ContemplativeFox
Barterhouse 20 Year Bourbon
Bourbon — Kentucky, USA
Reviewed
December 9, 2021 (edited December 10, 2021)
Rating: 15/23
Blind bourbon tasting.
N: Woody and very toasty. A big dry wood character with plenty of tannins, but not particularly any creosote. This doesn't seem like a particularly herbal dram. Some orange peel, a hair on the floral side. The sweetness comes out of the toastiness. I'm not particularly getting brown sugar, caramel, or vanilla. Eventually a touch of floral vanilla comes out with the orange peel, but it takes a while, and then from that I get a little caramel, but not much. There's a bit of a woody spiciness, but not much in the way of any particular spices beyond that.
The overall profile makes me think of George Dickel Bottled In Bond. And it makes me think that this is quite an old bourbon - probably in the 12 to 15 year range.
This has very nice balance and hedonism, but the complexity is only so-so.
After a really long time (more than 30 minutes), I get a little brown sugar on the nose.
P: Toasty with tannins that lead into the wood before the orange sweetness comes back around to tie it together. Some vanilla trails behind the orange. There's less richness than I'd expected and it seems like a substantial amount of the toastiness has manifested as wood instead. I think I'm getting some of that Dickel vitamin flavor too.
There's really quite a lot of tannic wood here. Unfortunately, I think it's a little over-oaked. It's still quite enjoyable, but it probably should have been removed from the barrel sooner, or possibly moved to a second barrel to enhance the vanilla and other youthful flavors.
F: The finish gets more woody and tannic. I didn't really get it on the palate, but cinnamon lingers with the dry, tannic wood long into the finish.
- Conclusion -
Side by side, George Dickel Bottled In Bond (16/23) is fuller and less tannic, but there is a substantial similarity between the two of them. This is more bitter, sort of like a somewhat watered down version of the Dickel.
Considering how similar this is to Dickel Bottled In Bond, I have to assume that this is some sort of Dickel product.
I wasn't planning to open it yet, but I have a 15 year single barrel Dickel that I think I should compare with this. OK, the Dickel 15 is a bit richer and its flavors stand out a bit more. This has more of a mineral character, with a touch more sweetness, but it's also kind of flatter. The differences are quite minuscule though; considering that the Dickel 15 was a neck pour and this sample presumably was not, I could well believe that they came from the same barrel.
Just to check my palate, I took a sip of Resilient 15 (18/23), which is also a single barrel of Dickel, to compare with these. The Resilient shows more sweetness and complexity because it is less inundated with wood. It seems to me that Resilient knows how to pick the really good barrels and what Dickel bottles itself is more so-so (well, it's still good, but a bit over-oaked).
Doing a quick side-by-sdie with Elijah Craig Small Batch (15/23), which I normally think of as decently mature and a little too tannic, the Elijah Craig is sweet and young. Side by side, the Elijah Craig has some of that eye-popping, messy sweetness that I find in many of the worst bourbons - you know, the ones that are made from bland grains and only aged 6 months. It's frankly startling. However, it isn't that my bottle of Elijah Craig has gotten younger: this is just a very old spirit.
I think that where I have to land with this is a 15. It's quite enjoyable, but also definitely flawed. I could imagine a low 16 and I can even see going down to maybe a 12 or so, but at the end of the day, I do enjoy this a fair amount, so I think it can have that 15.
A big thanks to @Bourbon_Obsessed_Lexington for sharing this one with me! It's the oldest bourbon I've tried to-date, which provides some great perspective for future tastings.
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