Richard-Davenport
Hibiki 21 Year
Blended — Japan
Reviewed
October 11, 2023 (edited November 22, 2023)
I’ve been a Hibiki fan for a long time. A few years back, I bought numerous bottles of Hibiki 12. I loved drinking it, but as it increased in price and was ultimately discontinued because it ran out, I traded several bottles I had in inventory for other whiskies that I’d been unable to find. I wished I still had a bottle or two, but sadly, they’re all gone. I’ve had the Harmony, of course, which is readily available (if overpriced). I used to have a bottle of the Hibiki 17, which I adored, but it is also gone, much to my chagrin (insert sad tearful emoji here).
My only previous experience with Hibiki 21 was at an incredible night at Milroy’s in London just as Covid was getting underway (pic below). This bottle used in this tasting is on loan from a generous friend.
Color is a clear and rich Pantone 130. The nose is forthright, as if it anthropomorphically wants to shake your hand (or nose), greeting you with an almost-pungent soy-vinegar dumpling sauce, sandalwood, brown sugar, coconut, orange oil, a cured-meat-soppressata element, some vanilla, almond croissant, and an aroma that evokes the incense I used to burn when I lived in Korea decades ago. Sweet Lord Jesus! I want to nose this all night. Palate has just the right amount of viscosity, with honey and sweet candied orange joining the party. The finish is long, prefaced with a mild spice and continuing with marzipan and vanilla. Rich, mellow, and sophisticated—I’m not too fond of that term as a descriptor, but it is apt in this case.
The soy-vinegar dumpling sauce is pervasive and foundational. I nosed it several times over a half hour and reached the same conclusion. It’s somewhat analogous to a tangy barbecue sauce note—something that I’ve noted a few times in other whiskies—but that probably seems offputting to the three people that read this review. That soy-vinegar element is the basso continuo upon which the rest of the olfactory concerto is grounded.
Hibiki 21 typically retails for well north of $1,000, if you can find it. Would I buy it? Yes—after I win the lottery. 5.0 on the Distiller scale—for what it’s worth, this is just the second perfect score I’ve ever given (the other being 2019 William Larue Weller (reviewed June 30, 2022). I understand that Suntory produces a 30-year Hibiki; but I’ve yet to see that one in person.
43% ABV.
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@PBMichiganWolverine I believe this bottle is fairly recent. I was loading up on the 12 six or so years ago and bought my 17 shortly thereafter. Had never had any prior to that, but I've loved every one. The normal Harmony, of course is good but not in the same class as you know.
@Richard-Davenport yeah, and that 2nd bottle I opened some years back when the price inflated to $400. I figured “can’t get any worse”, and I shared with a few folks here. Wondering if the modern Hibiki is the same quality from years back ?
@PBMichiganWolverine Those were the days, huh? I wish I'd gotten some more of the 17 when I got it as well.
@Slainte-Mhath Thank you. Wow, the 30! Glad to hear that you liked the 21 better, because I don't know if I'll ever get to the 30. Would love to do that flight at Yamazaki myself!
@Slainte-Mhath @Richard-Davenport years ago, I bought the 21 for $120-150. Had a bottle and immediately bought another. Now , the way prices are, I can’t imagine buying it.
@Richard-Davenport Excellent review. I had a complete flight of Hibiki at Yamazaki distillery a couple of years ago, including Hibiki 30. The 21 was the clear winner, and I blew my remaining travel budget on buying a bottle before I left Japan. It remains the best blend I have tasted and reviewed. Slainte!
@pkingmartin Thank you and cheers to you as well! Glad you've been able to have both the 17 and 21. They are both dream pours for me as well.
@Richard-Davenport Wonderful review over this dream pour!!! I’ve found that tangy barbecue sauce note in many drams and always really enjoy it. I was fortunate that a friend had a bottle of this and the 17 which are both just world-class and surprisingly rich whiskies at just 43% ABV. It’s a shame these bottles are priced so high today but certainly one to look out for a dram from a generous friend or well priced bar. Cheers!