Tastes

HEAVEN HILL A124 SHOWDOWN ELIJAH CRAIG BARREL PROOF A124 LARCENY BARREL PROOF A124 These are two different bourbons—Larceny is wheated, whereas Elijah Craig is not—but both are Heaven Hill products, both are January 2024 releases, both are barrel proof, and both are among my favorite quasi-available high-proof bourbons. I tasted these over the course of two days, with the requisite warm-up necessary to acclimate one’s palate to the high-test alcohol levels. ELIJAH CRAIG BARREL PROOF A124 Color is a rich mahogany (akin to Pantone 160). Nose shows stewed apples, gentle cinnamon, a dusty element, and mint, with a little chocolate covered cherry undernote. The palate has a slightly viscous mouthfeel, following with sweet corn a nice hit of vanilla, which lingers on the finish. The A124 isn’t among my favorite ECBP releases, especially following the otherworldly C923 (which I tasted briefly here to validate my thoughts). However, it has grown on me over the past two days. Many have been disappointed by the lower age statement—below the historical 12 years, and exacerbated by the C923’s 13 years and 7 months. All else being equal, I appreciate a higher age statement, but that doesn’t bias my assessment. Elijah Craig Barrel Proof A124 can be found for around $80. On a relative basis, it’s always a good value for high-quality, age-statemented, high-proof, limited-release bourbon. Would I buy it again? Yes. I attempt to find each release each year. 4.0 on the Distiller scale. 119 proof. 10-year, 9-month age statement. Non-chill filtered. LARCENY BARREL PROOF A124 Like the ECBP, Larceny Barrel Proof presents as rich, dark mahogany in terms of color (Pantone 160). The nose is warm and inviting, with butterscotch and caramel notes, hot chocolate, and a whiff of Chinese-five-spice coolness. There is a light and smooth glycerin aspect that coats the mouth, with sweet vanilla. There are no hard edges, and the alcohol is well-integrated. The back end has Nutella, oak, and espresso elements, and the hot chocolate reemerges on the finish, which has good length. The LBP A124 is very good. It’s a little less expensive than its older cousin, ECBP, and can be found for around $70. Would I buy it again? Yes. Like the ECBP, I look for each of the three releases during the year. 4.5 on the Distiller scale. 124.2 proof. 6-8 year age statement. Non-chill filtered. CONCLUSION The purpose of these Showdowns is not to establish winners and losers per se, but rather to be more of an intellectual exercise to explore the contextual aspects of bourbon aesthetics: whiskies of all types will taste differently in comparison with others. (This was taken to an extreme by Fred Minnick, when he tasted all of the bourbons in his Top 100 for 2023 in one sitting—not advisable, even when spitting, which he did. But I digress). In general, the LBP has a greater warmth, depth, and richness than its ECBP cousin. It’s on the cusp of being very, very good. For the A124 release, I prefer it to the ECBP—despite the different mashbills. Fortunately, LBP hasn’t quite caught up with ECBP amongst the bourbonati, and as a result it’s somewhat more available (and less expensive). All spirits tasted neat in a Glencairn glass.

HEAVEN HILL A124 SHOWDOWN ELIJAH CRAIG BARREL PROOF A124 LARCENY BARREL PROOF A124 These are two different bourbons—Larceny is wheated, whereas Elijah Craig is not—but both are Heaven Hill products, both are January 2024 releases, both are barrel proof, and both are among my favorite quasi-available high-proof bourbons. I tasted these over the course of two days, with the requisite warm-up necessary to acclimate one’s palate to the high-test alcohol levels. ELIJAH CRAIG BARREL PROOF A124 Color is a rich mahogany (akin to Pantone 160). Nose shows stewed apples, gentle cinnamon, a dusty element, and mint, with a little chocolate covered cherry undernote. The palate has a slightly viscous mouthfeel, following with sweet corn a nice hit of vanilla, which lingers on the finish. The A124 isn’t among my favorite ECBP releases, especially following the otherworldly C923 (which I tasted briefly here to validate my thoughts). However, it has grown on me over the past two days. Many have been disappointed by the lower age statement—below the historical 12 years, and exacerbated by the C923’s 13 years and 7 months. All else being equal, I appreciate a higher age statement, but that doesn’t bias my assessment. Elijah Craig Barrel Proof A124 can be found for around $80. On a relative basis, it’s always a good value for high-quality, age-statemented, high-proof, limited-release bourbon. Would I buy it again? Yes. I attempt to find each release each year. 4.0 on the Distiller scale. 119 proof. 10-year, 9-month age statement. Non-chill filtered. LARCENY BARREL PROOF A124 Like the ECBP, Larceny Barrel Proof presents as rich, dark mahogany in terms of color (Pantone 160). The nose is warm and inviting, with butterscotch and caramel notes, hot chocolate, and a whiff of Chinese-five-spice coolness. There is a light and smooth glycerin aspect that coats the mouth, with sweet vanilla. There are no hard edges, and the alcohol is well-integrated. The back end has Nutella, oak, and espresso elements, and the hot chocolate reemerges on the finish, which has good length. The LBP A124 is very good. It’s a little less expensive than its older cousin, ECBP, and can be found for around $70. Would I buy it again? Yes. Like the ECBP, I look for each of the three releases during the year. 4.5 on the Distiller scale. 124.2 proof. 6-8 year age statement. Non-chill filtered. CONCLUSION The purpose of these Showdowns is not to establish winners and losers per se, but rather to be more of an intellectual exercise to explore the contextual aspects of bourbon aesthetics: whiskies of all types will taste differently in comparison with others. (This was taken to an extreme by Fred Minnick, when he tasted all of the bourbons in his Top 100 for 2023 in one sitting—not advisable, even when spitting, which he did. But I digress). In general, the LBP has a greater warmth, depth, and richness than its ECBP cousin. It’s on the cusp of being very, very good. For the A124 release, I prefer it to the ECBP—despite the different mashbills. Fortunately, LBP hasn’t quite caught up with ECBP amongst the bourbonati, and as a result it’s somewhat more available (and less expensive). All spirits tasted neat in a Glencairn glass.

