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Old Pulteney 12 Year
Single Malt — Highlands, Scotland
Reviewed
February 26, 2020 (edited April 9, 2020)
Old Pulteney tasting event, Sydney, February 26 2020, Whisky #1
[This was my first taste of the new Old Pulteney 12 in its redesigned label.]
Nose: Floral, fruity and fragrant cereal, vanilla, a small notion of briny breeze. Somewhat spirity. Adding water brings out a little more cereal initially, mutes the spirity quality and over time some light honeyed tones develop.
Palate: Mildly honeyed and waxy with a touch of brine on the arrival. The development brings out citrus fruit, mainly lemon and grapefruit, and some grassy, biscuit notes. There is some sweetness to balance but also a definite briny astringency. Adding water develops hot spicy notes. The texture is dry but not thin.
Finish: Medium. Waxy fruit and a little brine.
It’s three years since I last tasted Old Pulteney 12, and this is the first time I’ve tasted it since the distillery did their range overhaul and introduced new packaging. This is similar to the old 12 year, but there have been changes. Whether this is down to natural profile drift or a specific factor I couldn’t say. It’s still 100% bourbon matured in a racked warehouse (generally using re-coopered ex-Buffalo Trace casks as has been the case for a long time).
The palate now reminds me slightly of Clynelish 14, but it’s nowhere as waxy or demonstrative. Kind of diluted Clynelish-lite, let’s say. It has much the same profile as the old expressions, but it’s like the brine and crispness has been turned down several notches. Some might argue that the new version is a little more elegant – the finish is certainly longer and the palate is a little richer, but it's just not as alive.
When I reviewed this previously I gave it 3.5 stars, now it's down to 3. Hmm.
“Above Average” : 81/100 (3 stars)
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[Original Distiller review, 14 August 2017.
This is a tasting of Old Pulteney 12 in the old packaging]:
Nose: A breezy maritime start like a crisp light wind blowing in from the sea. Fruity notes like a citrus and apple juice smoothie, with just a little pineapple and half a banana blended in. Light malty cereal aromas. [The dry glass aromas are honey, cereal and subtle smoke].
Palate: Even more maritime than the nose, it's akin to eating a bowl of muesli and stewed fruit with a drizzle of Manuka honey while standing on a pier with a briny onshore breeze blowing occasional wafts of soot from someone's coal fire (but it's not really a "smokey" whisky). There's also some citrus and nutty, oily, mineral flavours. It's a complex profile but initially seems to be simple, I think because it is well balanced but dry rather than sweet, with an unmistakable briny note.
Finish: Short and dry with a briny and slightly cereal taste that lingers and makes you crave another dram.
This is one of my favourite whiskies, and probably my very favourite daily dram. It's friendly and approachable but also has some complexity, and I often pour it for novices when they want to move on from "starter" whiskies.
A little water brings out more sweet honeyish notes on the palate that perfectly balance the signature saltiness. Recommended, but don't add more than a few drops as it's very easy to drown.
It's compelling and easy to drink, and once you acquire the taste you will always keep a bottle in the house. Amazingly it is also quite affordable.
"Good" : 83/100 (3.5 stars) [AUD$80 in 2017]
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80.0
AUD
per
Bottle
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@Slainte-Mhath Just found it and fast-forwarded to the rating: 83, wow even lower than I guessed. I'll watch it right through later.
@Slainte-Mhath No, I missed that one - thanks for the heads-up, I must watch it. I'll take a guess that he dropped the score to around 85.
@cascode I suppose you saw ralfy's review of the new OP12. He was disappointed, after rating the old version about 90 points in the past.
Haven't tried the new version yet. I am curious to compare as well. Nice review.