Tastes
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Nose: Rich, strong, pungent and oily with notes of coal and cinders - like the firebox on a steam-powered locomotive. There’s also masses of sherry, dark fruit, lemon, vanilla, tarred rope, espresso and spices, backed up by cedarwood, both fresh-hewn and burning. An aroma of frying herring, cooked on the stoker's shovel over the firebox (yes, they used to do that in the old days, on the Mallaig steam trains). Palate: For a fraction of a second the arrival is sweet, rounded and fruity - then the locomotive comes hurtling into the station, cloaked in billowing soot and steam. Asphalt, over-brewed lapsang souchong, preserved lemons, grapefruit, olives, licorice, oysters and a touch of burnt honey. That's just the arrival. As it develops everything broadens and becomes richer, with the sherry influence cutting through the smoke. Dark bitter chocolate infused with hot cinnamon and ginger. Orange, raisins, currents and dates swimming in malt. The smoke keeps re-asserting itself. Finish: The finish ... is eternal. Like a pile of smoldering tarry rags, you'll be sensing it 24 hours later as dark, almost burnt, caramel and peat-reek dwindle into the aftertaste. A magnificent thing, but maybe too intense for everyday tasting - I like to share it with friends occasionally, but for an everyday smoky dram I prefer a more relaxed pace. When it was first released this whisky caused quite a stir in the community and in my opinion it was an outstanding 5-star dram. Since then it has diminished a little in impact, and I have the feeling the sherry casks they are using are not as good as they once were, however it’s still a very good (and very powerful) whisky. “Very Good” : 87/100 (4.25 stars)150.0 AUD per Bottle
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Nose: Honey, nutty and mild mixed dried fruit aromas against a sherry backdrop. There is a little spiciness and after resting for a while a very pleasant oak note emerges accompanied by the faintest touch of smoke (or maybe it’s just barrel char). Palate: A semi-sweet honey and fruit arrival that develops into nutty and milk chocolate flavours. There is also some malted cereal and a pleasant oak note as it unfolds. Finish: Medium/short. Soft and relaxed, vanilla, caramel and a little spice in the aftertaste but no bitterness. There is a light touch to the presentation and a sense of good refill oak, but it’s a rather old-fashioned style of blend that is designed for easy drinking. It delivers just enough complexity and depth to be satisfying. There’s nothing challenging about it, but neither is it bland or dull - in fact it has good balance. It also repays being given a chance to rest in the glass and some very nice notes become apparent over time. Don’t hurry this whisky or just use it as a mixer – it’s good as a sipping blend. The only big downside is the price, which puts it in competition with several superior blends and more than a few very good single malts. If it cost half the price it could be my go-to everyday scotch blend, but as it is I don't often buy it. “Above Average” : 81/100 (3 stars)100.0 AUD per Bottle
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Chivas Regal 18 Year Gold Signature
Blended — Scotland
Reviewed April 20, 2017 (edited November 24, 2019)Nose: Caramel, brown sugar, raisins, some orange, a little vanilla. Palate: Caramel and malt, dark fruits. Even more caramel and toffee comes out as it opens. Some chocolate and a hint of oak and gentle spice. The texture is full and satisfying. Finish: Medium/short. Sweet and simple. This is a slightly above average blend that is let down by the amount of caramel and toffee in both the nose and palate. There’s nothing specifically bad, it’s just a bit bland and heavy and the finish is lacking. It works well as a mixer because the flavours are thick and don't get drowned by soda or soft drink, but frankly I'd expect to be able to say more about a blend that is this expensive. It's just a little under-achieving and with care it could be a 4 star blend. "Above Average" : 82/100 (3.25 stars)95.0 AUD per Bottle -