RANDOM HAZMAT SHOWDOWN 1792 FULL PROOF TOTAL WINE SINGLE BARREL SELECT JACK DANIELS SINGLE BARREL BARREL PROOF Ladies and gentleman, I am overdue. Life calls, etcetera. For my audience of eight, mea culpa. I like to think of myself as a stats guy. As Sergeant Joe Friday would say, “Just the facts, ma’am.” (I’ve delivered facts in spades with that reference alone). While facts and stats are my bread and butter, if I were to hazard an outright guess, I’d bet that the mean demographic of Distiller users is someone like me: A guy unwilling to admit that he is likely on the back nine of life, and having experienced both birdies and bogies before the turn, finds time to enjoy the view on the way to the finish, even if he is always keeping score. 1792 FULL PROOF TOTAL WINE SINGLE BARREL SELECT Clear dark orange mahogany color, akin to Pantone 153. Close inspection of the subtle nose reveals strawberries, toasted oak, burnt caramel, and vanilla. Mouthfeel has a little glycerin, and the high-proof ethanol announces its presence on entry, walking and then stomping toward the back and greeting some mulled cider en route. The heat continues on the finish, with a supporting role from chocolate covered cherries, some oak, and vanilla. As a purist, I’m a lover of high-proof whiskey. It’s unadulterated, or nearly so, and the resultant need to sip—when taken neat, as I do—requires more time and coerces more contemplation, which enhances the overall experience. But higher proofs can be more difficult to differentiate than lower-proof whiskies due to the higher alcohol content; the nose, taste, and mouthfeel have to meet the higher ABV on its own robust terms. I like the 1792 FP, but it lacks balance. There’s a lot of heat—to be expected, of course—but there’s no overt characteristics in its flavor or olfactory profile that set it apart. Where the 1792 FP is more differentiated is in terms of relative value; it can be found for around $50 at retail. This is good, not great, bourbon. Would I buy it again? Yes. 3.75 on the Distiller scale. 125 proof. NAS. Non-chill filtered. JACK DANIELS SINGLE BARREL BARREL PROOF Color is a dark and brooding pure mahogany, a shade darker than the 1792 (Pantone 159). The first impression on the nose is not one of olfactory descriptors but rather tactile ones: there is an effusiveness, warmth, and fullness that first appear, shepherding notes of peanuts, peanut brittle, BBQ sauce, and a little brown sugar. The mouthfeel has a similar weight to the 1792 on entry, and the alcohol is better integrated, despite the higher proof. Sweet creamed corn leads the way. The finish is surprisingly soft: the alcohol is there as it should be, but held in check, and again there is a tactile sensation that enhances the atypical flavor profile. The finish displays a soft oakiness, an even softer and subtle cotton-candy sweetness, and some vanilla. Overall, the profile is more savory than sweet. The JDSBBP does a better job distinguishing itself than does the 1792 FP. This is immediately apparent on the nose: it doesn’t exhibit the typical bourbon descriptors like caramel, toasted oak, and vanilla that come at you, but rather peanuts (typical for Tennessee Whiskey, yes) and BBQ sauce. Jack Daniels Single Barrel Barrel Proof can be found for around $65—just $15 more than the 1792 BP. Would I buy it again? Yes. 4.25 on the Distiller scale. 129.4 proof. NAS. Charcoal filtered per the standard Lincoln County Process. CONCLUSION Aside from the color and high ABV, these whiskies don’t have too much in common. While the 1792 FP comes across as an overpowered Camry, the JDSBBP is on the threshold of being very good: it is fuller, richer, smoother, and has a greater depth of flavor. The charcoal-filtered “Lincoln County process” delivers on its promise to mellow the sharp edges. The JDSBBP not only has greater complexity on the nose, but it also has greater depth of flavor, a longer finish, and a superior whiskey experience. All spirits tasted neat in a Glencairn glass.

