It’s the Redbreast challenge: can anything be better than their 12yo cask strength? Hefty price tag aside, the dram seems innocuous enough: orangey-amber, smelling of hay, honey and just a hint of turpentine. The flavour, though, is so stunning in its length and complexity it’s difficult to unravel it all. Less fiery than the 12yo, it doesn’t call for water but benefits from a drop anyhow. Peachy sweetness is followed by dried fig fruit, then darker notes still: black licorice, pipe tobacco, spiced rum. Fabulous though it is, I have to admit it: I’d rather have four bottles of 12yo CS than one of this. Then again, each sip of this extraordinary Irish whiskey lasts so long, the bottle will probably last me a lifetime.