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Mortlach 15 Year Distillery Labels (Gordon & MacPhail)
Single Malt — Speyside, Scotland
Reviewed
August 23, 2018 (edited May 27, 2020)
Nose: Rich and sweet, like Sugar Frosties (a tooth-decaying breakfast cereal for kiddies). Iced doughnuts, sweet marmalade, apricots, ginger snap biscuits, tangellos and mandarin orange. It's a melange of warm cereal sweetness and fruity malt that trips the light fantastic with fleet-footed aplomb, avoiding any cloying notes. Alongside the fruity notes there are savory, meaty and vegetal aromas and a very nice medium sherry influence - just a hint. What a lovely nose!
Palate: A perfectly balanced arrival, treading a taught high-wire spanning sweetness and spiciness with the skill of a master aerialist. Ginger, orange, cardamom, cinnamon, cumin, and a bushel of dried fruits. Just wonderful. Underneath is a hearty lamb tagine, simmering in lemon and apricot slices. Drool. YES! This is what Mortlach should taste like. A touch drying, but in the most adorable manner imaginable. A slight chocolaty dry malt hint that pinches everything together, like a neat Cornish pasty. The texture is perfection - so precisely oily that it does not seem to be so.
Finish: Medium/long, it flows on from the development and fades gloriously into a vibrant sunset. There's even a little touch of mustard spice in the tail. You will not realize how long this finish is, the aftertaste is so subtle, I guarantee.
I've discussed this whisky with my mate from across "the ditch", Soba45, of late so I thought it was time for a proper review. This whisky has incredible presence and authority, but is simultaneously soft and appealing. For me it is the embodiment of David Gilmour's guitar playing, where the silence means as much as the notes. Stately and poised, with class, balls, authority and verve. That's the blues defined. What a great introduction to single malts this would be for a newcomer. I weep for those who will never experience it - it is like Springbank 10, but with sophistication and élan.
If you want to know the deal with all the hype surrounding Mortlach and why old whisky geeks keep blathering on about it - try this whisky. It's a constantly produced licensed bottling, so almost a core range product.
"Very Good" : 87/100 (4.25 stars)
140.0
AUD
per
Bottle
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@Generously_Paul I had not seen that release - they've completely redone the packaging, but whether that has any bearing on anything I don't know. The other thing is the new OBs that will be available soon - the 16 year is rumoured to be very good.
@cascode The Whisky Exchange has a 2018 release. I’d rather try to find one from 2016 since I can plainly see it made a fan out of you. Independent bottlings can vary so much I’d rather not gamble on a different batch.
@Generously_Paul No, the one on which the review is based is from batch 160172, bottled on 17 March 2016. I bought it in November last year. I also have two bottles bought recently and they are both batch 170796, bottled 8 June 2017. Interestingly, the earlier bottle is slightly darker than the two recent purchases. Not by much, but side-by-side you can tell. Whether this means any difference taste-wise I can't say as I've not broached the recent bottles, and don't plan to for a long time. If you are looking in the store and want to check, the batch date and number is printed at the base of the bottle on the back side. If you do manage to find a 2016 batch I'd recommend snapping it up.
@cascode is this the 2018 release?
@ScotchingHard Yes, Mortlach in IBs seldom disappoints, unlike the official bottlings. There is a 22 year old from Maltman that is better than this, and probably one of the best whiskies I’ve ever tasted. Still available I think and probably around US$175
I saw this for 125 USD, but decided to go big and got the 25year for 250. Haven't opened it yet, but from this it sounds promising. IBs are the only way to go with Mortlach. My favorite so far has been a Duncan Taylor Octave D1997/B2014
Yes, this is an absolutely amazing release.