Nose: Vanilla, coconut, soft fruit (peaches, apricots), and brown sugar. There's an elusive fragrant wood note overlaying everything, but it's more like cedarwood or sandalwood than oak. Palate: An arrival that is uncommonly silken, smooth, luscious and sensual. As it evolves flavours of crème brûlée, white marshmallows and coconut pudding emerge, balanced by a candied cereal and warm cinnamon and ginger spice note. Finish: Medium/long. Vanilla and cream with some spiced cereal in the aftertaste. A very seductive and, yes, hedonistic whisky that is one of the stars of the Compass Box core range. Together with Spice Tree and Peat Monster it defines John Glaser's goal for his brand and the concept of an artisan blend. The recipe changes depending on what is available but it rarely comprises more than four grain whiskies, all of very high quality. You could almost call this "essence of top-class oak in a solution of premium whisky". ADDENDUM - One year later and I'm just finishing off the bottle I opened for this review. It has oxidized with considerable grace and there is greater heavy mellowness now than when it was first opened but the whisky still has that characteristic Compass Box freshness. It's a good grain whisky blend, but the official score seems a bit inflated to me. "Good" : 85/100 (3.75 stars)100.0 AUD per Bottle
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BenRiach Sherry Matured 12 Year (Discontinued)
Single Malt — Speyside, Scotland
Reviewed March 12, 2017 (edited January 20, 2020)Nose: An interesting nose of intense sherry, leather, old oak, cherries and cedar wood. There's also an orange aroma in the background, both orange juice and orange zest. Palate: Lots of sherry, both sweet and dry, on the arrival together with dried fruits. It's a well defined and assured palate and the development brings out shortbread, caramel, raisins, walnuts, bitter dark chocolate, espresso and a little vanilla. Finsih: Surprisingly short. Dry sherry and dark bittersweet chocolate, and a mild gingery spice in the aftertaste. Very nice neat but it can take water with dignity and a dash marries everything together wonderfully, bringing out more dark chocolate and malty notes balanced by increased softness to the sherry. For some reason it always makes me crave a mild cigar. The only fault is that it seems to suffer adverse oxidization effects. Once my bottle was down to about half way a bitter walnut and leather character started to become slightly too prominent. It's a cut above the average but not an amazing whisky, however it's certainly worth a try by anyone who enjoys sherry matured or finished whisky. "Above Average" : 81/100 (3 stars)110.0 AUD per Bottle -
Glen Elgin 12 Year
Single Malt — Speyside, Scotland
Reviewed March 9, 2017 (edited November 19, 2020)Nose: Malty with herbaceous and floral honey notes, like Tasmanian leatherwood honey. Citrus hints and even a little briny character. There is also a delightfully rich aroma of top quality oak casks. In fact, that's the nose in essence - quality floral honey and quality oak. Yummy! Palate: Smooth and sweet, but not sickly sweet, with light honey and cereal coming to the fore later. A very friendly buttery chocolate and cream quality. Finish: Medium. Chocolate, malt, oatcakes and a little mild spice. A delicious hidden gem. When first opened the sweet palate makes this almost dangerously drinkable, but with some oxidization the initial floral honey sweetness veers towards a more subtle and elegant spicy sweetness, which is most pleasant. It would be just another floral, fruity whisky were it not for the full, meaty character that is underpinning everything. Not a hint of peat, but a delicate background whiff of barrel-char and some masterful cask maturation. "Very Good" : 85/100 (4 stars)90.0 AUD per Bottle -
Jura Origin 10 Year
Single Malt — Islands, Scotland
Reviewed December 28, 2016 (edited February 27, 2023)Nose: Salt, malt and honey. The briny character becomes more apparent as you focus on it, giving the nose an overall zesty nature. There are leathery and grassy aromas as well. Palate: Nutty, salty and a touch spicy in the arrival. Cereal and a light sweetness that starts to turn bitter as it develops. The palate also increases in intensity as it develops but it gains an overly briny character that intrudes too much for my liking. Finish: Medium/Long: After peaking, the palate starts a slow slide out and fades away with bitter walnuts and brine. Not particularly complex or interesting, in fact rather 2-dimensional. The brine aspect is very prominent and seems to become more so over time. It's acceptable but I wouldn't recommend it or buy it again. Jura has always been a problem for me as they have consistency issues. I don't mind variation between batches (in fact I welcome it) but the variation needs to be centered around a defined character. Jura seems to produce wildly differing batches of the same expression, and there is even more variation between expressions - it's like there are a dozen "house styles" of new-make, and none is particularly enjoyable. "Adequate" : 73/100 (2.25 stars)85.0 AUD per Bottle
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