RANDOM HAZMAT SHOWDOWN 1792 FULL PROOF TOTAL WINE SINGLE BARREL SELECT JACK DANIELS SINGLE BARREL BARREL PROOF Ladies and gentleman, I am overdue. Life calls, etcetera. For my audience of eight, mea culpa. I like to think of myself as a stats guy. As Sergeant Joe Friday would say, “Just the facts, ma’am.” (I’ve delivered facts in spades with that reference alone). While facts and stats are my bread and butter, if I were to hazard an outright guess, I’d bet that the mean demographic of Distiller users is someone like me: A guy unwilling to admit that he is likely on the back nine of life, and having experienced both birdies and bogies before the turn, finds time to enjoy the view on the way to the finish, even if he is always keeping score. 1792 FULL PROOF TOTAL WINE SINGLE BARREL SELECT Clear dark orange mahogany color, akin to Pantone 153. Close inspection of the subtle nose reveals strawberries, toasted oak, burnt caramel, and vanilla. Mouthfeel has a little glycerin, and the high-proof ethanol announces its presence on entry, walking and then stomping toward the back and greeting some mulled cider en route. The heat continues on the finish, with a supporting role from chocolate covered cherries, some oak, and vanilla. As a purist, I’m a lover of high-proof whiskey. It’s unadulterated, or nearly so, and the resultant need to sip—when taken neat, as I do—requires more time and coerces more contemplation, which enhances the overall experience. But higher proofs can be more difficult to differentiate than lower-proof whiskies due to the higher alcohol content; the nose, taste, and mouthfeel have to meet the higher ABV on its own robust terms. I like the 1792 FP, but it lacks balance. There’s a lot of heat—to be expected, of course—but there’s no overt characteristics in its flavor or olfactory profile that set it apart. Where the 1792 FP is more differentiated is in terms of relative value; it can be found for around $50 at retail. This is good, not great, bourbon. Would I buy it again? Yes. 3.75 on the Distiller scale. 125 proof. NAS. Non-chill filtered. JACK DANIELS SINGLE BARREL BARREL PROOF Color is a dark and brooding pure mahogany, a shade darker than the 1792 (Pantone 159). The first impression on the nose is not one of olfactory descriptors but rather tactile ones: there is an effusiveness, warmth, and fullness that first appear, shepherding notes of peanuts, peanut brittle, BBQ sauce, and a little brown sugar. The mouthfeel has a similar weight to the 1792 on entry, and the alcohol is better integrated, despite the higher proof. Sweet creamed corn leads the way. The finish is surprisingly soft: the alcohol is there as it should be, but held in check, and again there is a tactile sensation that enhances the atypical flavor profile. The finish displays a soft oakiness, an even softer and subtle cotton-candy sweetness, and some vanilla. Overall, the profile is more savory than sweet. The JDSBBP does a better job distinguishing itself than does the 1792 FP. This is immediately apparent on the nose: it doesn’t exhibit the typical bourbon descriptors like caramel, toasted oak, and vanilla that come at you, but rather peanuts (typical for Tennessee Whiskey, yes) and BBQ sauce. Jack Daniels Single Barrel Barrel Proof can be found for around $65—just $15 more than the 1792 BP. Would I buy it again? Yes. 4.25 on the Distiller scale. 129.4 proof. NAS. Charcoal filtered per the standard Lincoln County Process. CONCLUSION Aside from the color and high ABV, these whiskies don’t have too much in common. While the 1792 FP comes across as an overpowered Camry, the JDSBBP is on the threshold of being very good: it is fuller, richer, smoother, and has a greater depth of flavor. The charcoal-filtered “Lincoln County process” delivers on its promise to mellow the sharp edges. The JDSBBP not only has greater complexity on the nose, but it also has greater depth of flavor, a longer finish, and a superior whiskey experience. All spirits tasted neat in a Glencairn glass.

