Richard-Davenport
Mars Iwai Tradition
Blended — Japan
Reviewed
September 25, 2023 (edited October 11, 2023)
After reading a review of this whisky by @Jose-Massu-Espinel earlier today, I recalled that I had a bottle which I'd not yet reviewed. I believe I purchased this a few years back when the Japanese whisky boom was just getting started. It was a not-inexpensive impulse buy; the bottle still has the $63 price tag affixed.
Color is a clear Pantone 144 (I have no affiliation with Pantone, but am using it in an attempt to achieve a little more visual precision). The nose shows some malt, sweet apples, quince, cut grass, and an ethanol/paint element. Palate has a slightly viscous mouthfeel, with a corn sweetness that continues on the finish, plus a pinch of white pepper and a little smoke at the very back. I actually do like this more than I had recalled; the whisky has an interesting combination of bourbon and scotch characteristics.
But I dislike bare-minimum 40% ABV whiskies on principle. The economics of it are diametrically opposed to artisanal craftsmanship. Minimum-standard ABV (which 40% is) is not some magic level that achieves an optimum flavor profile; it is entirely an economic decision, using the maximum amount of water dilution to achieve a whisky designation and maximize production. Granted, there are many whiskies which I very much like which are only marginally higher at 43%; but at least that is a token gesture towards a not-total focus on economics.
There's also the issue of a nonstandard bottle. It does hold 750ml, but the slightly bulbous bottom seems to show some mountainous profile around the base, apparently signifying the fact that this is Japan's highest distillery at roughly 2,600 feet. The corresponding shoulders seemingly display some sort of liquid rivulets, akin to the "legs" that one can see after swirling whisk(e)y or wine. Whisky shelves are crowded, to be sure. But the path to consumer loyalty has nothing to do with the bottle or label.
Would I buy it again? No. There are no hard edges, and I've had whiskies that are far worse. But there's no reason to use it in a cocktail at only 40% ABV when numerous cheaper and higher-proof options abound, and while it's not simple per se, it's not unique enough to merit keeping on hand. Would I buy it at a higher proof and some additional disclosure? Perhaps. 3.0 on the Distiller scale.
40% ABV.
N.B.: All spirits tasted neat in a Glencairn glass.
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