Tastes

This is the first of a series of reviews I'm doing of a dozen affordable blended scotch whiskies. Nose: An initial ethanol and malt profile with some light honey, faint vanilla, and fruity notes. The fruit is somewhat citrus but best described as like the aroma of tinned fruit salad. Palate: A hot alcohol arrival with some accompanying metallic spice. This develops into a malty sweetness. Finish: Short as can be. The malty sweetness from the palate turns bittersweet and slightly metallic at the end. This is a very spirit-driven and grain-heavy blend with a thin and somewhat distant character. I’d wager that the malt content in this blend is quite low. It’s not actually unpleasant but there is so little going on with which you can engage that it’s not worth drinking neat. I did not detect any peatiness or smoke during tasting, but you can smell faint smoke on the dry glass, so it is there as a foundation - but it might just be the burnt metal note some young column-still grain whisky seems to have. As a mixer it is serviceable, if rather bland, but I wouldn't bother because at the price there are better blends. In some respects it is similar to modern Teacher's Highland Cream, but thankfully it avoids the bitter/sour character of that blend. "Adequate" : 72/100 (2 stars)

Nose: Malty and earthy with pungent oily, cereal and fruit notes and some interesting spice - ginger, and allspice (but mild). There is an aroma of camphorwood which I don't think I've ever sensed from a whisky before. The dry glass is all dark malt extract and honey aromas. Palate: Robust arrival underpinned by the same characteristics found in the nose - earthy, cereal, spicy and vegetal. A very nice mouthfeel which is just oily enough to be slightly mouthcoating. Finish: Medium. Veering into some hot tannins and finally swinging to sweetness in the aftertaste, much in the way ale is bitter then sweet. This is a bourbon-matured "earthy" Speysider like Mortlach (although that usually also has a sherry influence) rather than being of the sweet fruity persuasion like so many others of that region. It is also reminiscent of a young Hazelburn in some ways, and if you like that whisky (or Ben Nevis, Oban, or even Loch Lomond) then you'll most likely enjoy this whisky. After having a bottle open for some months, and now about 2/3 full, I've found that it has oxidized with considerable grace. Everything has rounded out but without losing character or becoming thick and heavy. The initial hot bitterness in the finish has become sweeter, which was unexpected, followed by a spicy note. It's an unusual profile and an acquired taste. "Good" : 83/100 (3.5 stars)

Nose: OK but not particularly exciting - some fruity, caramel toffee and vanilla notes but it's all rather "distant". There is a definite ethanol note like grain whisky, which is odd as there should be none here. Palate: Sweet and malty with reasonable body to start with - not a bad arrival - but it quickly veers towards bitter and spicy at the back and sides of the tongue and seems to fall apart very rapidly. Not entirely unpleasant, but it feels somewhat juvenile and undisciplined. There are figgy and date notes, and Demerara and barley sugar along for the ride. Reasonable mouthfeel, but lacking in body. This is a more spirit than oak driven whisky. I think there are some tired old casks lurking about in this blend that let the side down. It's enjoyable enough neat, if not spectacular, but in the final analysis it strikes me as "thin" and lacking in character in just about every respect. A very average young malt blend, and as a mixer it is a bit absent and bland. It has pretty obviously been engineered to fill a market niche and I can see it appealing to those who like whisky cocktails but don't like the taste of neat whisky so much. I wouldn't bother buying it again. "Average" : 76/100 (2.5 stars)

Nose: Fragrant and inviting, with aromas of malt, honey, cereal, sherry, hazelnuts, and fudge. Some subtle briny maritime notes and a slightly herbal edge. Very mellow. Palate: The arrival is soft, featuring sherry and nuts - hazelnuts, sweet fresh walnuts, brazil nuts. In the development a strong ale-like flavour arises that is reminiscent of wash. Very malty and yeasty with molasses, chocolate and dried fruits (raisins, dark cherries, dates, figs). The only downside is a slight bitter/sour flavour. Finish: Sweet sherry flavours fade to a dry briny finish with echoes of the ale-like flavours. A pleasant whisky, unpeated unlike most Islay whiskies, and unlike most of the new NAS expressions from Bunnahabhain. The only criticisms I can mention are that it has a tendency to oxidise and gain sourness over time. "Good" : 83/100 (3.5 stars)

Nose: Fruity and fragrant, with honey, vanilla, banana and peaches all apparent. There are also herbal and cereal aromas and, surprisingly, only a moderate oak presence. Palate: The arrival is a whole bowl of fruit salad, toasted muesli, nuts and cream dressed with mellow spices. Quite gentle and delicate and again there is a restrained oak touch. Finish: Medium/long. The palate merges slowly into the aftertaste. The foundation is solid and very fine oak which gives structure and purpose to what might otherwise be an over-sweet dram. The oak presence is a focus, but not an unbalancing one. This whisky is precisely positioned between Asyla and Spice Tree in character - the soft, light and luscious waxy flavours of Asyla and hints of the robust fullness of Spice Tree. I like it and it is good value. It is more expensive than many other blends, but you're getting a premium product intended for sipping. Try tasting some of the mainstream blends after this and you'll immediately see how dull, syrupy and lifeless a lot of them are - even the good ones. Actually the biggest competition against this whisky is Compass Box's own Spice Tree, which is bigger in just about every respect and much the same price, but this maybe has the edge if you prefer a little less spice and more of a cereal personality. "Good" : 84/100 (3.5 stars)