RANDOM IRISH WHISKEY SHOWDOWN CLONAKILTY PORT CASK FINISH IRISH WHISKEY LIMAVADY SINGLE BARREL SINGLE MALT IRISH WHISKEY YELLOW SPOT 12-YEAR SINGLE POT STILL IRISH WHISKEY This “random Showdown” review is a bit incongruous. The Clonakilty and Limavady are both NAS, while the Yellow Spot carries a 12-year age statement; the Limavady is a single malt, while the Clonakilty and Yellow Spot are blends (the former sourced from different distilleries, and the latter a single-sourced blend of various cask finishes). The Clonakilty and Limavady are marketed at similar price points, while the Yellow Spot is typically triple that. The common denominator is the fact that each is a proper Irish Whiskey—and any common denominator is good enough for another Showdown. The purpose of these Showdown reviews is not to declare a winner per se, but rather to better understand some of the subjectivity of whisk(e)y appreciation as a function of context and comparison. CLONAKILTY PORT CASK FINISH IRISH WHISKEY Burnt-orange amber in color, the second darkest (or lightest) of the group, akin to Pantone 144. Fruity nose shows apples, peaches, sweet cherries, a little honey, and some vanilla. The palate is sweet and gently creamy—a little like strawberry ice cream—while remaining light on its feet. There’s a touch of bitterness on the back end—adding complexity rather than negativity—before transitioning to a dash of white pepper and lingering honey and vanilla on the finish. I’ve never had Clonakilty before—I’d never even heard of it—and it was a pleasant surprise (no, I’m not channeling Emily Dickinson with all of the em dashes). From the label, I was expecting something heavier, given the port finish. The whiskey has a little weight, but overall it’s quite fruity. This Clonakilty expression (there are several) can be found for $50-55. Would I buy it again? Yes. 3.75 on the Distiller scale. 43.6% ABV. Non-chill filtered. Batch # 038. 7,000 bottles produced. Unclear if E150a coloring is added. LIMAVADY SINGLE BARREL SINGLE MALT IRISH WHISKEY In the glass, shows as dried hay and light amber, and is the lightest in color of the three whiskies in this Showdown (Pantone 143). Initially, there’s an brief herbaceous aspect (parsley? Bell pepper?) which blows off. Distinct banana chip note, along with Circus Peanuts marshmallow candy, some Cheerios cereal, and after much back-and-forth between the three whiskies in this Showdown, some butterscotch. There’s also a dank, damp wood note that is not offputting per se but rather conjures up notions of Irish Whiskey aged in underground cellars. Some nice oiliness on the palate, with more of the circus peanuts, before a peppery note kicks in along with the same Circus Peanuts, some not unpleasant bitter espresso, and a touch of toffee on the finish. The Limavady is the only single-malt, single-barrel Irish whiskey in this group. Subjectively, it comes across as “tighter” than the other two—and concomitantly, more intellectually challenging to describe. The single-barrel designation means there can be bottle variation from year to year, and even intra-year. One cannot plot a trendline against a single data point, but my experience with this data point will coerce me to seek out another data point in due time. At $40-50, the Limavady is a relative value, especially considering its uniqueness. Would I buy it again? Yes. 3.5+ on the Distiller scale. As a side note: take a look at the picture accompanying the review. The Limavady has the most difficult stopper cap that I’ve ever experienced in any ingestible this side of a child-proof prescription cap. It is solid glass with a silicone seal ring, and requires the supplicant to work his or her ass off to get to the internals. I had to hold it in both hands, and then push up on the ventral side with both thumbs in order to free it. Distinctive, but very high maintenance. So I checked the website, which states that the bottle is “paying homage to the original 1750s design…Featuring an old-school ‘blob top.” I’m an old-school guy myself, but the perceived beauty of this so-called blob top is analogous to the skinned-knuckle aesthetics of a Ford Model A hand crank. 46% ABV. Barrel # 0143. Bottle # 746 of 846. Unclear if E150a coloring is added, but this one is the lightest of the three. YELLOW SPOT 12-YEAR SINGLE POT STILL IRISH WHISKEY Color is a deep burnt orange, the darkest of the three (Pantone 159). Tasted alongside the others, the nose is like a cozy blanket. It evokes orange oil, sandalwood, fruitcake, mulled cider, sandalwood again, some vanilla, and something strawberry—think Strawberries Romanoff at Sparks in NYC (which has Grand Marnier in the whipped cream). This whiskey is soothing and calming, like an olfactory deep-tissue massage. The palate is viscous and coats the tongue; it is slightly woody, with vanilla, yellow raisins, and a reemergence of the orange oil on the nose. The proof is nicely integrated, with a gentle reminder of its presence on the back end, finishing with a pleasant woody vanilla note. As soon as the Yellow Spot touches your lips, there’s little doubt that you’re drinking something special. I’ve now had the Green, Yellow, Blue, and Red Spot Irish whiskies. Yellow Spot is delicious, and it should be, given the price (around $150—when it can be found). It’s expensive. But as good as it is, in my book, it only ranks third in that list (Blue #1, Red #2, Yellow #3, Green #4), which is a testament to the entire line. Would I buy it again? (This was a gift). Yes. I’d like to always have all the Spots (Green, Yellow, Blue, Red) on hand. 4.5+ on the Distiller scale. 46% ABV. Non-chill filtered. E150a coloring added. CONCLUSION This was an enlightening Showdown. Each whiskey has distinct attributes that were reinforced in the presence of the others. The Clonakilty is the fruitiest and sweetest; the Limavady a bit tigther and more focused, in the same way that a young cabernet sauvignon can be (though whiskey, of course, will not soften with age as a cab would). The Yellow Spot is in another class: it is confident and authoritative and grabs your attention, in comparison to the other two. All spirits tasted neat in a Glencairn glass. N.B.: The entirety of this review was written while listening to Dave Brubeck’s “Time Out.” on Apple Music. I saw Dave Brubeck in concert about 35 years ago, either before or immediately after their tour of the USSR—which (much to my chagrin) dates me as no spring chicken. But I do recall tapping my feet in 5/4 time to “Take Five.”

