From marvellous to meh and back again. Nearing the end of a bottle of Oban 14 yo, which got me thinking about my relationship with this whisky, for it begs to be analysed - it's either that or I find myself with too much time on my hands. Decades ago, during my initiate's foray into single malts, Oban 14 and Pulteney 12 followed that most archetypical of a novice's selection, the trinity of the Glens. Initiations drive sentimentality and sentimentality breeds subjectivity. For me, subjectivity manifests itself into a disproportionate affection for Glenfiddich 12, Glenmorangie 10 and Glenlivet 12, and that salty workhorse, Old Pulteney 12; but none for the eldest of the five, Oban 14. Oban, the distillery, has been making whisky since 1794, one of only two remaining working distilleries in the rugged western Scottish Highlands. Certainly, they've had ample time to perfect their art and it shows in the quality of their whisky. Oban 14 is a fair coloured, very well made whisky. It is elegant and restrained, aged just right for the price, viscous in the mouth but not cloying, with a hint of salty peat, just enough to remind one that Oban is a coastal town and a small port. Other than a light peppery feel at the back of the palate, the apparent lack of spice or nutty flavours, coupled with a predominance of sweet and sour fruits and a short to medium finish should make this a good candidate for an aperitif or a pleasant spring/summer evening sipper. Backtracking to the nose, there's restrained maltiness serving up a fresh fruit selection, mostly of pear, green grape and unripe banana. The light peatiness is presented as a faint smoky tendril of seaweed and brine, but you'd be forgiven for missing it, as it only serves a cameo role to the main protagonists in this dram: demi-sec white wine, black liquorice and candy shop aromatics; have you ever opened a bag of Bassetts Liquorice Allsorts? It is an appetising smell, straight from childhood, albeit one that can easily turn into 'meh' after a while, or even veer into slightly nauseating territory if you go at it for too long or too deep into the bag. And, perhaps, therein lies the crux of the matter. With some less, others more, our impression of a dram's merit can be affected by the time of day and the kind of mood we find ourselves in as we partake. Semi-dry white wine, black liquorice and sugary soft candy of Oban 14's appear to be sensitive to that; the whisky can be masterfully marvellous at one time or mediocral meh at another; inspire a second fill or be left unfinished in the glass, only to be picked up after a while and elicit wonder at why it's been left unfinished. Side note: Oban 14 is one of the original six Classic Malts of Scotland, first released in 1988 by United Distillers, now Diageo; displayed together in a row in bars and stores, the six have made their own contribution in terms of raising visibility, increasing popularity and helping to grow what is today's global single malt market.