Nose: Brisk and fruity with a waxy edge balanced by icing sugar. Citrus, cereal grains, pears, peaches, melon and apple. There is the faintest note of smoke with a breezy maritime character [This is more noticeable on the dry glass aroma, which is waxy-honeyed and lightly smoky]. Palate: The arrival is all malt and gristy cereal with orange citrus zest notes. As it develops some grassy and orchard fruit flavours come to the front together with barley sugar. There is also a slight tannic waxiness that adds a firm edge to the palate, but it is balanced by yeasty sweetness. Finish: Short. Malty cereal flavours that fall away quickly. A very, very slight smoke on the aftertaste. The best description I can think of for this whisky is "sweetly delicious cereal". Fruit and untoasted grain is the main presence – citrus, pears, peaches, rice flakes. It veers towards being too sweet but is held back by a the light tannic quality. There is an unmistakable presence of Teaninich malt in this blend and the grain whisky component is very fine, as is the oak influence. It has a lot of subtle things going on behind the simple facade that are easy to miss. It certainly stands up to neat tasting. "Above Average" : 83/100 (3.5 stars)

Nose: Sharp peat smoke, woodsmoke, tobacco, wet hay, lemon zest, unripe melon, sage. Palate: A grassy, herbal arrival almost like herbal cough lozenges. The smoke follows in the development along with some pepper and mild chilli, vanilla and chewing tobacco. There’s a definite oily and rich mouthfeel, balanced by a certain degree of astringency. Finish: Medium/long. Ashes, rock salt, pepper and mild tannin. It has an interesting smokiness, quite unlike any coastal or maritime smoke from the islands, but to be honest I find it more interesting than enjoyable. The first time I tasted this I thought that it was what you'd get if you took Laphroaig Quarter Cask but replaced the iodine/medicinal notes with a spicy herbal character. An interesting and characterful whisky that is very well crafted but may not appeal to every palate. "Good" : 84/100 (3.75 stars)

Nose: Initially there is a strong grassy citrus and vanilla combination. Also some light cereal notes, pears, stone fruits, hard candy and a luscious light oily aroma. It's refreshing and sprightly, but by no means lightweight - lean but strong like an Olympic gymnast. [The dry glass aroma is faint fruit and sweets]. Palate: More forceful than I was expecting. Crisp, clean and refined arrival focusing on citrus/cereal notes. A creamy, buttery mouthfeel with a hint of waxy sourness, and some brisk spicy tannins (weak tea and a hint of star anise). Finish: Medium. Juicy with a flavour of white grapes and gristy cereals. A fruity and cereal centred spirit, barely a hint of the casks, which I bet were exclusively ex-bourbon. Initially I thought this might be a "summery" type of light whisky, but there is more going on than that. It bears a slight similarity to both Old Pulteney 12 year old and Clynelish 14, but it is fresher and more fruity than either of those. The distillery is in the eastern highlands, south-east of Speyside and about half way between Aberdeen and Dundee, but in character this is much more like a north-east highland malt. If you are a fan of sherry bombs or sticky, sweet spirit, or wood influence ... steer clear, this won't excite you. If you like a lightly bourbon influenced, largely dry malt but with a fruity sweet and spicy kick - well here it is. "Good" : 84/100 (3.75 stars)

Nose: Very rich and featuring malt, apples, oak and gingery spice. There's a waxy character that adds depth and texture. Palate: Full and assured arrival with fruity and mixed spice notes. The arrival blooms seamlessly into the development as more fruit notes (particularly orange) emerge to balance a cavalcade of warm, exotic spice - clove, cinnamon, nutmeg and allspice. However the palate is no explosion or cheap thrill. Everything is poised and perfectly balanced. Finish: Medium. Very satisfying - fruit and spice nuances roll on and on into the aftertaste. This is arguably the best of the standard core-range Compass Box whiskies. One of the most complex and sophisticated blends I've tasted in its price range - it wipes the floor with just about every other blended whisky and I'd even have a bottle of this in preference to many single malts at the same price. Terrific value, and an education in a glass. I've been tasting several blends over the last fortnight with some mates, and the one thing we all noticed was how refreshing and "clean" all the Compass Box whiskies are. In comparison, most blends strive for a house style that is heavy and rich, and they achieve that goal with varying success. Compass Box is one of the few that prefer a clean and uncluttered style using a few premium components combined with precision. When you also factor in the very reasonable asking price this whisky represents remarkable value. "Very Good" : 85/100 (4 stars)

Nose: Lightly oily and cereal with herbal notes, brightened by bergamot and apple aromas. There are hints of sandalwood, dusky jasmine, vanilla and dried fruits. Over time charred woody notes become more pronounced. Palate: An interesting combination of sweet and dry - vanilla cream, barley sugar, and caramel, but also lemon and nutty flavours - hazelnuts, almonds, and peanuts. Over time it develops a woody, almost pine-resin quality. Finish: Medium/short. Nutty flavours gradually fading to a dry, almost astringent finale. A pleasant if not spectacular whisky with an overall woody/floral/nutty character. The longer it sits in the glass the more the woody aspects become obvious. Quite smooth and individual. The one thing I particularly dislike about Auchentoshan in general, and this expression in particular, is that after developing in the glass for a while there is a distinct resinous note that becomes too prominent. I've noticed that every time I pour a dram of this I get about 3/4 of the way through and suddenly start to lose my taste for it. "Average" : 76/100 (2.5 stars)