RANDOM IRISH WHISKEY SHOWDOWN CLONAKILTY PORT CASK FINISH IRISH WHISKEY LIMAVADY SINGLE BARREL SINGLE MALT IRISH WHISKEY YELLOW SPOT 12-YEAR SINGLE POT STILL IRISH WHISKEY This “random Showdown” review is a bit incongruous. The Clonakilty and Limavady are both NAS, while the Yellow Spot carries a 12-year age statement; the Limavady is a single malt, while the Clonakilty and Yellow Spot are blends (the former sourced from different distilleries, and the latter a single-sourced blend of various cask finishes). The Clonakilty and Limavady are marketed at similar price points, while the Yellow Spot is typically triple that. The common denominator is the fact that each is a proper Irish Whiskey—and any common denominator is good enough for another Showdown. The purpose of these Showdown reviews is not to declare a winner per se, but rather to better understand some of the subjectivity of whisk(e)y appreciation as a function of context and comparison. CLONAKILTY PORT CASK FINISH IRISH WHISKEY Burnt-orange amber in color, the second darkest (or lightest) of the group, akin to Pantone 144. Fruity nose shows apples, peaches, sweet cherries, a little honey, and some vanilla. The palate is sweet and gently creamy—a little like strawberry ice cream—while remaining light on its feet. There’s a touch of bitterness on the back end—adding complexity rather than negativity—before transitioning to a dash of white pepper and lingering honey and vanilla on the finish. I’ve never had Clonakilty before—I’d never even heard of it—and it was a pleasant surprise (no, I’m not channeling Emily Dickinson with all of the em dashes). From the label, I was expecting something heavier, given the port finish. The whiskey has a little weight, but overall it’s quite fruity. This Clonakilty expression (there are several) can be found for $50-55. Would I buy it again? Yes. 3.75 on the Distiller scale. 43.6% ABV. Non-chill filtered. Batch # 038. 7,000 bottles produced. Unclear if E150a coloring is added. LIMAVADY SINGLE BARREL SINGLE MALT IRISH WHISKEY In the glass, shows as dried hay and light amber, and is the lightest in color of the three whiskies in this Showdown (Pantone 143). Initially, there’s an brief herbaceous aspect (parsley? Bell pepper?) which blows off. Distinct banana chip note, along with Circus Peanuts marshmallow candy, some Cheerios cereal, and after much back-and-forth between the three whiskies in this Showdown, some butterscotch. There’s also a dank, damp wood note that is not offputting per se but rather conjures up notions of Irish Whiskey aged in underground cellars. Some nice oiliness on the palate, with more of the circus peanuts, before a peppery note kicks in along with the same Circus Peanuts, some not unpleasant bitter espresso, and a touch of toffee on the finish. The Limavady is the only single-malt, single-barrel Irish whiskey in this group. Subjectively, it comes across as “tighter” than the other two—and concomitantly, more intellectually challenging to describe. The single-barrel designation means there can be bottle variation from year to year, and even intra-year. One cannot plot a trendline against a single data point, but my experience with this data point will coerce me to seek out another data point in due time. At $40-50, the Limavady is a relative value, especially considering its uniqueness. Would I buy it again? Yes. 3.5+ on the Distiller scale. As a side note: take a look at the picture accompanying the review. The Limavady has the most difficult stopper cap that I’ve ever experienced in any ingestible this side of a child-proof prescription cap. It is solid glass with a silicone seal ring, and requires the supplicant to work his or her ass off to get to the internals. I had to hold it in both hands, and then push up on the ventral side with both thumbs in order to free it. Distinctive, but very high maintenance. So I checked the website, which states that the bottle is “paying homage to the original 1750s design…Featuring an old-school ‘blob top.” I’m an old-school guy myself, but the perceived beauty of this so-called blob top is analogous to the skinned-knuckle aesthetics of a Ford Model A hand crank. 46% ABV. Barrel # 0143. Bottle # 746 of 846. Unclear if E150a coloring is added, but this one is the lightest of the three. YELLOW SPOT 12-YEAR SINGLE POT STILL IRISH WHISKEY Color is a deep burnt orange, the darkest of the three (Pantone 159). Tasted alongside the others, the nose is like a cozy blanket. It evokes orange oil, sandalwood, fruitcake, mulled cider, sandalwood again, some vanilla, and something strawberry—think Strawberries Romanoff at Sparks in NYC (which has Grand Marnier in the whipped cream). This whiskey is soothing and calming, like an olfactory deep-tissue massage. The palate is viscous and coats the tongue; it is slightly woody, with vanilla, yellow raisins, and a reemergence of the orange oil on the nose. The proof is nicely integrated, with a gentle reminder of its presence on the back end, finishing with a pleasant woody vanilla note. As soon as the Yellow Spot touches your lips, there’s little doubt that you’re drinking something special. I’ve now had the Green, Yellow, Blue, and Red Spot Irish whiskies. Yellow Spot is delicious, and it should be, given the price (around $150—when it can be found). It’s expensive. But as good as it is, in my book, it only ranks third in that list (Blue #1, Red #2, Yellow #3, Green #4), which is a testament to the entire line. Would I buy it again? (This was a gift). Yes. I’d like to always have all the Spots (Green, Yellow, Blue, Red) on hand. 4.5+ on the Distiller scale. 46% ABV. Non-chill filtered. E150a coloring added. CONCLUSION This was an enlightening Showdown. Each whiskey has distinct attributes that were reinforced in the presence of the others. The Clonakilty is the fruitiest and sweetest; the Limavady a bit tigther and more focused, in the same way that a young cabernet sauvignon can be (though whiskey, of course, will not soften with age as a cab would). The Yellow Spot is in another class: it is confident and authoritative and grabs your attention, in comparison to the other two. All spirits tasted neat in a Glencairn glass. N.B.: The entirety of this review was written while listening to Dave Brubeck’s “Time Out.” on Apple Music. I saw Dave Brubeck in concert about 35 years ago, either before or immediately after their tour of the USSR—which (much to my chagrin) dates me as no spring chicken. But I do recall tapping my feet in 5/4 time to “Take Five.”

