ISLAY SHOWDOWN 3: CASK STRENGTH DIVISION Laphroaig 10 Cask Strength vs Laphroaig Cairdeas Triple Wood vs Ardbeg Corryvreckan Tasting whiskies side-by-side is both fun and enlightening: you think you know a particular one pretty well, and when tasted next to something else, well—it can change its colors. In this, the third installment of my Islay showdown (see “NEW AND OLD ISLAY SHOWDOWN: Lagavulin 8 vs Laphroaig 10”, 7/27/22; and “ISLAY SHOWDOWN 2: HEAVYWEIGHT DIVISION”, 7/29/22), we look at three high-octane bottlings: Laphroaig Cask Strength; Laphroaig Cairdeas Triple Wood; and Ardbeg Corrvreckan. As I’ve already done Ardbeg Corryvreckan vs Uigeadail (6/2/22), I didn’t want to include both, and excluded the Oogie due to its higher sherry finish, which is slightly more atypical of Islay. I would’ve liked to have not had two Laphroaigs, but my other Islay whiskies aren’t cash strength (something I’ll need to rectify). I’m not a fan of adding water to cask strength bourbons: in fact, I never do it. There are two broad reasons for this. First is the fact that distillers themselves don’t do it. If a distiller does offer different versions of the same whisky, it is just two—the difference being only the amount of water used to dilute the cask-strength offering (if an offering even exists) to the “normal” or “standard” bottling. Let’s use Laphroaig 10 as an example: the Cask Strength (batch 013) is 57.9% ABV, while the “normal” Laphroaig 10 is simply the cash strength diluted with water to 43% ABV. If Laphroaig—or any other distiller—wanted to showcase different amounts of dilution to see how varying amounts “opens it up,” they could have a marketing field day and offer 46%, 49%, 52%, 55%, and then the normal cask strength to put these dilutions—that’s what they are—on full display. While this may be an extreme example, finding the optimal ABV (i.e., dilution) could be done behind the scenes. Laphroaig’s Distillery Manager, Barry MacAffer, could determine this to optimize the whisky’s distinct characteristic. Obviously the ideal is not the 43% ABV version: 43% is just a commonplace number amongst numerous distillers that is somewhat above the bare minimum to give an impression of “quality,” signaling that they’re not focused entirely on economics. Nor is the ideal necessarily the cask-strength version. If adding some water to cask strength whisky “opens it up,” why wouldn’t the distiller decide how much water provides the optimal complexity and flavor profile, and then offer 1) a cask-strength version for the purist, 2) a “lower end” version to maximize economics for the masses, and 3) an optimized ABV which the distiller defines as ideal (and further, this is another deft marketing stroke as it would invariably change year to year). Second, when a consumer adds water, it is being done entirely subjectively, with no rhyme or reason, whether it is dropped meticulously with a medicine dropper, or splashed by pouring a bit of water or even dipping one’s fingers in water and flicking it in. Not only is the amount of water subjective, but the amount of whisky that is being adulterated typically isn’t known either, and thus the ratio (i.e., ABV) is nothing but a guess. And don’t even get me started with ice, which is double jeopardy: not only is the amount of (frozen) water not known, but cooling the spirit dampens the flavor profile (both taste and nose). It’s simple physics: molecules in motion. Colder temperature slows them down, which diminishes whatever the whisky does have to offer. Of course, drinkers are free to imbibe as they please. Lahphroaig 10 Cask Strength Batch 013 (L10CS) First thought on nosing was apples—distilled apple resin—followed by molasses, clove, rosemary-infused grapefruit sorbet (melted to room temperature), cocoa powder, orange creamsicle (distilled nectar thereof), maple syrup, some oaky vanilla, and some balanced ethanol. There’s smoky peat, of course. And the requisite iodine and seaweed. The heat (57.9% ABV) appears again midpalate where a more medicinal characteristic pops up, and everything is put in a blender that somehow pulls everything together into an inexplicable whole. Finishes with malted barley and bacon fat. On the orgasmic spectrum. 4.75 on the Distiller scale. Laphroaig Cairdeas Triple Wood (LCTW) In contradistinction to the L10CS, this is NAS (no age statement). Much sweeter nose with smoky peat caramel, vanilla, sugared cappuccino, brown sugar, milk chocolate. This sweetness follows on the palate, where the heat is more noticeable than the L10CS: it is a couple of percentage points higher, but the multiple variations on the sweet theme doesn’t do as good a job of taming the heat as does the heterogenous complexity of the L10CS. There is a slight sherry-influenced hazelnut on the finish, along with some tannic woodiness. 4.0 on the Distiller scale. Ardbeg Corryvreckan (AC) NAS, like the LCTW. Lightest in color of the three, with a clear straw color. Surprisingly bready and barley-like in comparison to the previous two. Also smoked ham, the “Islay troika” (smoky peat, seaweed, iodine), and an underlying sweetness but all of it is subtle in comparison (did anyone ever call anything Ardbeg “subtle”?!). More high-throttle and Ardbeg-like on the palate, but lacking the ostentatiousness of the L10CS and LCTW. Finishes sweet and heat, with a little pepper. 4.0 on the Distiller scale (vs 4.5 previously). Ardbeg Corryvreckan is a well-known (and well-loved) Islay whisky. But next to these two Laphroaigs, it is not what I expected. I did a side-by-side with Ardbeg Corryvreckan and Uigeadial some weeks back (6/2/22). It’s worth repeating here what I wrote on AC: “Nose shows plenty of smoky peat, Islay iodine and salinity, Japanese nori, asphalt, and a touch of bacon fat. There is a penetrating, mouthcoating entry, adding chocolate to the mix, and with a spicy, white pepper finish. The 57.1% ABV is a nice counterweight to Corry’s full-throttle style.” Next to the two Laphroaigs, AC is a different whisky. This is my first experience with the Laphroaig 10 Cask Strength, and will not be my last. It’s the clear winner in the showdown, and it’s hard to imagine improving upon it. The Laphroaig Cairdeas Triple Wood is a very nice second, some distance back, but nicely sweet for an Islay whisky. The Ardbeg disappointed in comparison. It’s still good, but down a couple notches when last tasted against its sweeter brother, Uigeadial. N.B. All spirits tasted neat in a Glencairn glass.