Sydney Whisky Show May 20th 2023. Whisky #30 Nose: Smoked herring; fish traps on an old wooden pier; asphalt roads near the sea with farms and haystacks on the other side. Flowers and aromatic herbs (fennel, mint) growing on the wayside. Lemon oil, treacle (!) and chocolate. Over time as it sits, and with the addition of a little water, the peaty side gains complexity with smoked meats and smoky red-berry aromas arising. A very good nose with no trace of the 50%+ ethanol presence intruding. Palate: Exquisite texture, oily, and satisfying like a well-grilled kipper. Peat smoke, asphalt, medicinal grade creosote, black pepper, TCP (! - hey, is this actually Laphroaig in drag?). Cough expectorant, glacé lemon and glacé cherries, freshly grated nutmeg, smoked salmon, grilled citrus wheels (ah, no it’s definitely Ardbeg). Caramel flavoured tar! The texture lingers and with water it loses nothing but develops a more creamy quality. Finish: Medium/long. Tar, pepper, liquorice, dark chocolate with lingering peaty citrus. Peat is the unquestioned star of the show here but subjectively this is not a loud whisky with a high level of peating. It is actually quite reserved but has so much assurance and depth from its oily texture that it seems more heavily peated than it really is. There is complexity and nuance throughout the nose and palate and the 50.8% abv strength is able to carry character and body without being obtrusive. Technically this is pretty much a perfect peated whisky (in my opinion anyway) and it drinks as more mature than 8 years old. It has genuine character without needing to shout and I love that. In hindsight this was the second best whisky I tasted on the day and I was very pleased to be able to find a bottle. Incredibly, when it was available this cost half as much as the decidedly ordinary Ardcore expression. No, I don’t comprehend that either. I would be delighted to see this become a permanent addition to the Ardbeg core range. It exceeds the Wee Beastie and is right up there with the perennially wonderful 10 year old, but with a different balance. Recommended. “Excellent” : 88/100 (4.5 stars)