RANDOM IRISH WHISKEY SHOWDOWN CLONAKILTY PORT CASK FINISH IRISH WHISKEY LIMAVADY SINGLE BARREL SINGLE MALT IRISH WHISKEY YELLOW SPOT 12-YEAR SINGLE POT STILL IRISH WHISKEY This “random Showdown” review is a bit incongruous. The Clonakilty and Limavady are both NAS, while the Yellow Spot carries a 12-year age statement; the Limavady is a single malt, while the Clonakilty and Yellow Spot are blends (the former sourced from different distilleries, and the latter a single-sourced blend of various cask finishes). The Clonakilty and Limavady are marketed at similar price points, while the Yellow Spot is typically triple that. The common denominator is the fact that each is a proper Irish Whiskey—and any common denominator is good enough for another Showdown. The purpose of these Showdown reviews is not to declare a winner per se, but rather to better understand some of the subjectivity of whisk(e)y appreciation as a function of context and comparison. CLONAKILTY PORT CASK FINISH IRISH WHISKEY Burnt-orange amber in color, the second darkest (or lightest) of the group, akin to Pantone 144. Fruity nose shows apples, peaches, sweet cherries, a little honey, and some vanilla. The palate is sweet and gently creamy—a little like strawberry ice cream—while remaining light on its feet. There’s a touch of bitterness on the back end—adding complexity rather than negativity—before transitioning to a dash of white pepper and lingering honey and vanilla on the finish. I’ve never had Clonakilty before—I’d never even heard of it—and it was a pleasant surprise (no, I’m not channeling Emily Dickinson with all of the em dashes). From the label, I was expecting something heavier, given the port finish. The whiskey has a little weight, but overall it’s quite fruity. This Clonakilty expression (there are several) can be found for $50-55. Would I buy it again? Yes. 3.75 on the Distiller scale. 43.6% ABV. Non-chill filtered. Batch # 038. 7,000 bottles produced. Unclear if E150a coloring is added. LIMAVADY SINGLE BARREL SINGLE MALT IRISH WHISKEY In the glass, shows as dried hay and light amber, and is the lightest in color of the three whiskies in this Showdown (Pantone 143). Initially, there’s an brief herbaceous aspect (parsley? Bell pepper?) which blows off. Distinct banana chip note, along with Circus Peanuts marshmallow candy, some Cheerios cereal, and after much back-and-forth between the three whiskies in this Showdown, some butterscotch. There’s also a dank, damp wood note that is not offputting per se but rather conjures up notions of Irish Whiskey aged in underground cellars. Some nice oiliness on the palate, with more of the circus peanuts, before a peppery note kicks in along with the same Circus Peanuts, some not unpleasant bitter espresso, and a touch of toffee on the finish. The Limavady is the only single-malt, single-barrel Irish whiskey in this group. Subjectively, it comes across as “tighter” than the other two—and concomitantly, more intellectually challenging to describe. The single-barrel designation means there can be bottle variation from year to year, and even intra-year. One cannot plot a trendline against a single data point, but my experience with this data point will coerce me to seek out another data point in due time. At $40-50, the Limavady is a relative value, especially considering its uniqueness. Would I buy it again? Yes. 3.5+ on the Distiller scale. As a side note: take a look at the picture accompanying the review. The Limavady has the most difficult stopper cap that I’ve ever experienced in any ingestible this side of a child-proof prescription cap. It is solid glass with a silicone seal ring, and requires the supplicant to work his or her ass off to get to the internals. I had to hold it in both hands, and then push up on the ventral side with both thumbs in order to free it. Distinctive, but very high maintenance. So I checked the website, which states that the bottle is “paying homage to the original 1750s design…Featuring an old-school ‘blob top.” I’m an old-school guy myself, but the perceived beauty of this so-called blob top is analogous to the skinned-knuckle aesthetics of a Ford Model A hand crank. 46% ABV. Barrel # 0143. Bottle # 746 of 846. Unclear if E150a coloring is added, but this one is the lightest of the three. YELLOW SPOT 12-YEAR SINGLE POT STILL IRISH WHISKEY Color is a deep burnt orange, the darkest of the three (Pantone 159). Tasted alongside the others, the nose is like a cozy blanket. It evokes orange oil, sandalwood, fruitcake, mulled cider, sandalwood again, some vanilla, and something strawberry—think Strawberries Romanoff at Sparks in NYC (which has Grand Marnier in the whipped cream). This whiskey is soothing and calming, like an olfactory deep-tissue massage. The palate is viscous and coats the tongue; it is slightly woody, with vanilla, yellow raisins, and a reemergence of the orange oil on the nose. The proof is nicely integrated, with a gentle reminder of its presence on the back end, finishing with a pleasant woody vanilla note. As soon as the Yellow Spot touches your lips, there’s little doubt that you’re drinking something special. I’ve now had the Green, Yellow, Blue, and Red Spot Irish whiskies. Yellow Spot is delicious, and it should be, given the price (around $150—when it can be found). It’s expensive. But as good as it is, in my book, it only ranks third in that list (Blue #1, Red #2, Yellow #3, Green #4), which is a testament to the entire line. Would I buy it again? (This was a gift). Yes. I’d like to always have all the Spots (Green, Yellow, Blue, Red) on hand. 4.5+ on the Distiller scale. 