sweet and malty-cereal in nature, with bitter orange marmalade at the sides. It develops very well with dark honey and subtle menthol and eucalyptus notes emerging together with a little tannic spice. It's full and oily at the beginning but the tight tannins quickly bring a sense of dryness. A raisin note appears towards the finish, and there's a nutty (Brazil nut? walnut?) presence throughout.
Finish: Medium. Fruity (figs and dates) and semi-sweet sherry with a black coffee tang to the aftertaste.
Like all big whiskies this benefits from resting in the glass - give it at least 10 minutes before tasting but nose it all the while - you can't miss how the nose changes and opens over time, becoming distinctly fruitier. Both the nose and palate have the overarching dark (almost burnt) fruitcake character that is common to all Glenfarclas. It's likely a result of the direct-fired stills and is a signature note.
It's amusingly odd that the 8-12 year old Glenfarclas expressions are so often dismissed or overlooked. I think it's partly because the distillery produces a lot of reasonably priced older bottlings and there is an assumption that the less matured ones are somehow poor in comparison. I couldn't disagree more. Also quite a few critics and commentators have remarked on the boldness of the Glenfarclas new-make and how it can take long maturation, but "can take" is not the same as "needs".
The 10 year old Glenfarclas is an assured and dignified malt that probably appeals more to a palate that is familiar with whisky than to the novice. You need to know what to look for, otherwise the character can be elusive or may even seem generic. If your last taste of a "young" Glenfarclas was a while ago at the start of your whisky journey then I'd encourage you to try one again. The only time I ever feel that this whisky is lacking is when it is directly compared with older Glenfarclas expressions in a formal tasting, and they show it up.
"Good" : 83/100 (3.5 stars)
65.0
AUD
per
Bottle