Mezcal Vago Arroqueño en Barro by Tío Rey

I was looking forward to this one for a while, and thanks to @jonwilkinson7309 , who shared a generous pour, I got to try it this evening. A bit about Arroqueno agaves: this is a huge agave plant that takes anywhere from 20-30 yrs to harvest. So, this has to put a few things in perspective: 1. Imagine the conservation efforts it has to take to wait for something to grow for 20-30 yrs, before you can cut it down and use it. You have to have foresight to just cut enough and balance it with growing new plants. 2. Unlike barley, corn or wheat, which can be raised in one season, this agave takes 20-30 yrs. so—-that’s 20-30 yrs of fighting disease, insects, and temperature. Not all will make it, far from it. 3. One more point to add as a perspective—-whiskey in cask for 30 yrs will cost you well over $300-500. More if your name is Ardbeg, Lagavulin, Laphroaig, Macallan or Balvenie. Now, an Arroqueno also takes that much time, pre-bottling, but costs a fraction of the whiskey. On to this tasting—- I’ve had the Del Maguey Arroqueno before, which I loved. This is a different animal. It’s not better or worse, just different. Whereas the Del Maguey was boxer hitting you hard, this one is the tai chi fighter—-it’s more subtle and delicate, but no less powerful. It all depends on what you like. This has a grassy herbal taste, with a sliver of smoke in the background. Just lovely...personally, I’m going to look into getting a bottle. Thanks Jon for this pour—was a great mezcal.

During a recent visit to Old Town Tequila in San Diego, the manager noticed a bottle of Del Maguey Arroqueno in my hand.  "If you like that, I have another arroqueno in the back that's even better."   Del Maguey is the only arroqueno mezcal I've had (thanks to a sample from @pbmichiganwolverine) but it's spectacular.  So I was slightly skeptical, but intrigued.  I told the manager I was interested and he retreated to the stock room, returning several minutes later with a bottle of Vago Arroqueno en Barro.  I'm familiar with Vago, having tried the excellent espadin and elote.  So I bought it. "Barro" translates to "mud" or "clay".  Here, it is descriptive of the small clay pots used for distilling, as well as the impact the clay distilling has on both the nose and palate with a solid base of earth and clay notes.   The smoke is quite light for a joven mezcal, but wonderful.  The clay and smoke are complimented by notes of agave, tropical fruit, dark fruits, and mint.   It's all wonderfully balanced. So is it better than the Del Maguey?  That's a matter of preference.  The Del Maguey is bold and powerful, deep and complex.  The Vago is rustic, earthy and far more subtle.   While I might be more likely to replace the Del Maguey, the Vago is different than any mezcal I've had and is exceptional in its own right.  The Vago team is apparently quite fanatical about the entire process, down to the type of ink used on the labels.  Vago uses some labor-intensive and time-consuming distillation techniques, and its mezcals are produced in very small batches - usually between 200 and 500 liters.  It's a true craft effort that shines.