Richard-Davenport
Oban 18 Year
Single Malt — Highlands, Scotland
Reviewed
September 18, 2023 (edited September 21, 2023)
OBAN SHOWDOWN
Oban 14
Oban Distiller’s Edition
Oban 18
Oban sometimes gets a bad rap because of its gentleness (I say this in particular about Oban 14), which leads some to proclaim it as a “beginner’s” scotch—as if an approachable whisky is mutually exclusive from one that could be enjoyed by a more experienced imbiber. Whisky afficionados shouldn’t conflate gentleness with simplicity, which Oban 14 is not; rather, it is subtle and refined, and requires some attention to tease out its complexity. Perhaps the Oban Distiller’s Edition, which was first released about 25 years ago, and the Oban Little Bay, which was first released about eight years ago, are responses to the market leaning towards power rather than finesse. But I digress.
Oban 14
Color is a clear version of Pantone 138 (I have no affiliation with Pantone, but am using it in an attempt to achieve a little more visual precision). The nose is pear paradise: pear purée, pear nectar, pear tart. Then saline, hay, some very light peat, and a subtle not-quite-smokiness that is perhaps closer to a cured meat, like speck. The palate has a creamy mouthfeel, with sweet honey, and a floral gardenia quality, if the smell of that flower could be tasted. There is a long finish with salt, a pinch of pepper dust and some spicy oak. Joyous. 43% ABV. 4.25 on the Distiller scale.
Oban Distiller’s Edition
I’ve always enjoyed the sherry-finished Distiller’s Editions of Diageo’s single-malt whiskies. Color is the darkest of the three, nearer to Pantone 152. But this is not due to the sherry aging, as the sherry here is Fino, which is far lighter than the more commonly used Olorosso. The Distiller’s Edition is a weightier expression, occupying a sort of middle ground between the 14 and 18 in nose, palate, and finish. The nose is near to a peach cobbler, with a reminder of breakfast bacon continuing to waft through the kitchen. The palate maintains a light glycerin, and salty sweetness continues on the finish. 2021 bottling. Identical 43% ABV. 4.25 on the Distiller scale.
Oban 18
Color is a touch darker than the Oban 14; more like Pantone 145. This is a fuller, rounder version of the Oban 14—but at the expense of the 14’s vibrancy, not unlike an aged wine. What was once a bouquet of fruity pears has morphed into a cozy mélange of baked pears and applesauce, sprinkled with brown sugar. The palate is creamy like the 14, with a sweetness less honey and more sorghum, and a finish with fine pepper more muted than the 14, along with fine leathery dryness. Only four extra years in a cool, damp climate, but the difference is noticeable. If Oban is a feminine whisky, this is an older version of the same beautiful young woman; each has their charms. Identical 43% ABV. 4.25 on the Distiller scale.
On the whole, I prefer the younger Oban 14 over the Distiller’s edition and its older 18-year expression. The 14 drinks as if it’s at the height of its charms; its two older siblings aren’t as lithe and sprightly.
N.B.: All spirits tasted neat in a Glencairn glass.
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