SpartaTodd
Old Pulteney 17 Year
Single Malt — HIghlands, Scotland
Reviewed
February 6, 2021 (edited July 9, 2021)
It is the best of whisky times and the worst of whisky times!
We have Distilleries capable of turning out fantastic spirit at good values like Deanston, Bunnahabhain, Talisker. While others, that used to make legendary drams, are losing their mojo like (*obligatory Macallan reference), Balblair, Highland Park and Old Pulteney...
Old Pulteney: An old, dusty distillery in North Scotland with an odd name that I dismissed as I began my recent whisky journey despite some whisky journalist giving them "whisky of the year" previously. The logo reminded me of old spice cologne (!?!). I pursued certain whiskies because all the reviews and "everyone" said they were great. Must have! A'bunadh and GlenDronach... Highland Park... Springbank, etc.
But then I started finding the hidden gems that were almost secretly revered like Kavalan Solist, Famous Grouse 18 and Balblair 1990... and these were amazing whiskys! However, I kept seeing these comments and whispers about Old Pulteney 17. That weird-sounding distillery from Wick. I heard it was no longer produced and was able to pick up 2 bottles at reasonable price and promptly put them away for 9 months.
After a while, I got a sample of Old Pulteney 12 from Europe, time to break out that OP17 that everyone raves and screams about (salty! sweet! lemon curd!) and do a comparison. The OP12 was nothing really special, very thin - the 40% abv of Europe hurt it... so I get to the OP17 and OH MY F#CKING GOD... it is amazing!!! Wow. The mouthfeel. So thick and coating! Delicious. Old Pulteney, this little old distillery, quietly making some of the best whisky in the world. But NOT ENOUGH of it!
I am still fairly new to whisky and I have allergies and I am almost alway congested to some extent so my nosing and tasting notes are always a little subdued. I try to highlight the big scents and flavors, broad strokes...
Nose: baking spices, cinnamon, light fruit - maybe citrus going into floral
Palate: Sweet, Rich and semi-viscous. A little spicy. Coats the mouth. Lemon, vanilla and a touch of brine. Mellow and refined.
Finish: Medium, baking spices and kind of creamy
This whisky really delivered in a big way. One of my favorites now along with Balblair 1990, Benrinnes, (good) Edradour, Talisker. Totally unique: I cannot think of anyother whisky like it. I was heartbroken because people were raving about the OP21 and I failed to find any (at a reasonable price). I was able to get a few more bottles of the OP17 though. I love this malt. I have not tasted the new range of Old Pulteney but it doesn't sound promising. At any rate, I finally understand what everyone was talking about. Even though there are some distilleries producing great whisky, maybe some of the best they have ever done I cannot help but lament the trend of whisky overall getting more expensive for less quality. I have only been drinking whisky for a short 2 years and I feel like I have missed out on so much. This fantastic Old Pulteney 17 is for all intents gone now, along with the 21, and the world is poorer for it. So many great whiskys at reasonable prices are going extinct all around us every day now. Many already long gone... sigh.
6 months later, I was able to procure a bottle of OP21! It is different from the 17 but also very, very good! A review for another day perhaps.
"This is what you want, isn't it? Look at it. The last of its kind. Like you and I. If you destroy it, the world will never see its kind again..." -Prince Nuada (Hellboy 2: The Golden Army)
120.0
USD
per
Bottle
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@cascode Seems line we see this story over and over. Cask quality going down, more emphasis on economics and profit. Price going up while value goes down.
@PBMichiganWolverine Yes I have and reviewed them here. I was disappointed with both quality and value but I’m probably in the minority who think so. I forgot to say earlier - I have 2 bottles of the 17 stashed away safe and sound for the future. One is getting opened on my retirement, the other is tagged for my wake.
@PBMichiganWolverine I haven’t yet. 17/21 were great. The 21 one of my all time favorites. I have an unopened Huddart. Want to try the 18 as well. But I think 17/21 have set the bar too high.
@cascode @Scott_E the old 17 and 21 were amazing, but I read the new ones are close enough to those. I’ve not tried the new versions—-but wondering if you guys have, and compared?
BTW, in 2019 I went to a very interesting masterclass held by the brand ambassador for Inver House, which owns the Pulteney Distillery. From 1961-1995 the distillery was owned by Allied Breweries, which evolved into Allied Lyons. The owners didn't spend much on upkeep but they did have sources for first grade European-oak sherry butts which were the basis of Pulteney's wood management, together with bourbon casks sourced from Hiram Walker (the previous owner) under a long-term contract. All these arrangements ceased in 1995 when Inver House bought the distillery. Although the distillery had a stockpile of the old casks if you do the math it's obvious that spirit aged in these first-grade casks must have all been used up by around 2010-15. He didn't say it explicitly, but it was clear from his comments that the change to the core range was due to changes to the spirit profile that required their blender to come up with alternate formulations.
Great review. OP21 was one of my all-time favourite whiskies and I lament its passing. If you ever manage to find a bottle of the old pre-2017 12 year old (yes, it is different to the recent batches) do a tasting of the 12, 17 and 21 in sequence - slowly, over the course of an evening. It will be one of the most rewarding and enjoyable tastings you'll ever do. To taste the way that whisky progressed and evolved through age and increasing sherry-wood maturation is worth the price of the three bottles.
As good as this is, the 21 is even better, IMO. Both are fantastic. Saddened they are no longer in production.
Fantastic review. This really is a great whisky
Great review. Odd how a good whisky can inspire our writing so.