46% ABV. Non-chill filtered. E150a coloring added. CONCLUSION This was an enlightening Showdown. Each whiskey has distinct attributes that were reinforced in the presence of the others. The Clonakilty is the fruitiest and sweetest; the Limavady a bit tigther and more focused, in the same way that a young cabernet sauvignon can be (though whiskey, of course, will not soften with age as a cab would). The Yellow Spot is in another class: it is confident and authoritative and grabs your attention, in comparison to the other two. All spirits tasted neat in a Glencairn glass. N.B.: The entirety of this review was written while listening to Dave Brubeck’s “Time Out.” on Apple Music. I saw Dave Brubeck in concert about 35 years ago, either before or immediately after their tour of the USSR—which (much to my chagrin) dates me as no spring chicken. But I do recall tapping my feet in 5/4 time to “Take Five.”

RANDOM BOURBON SHOWDOWN ROCK HILL FARMS BOURBON HENRY MCKENNA 10-YEAR BOTTLED-IN-BOND BOURBON I’m beginning to revisit whiskies that I haven’t reviewed in some time, and found that I hadn’t written notes on either Rock Hill Farms or Henry McKenna since May 2022. Time for another Showdown. ROCK HILL FARMS BOURBON Clear amber, a shade lighter than the Henry McKenna (Pantone 144). The nose leads with a distinct apple note (more like apple juice following the McKenna), along with vanilla wafers, sweet hay, mulled cider, rosin, alcohol, oak, a touch of menthol. Lightly viscous mouthfeel, with oak and vanilla on the palate. The 100-proof alcohol makes its presence felt, and the finish shows not-insignificant espresso bitterness, chai spice tea, and lingering oak. Rock Hill Farms bourbon is something of a paradox. It starts out gently with that apple note, then finishes tight with a bitter streak that is both espresso-like (a positive) and akin to woody tannins (not so positive). The effect is more disappointing than off-putting. RKF is difficult to obtain, however, and if you can find a bottle, expect to pay north of $400 at today’s prices (I traded for the ones I have some time ago). I’m kind of glad I have a couple bottles left—perhaps I’ll be able to trade them for something else. To be fair, these are single-barrel offerings, which means that there may be more bottle variation than normal. Perhaps my barrel(s) weren’t as good as others. Would I buy it again? No. It’s nice to have in a collection, but having tried it now on multiple occasions, I wouldn’t seek it out. 3.5 on the Distiller scale (vs. 3.75 on my previous review, 5/4/22). 100 proof. NAS. HENRY MCKENNA 10-YEAR BOTTLED-IN-BOND BOURBON Orange mahogany; a touch darker than the Rock Hill Farms (Pantone 152). Chocolate-covered cherries, cocoa powder, plums, light clove, oak, some raisins, brownies, and a whiff of spearmint. Very sweet on the palate with more cherry and oak. The 100-proof is very well integrated; the finish is long, with copious pipe tobacco caressed in vanilla, along with some char. I’ve loved Henry McKenna from my first sip years ago. It’s complex; has great depth of flavor; wears a 10-year age statement; and carries a higher-than-average proof. If you look hard enough, it can be found for around $75, though I typically see it around $100. Would I buy it again? Yes, especially at the retail price. It’s a value considering the experience it delivers. 4.25 on the Distiller scale (vs 4.5 on my previous review, 5/24/22). 100 Proof. 10-year age statement. CONCLUSION Despite their similar proofs, these two bourbons are very different. The Rock Hill Farms starts out with a wonderfully evocative nose but goes downhill from there—a decline exacerbated by the initial high expectations. The Henry McKenna is not quite at the “great” level (I rated it 4.5 on my previous review), but it satisfies on the nose, palate, and finish. Showdown reviews aren’t intended to be about winners and losers per se, but rather to serve as exercises to illustrate what context—in these cases, different whiskies side-by-side—can do to sensory perception. But I didn’t get anything particularly different from either of these when tasted next to each other. Rather, my opinions were reinforced. All spirits tasted neat in a Glencairn glass.

