Mortlach 22 Year (The Maltman)
The Maltman // Speyside, Scotland
Soba45Tasted November 4, 2019I love seeing the different styles that independent bottlers can bring to a classic distillery. This isn't the usual meaty rough Mortlach, it's been tamed but not in a bad way. It harnesses the best aspects in a subtle way and results in perfect balance, mouth feel and a good dose of complexity. It would be interesting to both try another Maltman bottling and work through a bottle of this.
cascodeTasted April 3, 2018Nose: Richly fragrant and hefty, but not cloying or overly sweet. Vanilla, oak, a touch of honey. Apples, newly cut grass. Preserved citron, lemongrass, barley, toasted almonds, tobacco, leather and earth. A wonderful nose. As it develops in the glass the vanilla note starts to come more to the front, but after about 5 minutes some strong, fresh oak becomes dominant. After 15-20 minutes malt and citrus elbow through to take the leading role. [NOTE: The dry glass aroma is strong honeysuckle]. Palate: Spicy, smooth, creamy and oily - deliciously seductive and ... well, perfect really. In the development there is brine, sweet cereal, lime zest, a touch of vanilla and coconut, and oak. A hint of more assertive ginger spice with mineral notes. Quite bright and lively, even after 22 years, but no trace of burn anywhere - just a lovely, cosy warm glow. The cask choice was perfect. Finish: Medium-short, but very good. Sweet cereal trails off into mustard, arugula, citrus, walnuts and dark chocolate. A furtive taste and aroma floats about after the dram is finished - at first it seems almost metallic, but pleasant. Eventually it becomes identifiable as the faintest possible touch of smoke (but it could be barrel char). I almost always enjoy a Mortlach, and this is one of the better ones I've had. The old "Beast of Dufftown" is an infinitely mercurial chameleon - in some expressions light and fruity, in others as meaty as a trough of giblets - but this one is half-way between. Grassy, oily, woody and meaty. If only all whisky could be this good (but it's not one to give to a novice, unless you're feeling really wicked). I added two drops of water to the last couple of sips because ... science. It made little difference other than dilution. Take this one neat - it's perfect at 46% and water is just a distraction. Take one part Craigellachie, one part Clynelish and one part Springbank, and you're getting somewhere near the profile of this whisky. My original tasting was from a 30ml whisky shop sampler, and after trying it I immediately ordered a bottles. I've no idea whether it is still available anywhere but if it is, you have been alerted ... "Excellent" : 4.5 stars200.0 AUD per Bottle
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