Mortlach 22 Year (The Maltman)

I love seeing the different styles that independent bottlers can bring to a classic distillery. This isn't the usual meaty rough Mortlach, it's been tamed but not in a bad way. It harnesses the best aspects in a subtle way and results in perfect balance, mouth feel and a good dose of complexity. It would be interesting to both try another Maltman bottling and work through a bottle of this.

Nose: Fragrant and hefty, but not cloying or overly sweet. Vanilla, oak, a touch of honey. Apples, newly cut grass. Preserved citron, lemongrass, barley, toasted almonds, tobacco, leather and earth. A wonderful nose. As it develops in the glass the vanilla note starts to come more to the front, but after about 5 minutes some strong, fresh oak becomes dominant. After 15-20 minutes malt and citrus elbow through to take the leading role. [NOTE: The dry glass aroma is strong honeysuckle]. Palate: Spicy, smooth, creamy and oily - deliciously seductive and ... well, perfect really. In the development there is brine, sweet cereal, lime zest, a touch of vanilla and coconut, and oak. A hint of more assertive ginger spice with mineral notes. Quite bright and lively, even after 22 years, but no trace of burn anywhere - just a lovely, cosy warm glow. The cask choice was perfect. Finish: Medium-short, but very good. Sweet cereal trails off into mustard, arugula, citrus, walnuts and dark chocolate. A furtive taste and aroma floats about after the dram is finished - at first it seems almost metallic, but pleasant. Eventually it becomes identifiable as the faintest possible touch of smoke (but it could be barrel char). I almost always enjoy a Mortlach, and this is one of the better ones I've had. The old "Beast of Dufftown" is an infinitely mercurial chameleon - in some expressions light and fruity, in others as meaty as a trough of giblets - but this one is half-way between. Grassy, oily, woody and meaty but overall leaning towards the softer, fruity side of the distillate's profile. If only all whisky could be this good (but it's not one to give to a novice, unless you're feeling really wicked). I added two drops of water to the last couple of sips because ... science. It made little difference other than dilution. Take this one neat - it's perfect at 46% and water is just a distraction. Take one part Craigellachie, one part Clynelish and one part Springbank, and you're getting somewhere near the profile of this whisky. My original tasting was from a 30ml whisky shop sampler, and after trying it I immediately ordered a bottle. I've no idea whether it is still available anywhere but if it is, you have been alerted ... "Very Good" : 87/100 (4.25 stars)