RANDOM BOURBON SHOWDOWN ROCK HILL FARMS BOURBON HENRY MCKENNA 10-YEAR BOTTLED-IN-BOND BOURBON I’m beginning to revisit whiskies that I haven’t reviewed in some time, and found that I hadn’t written notes on either Rock Hill Farms or Henry McKenna since May 2022. Time for another Showdown. ROCK HILL FARMS BOURBON Clear amber, a shade lighter than the Henry McKenna (Pantone 144). The nose leads with a distinct apple note (more like apple juice following the McKenna), along with vanilla wafers, sweet hay, mulled cider, rosin, alcohol, oak, a touch of menthol. Lightly viscous mouthfeel, with oak and vanilla on the palate. The 100-proof alcohol makes its presence felt, and the finish shows not-insignificant espresso bitterness, chai spice tea, and lingering oak. Rock Hill Farms bourbon is something of a paradox. It starts out gently with that apple note, then finishes tight with a bitter streak that is both espresso-like (a positive) and akin to woody tannins (not so positive). The effect is more disappointing than off-putting. RKF is difficult to obtain, however, and if you can find a bottle, expect to pay north of $400 at today’s prices (I traded for the ones I have some time ago). I’m kind of glad I have a couple bottles left—perhaps I’ll be able to trade them for something else. To be fair, these are single-barrel offerings, which means that there may be more bottle variation than normal. Perhaps my barrel(s) weren’t as good as others. Would I buy it again? No. It’s nice to have in a collection, but having tried it now on multiple occasions, I wouldn’t seek it out. 3.5 on the Distiller scale (vs. 3.75 on my previous review, 5/4/22). 100 proof. NAS. HENRY MCKENNA 10-YEAR BOTTLED-IN-BOND BOURBON Orange mahogany; a touch darker than the Rock Hill Farms (Pantone 152). Chocolate-covered cherries, cocoa powder, plums, light clove, oak, some raisins, brownies, and a whiff of spearmint. Very sweet on the palate with more cherry and oak. The 100-proof is very well integrated; the finish is long, with copious pipe tobacco caressed in vanilla, along with some char. I’ve loved Henry McKenna from my first sip years ago. It’s complex; has great depth of flavor; wears a 10-year age statement; and carries a higher-than-average proof. If you look hard enough, it can be found for around $75, though I typically see it around $100. Would I buy it again? Yes, especially at the retail price. It’s a value considering the experience it delivers. 4.25 on the Distiller scale (vs 4.5 on my previous review, 5/24/22). 100 Proof. 10-year age statement. CONCLUSION Despite their similar proofs, these two bourbons are very different. The Rock Hill Farms starts out with a wonderfully evocative nose but goes downhill from there—a decline exacerbated by the initial high expectations. The Henry McKenna is not quite at the “great” level (I rated it 4.5 on my previous review), but it satisfies on the nose, palate, and finish. Showdown reviews aren’t intended to be about winners and losers per se, but rather to serve as exercises to illustrate what context—in these cases, different whiskies side-by-side—can do to sensory perception. But I didn’t get anything particularly different from either of these when tasted next to each other. Rather, my opinions were reinforced. All spirits tasted neat in a Glencairn glass.

I’ve been exploring some Irish Whiskies of late, and when I read in @stephaniemoreno ‘s profile that her go-to dive-bar whiskey is Bushmill’s Black Bush, I decided to give it a try on this New Year's Eve, before heading out with friends. Color is a dull khakied amber (Pantone 142). Nose of golden raisins, apple pie, brown sugar, a little orange oil, ripe carambola, and ripe banana. The mouthfeel has a gentle quality that rolls around on your tongue; the palate shows light sherry, and some sugared vanilla. On the finish there’s a touch of woody tannic bitterness, along with more vanilla. I tried Bushmill’s Black Bush because @stephaniemoreno states in her profile that it’s her go-to dive bar whiskey. I can’t disagree with that. It has some age; is finished in sherry casks; and is quite drinkable, if a bit simple. But dive bars—which I love—aren’t about complex whiskies. They’re about other things. And if the next one I’m at has it, I’ll likely order it. Bushmill’s Black Bush can be found for $40. Would I buy it again? Yes. It’s not a particularly good value—especially considering the bare-minimum 40% ABV—but it does seem to fill a niche at the moment. 3.25 on the Distiller scale. 40% ABV. 8-year age statement (not on label; per company website). E150a coloring added. All spirits tasted neat in a Glencairn glass.