Tastes

Nose: Rustic and elegant with malt, fruit and earth aromas. There is a hint of honeyed peat smoke along with toffee, tobacco, leather and the aroma of a sweetly decaying compost heap. In the background there is a faint brininess and some very heavy, earthy vanilla. Palate: Rich, creamy, almost oily arrival with standout notes of vanilla, malted chocolate and stem ginger preserved in syrup. In the development apple, pear and lemon appear along with toffee, nuts, and stone fruits. There are also deep herbal notes, a touch of hot spice and a fleeting, almost ethereal smokiness. Finish: Long. The creamy character of the palate turns delightfully waxy, almost like honeycomb, but a hint of flinty minerality prevents it from becoming cloying. Considering Hazelburn is Springbank's unpeated and triple-distilled persona it's intriguing that there is so much gentle smoke wafting about the sidelines. It's a very old-fashioned and uncompromising single malt, but it's not hard to strike up a friendship and once you get to know its personality you'll gravitate back to it all the time. The nose is so "big" you can almost get lost in it - I can nurse a dram of this for hours, just nosing it. It has an endlessly fascinating, almost farmyard character, but it never ceases to be elegant and refined. I usually enjoy this whisky neat, but it is also responsive to dilution - a small dash of water opens it up and some hidden sweetness and subtle fruity notes from the barley are revealed, but don't add too much. Like all Springbank whiskies, this seems to be more mature than the official age statement - it's more like a 16 year old from anyone else. The absurd official score on this site does not begin to do it justice - maybe it's a typo and it should have been 92? That I could believe. "Excellent" : 89/100 (4.75 stars)

Nose: Well defined but elegant and restrained smoke backed up by a little fruitiness (apples), some soft vanilla and malty notes. A touch of sherry and the grain whisky component is noticeable, but certainly not objectionable. Palate: The arrival delivers on the promise of the nose, being lightly smoky and fruity. Over time an apple cider note appears and it has an overall pleasant and creamy nature with a hint of sherried dark fruit. Finish. Short. The palate just fades away with nothing new appearing and little noticeable aftertaste. The first time I tasted this was about 6 months ago (early 2016) and I was a bit disappointed. There didn't seem to me much of a nose or palate and I really didn't see what the fuss was all about. Then recently I bought another bottle for a group tasting of blends with some mates and it seemed much better. Maybe there are batch variations? Tasting it neat is an enjoyable experience, but it's when you use this as a mixer that you finally get the message because it is absolutely, specifically crafted to be a superior mixing scotch that imparts a gentle but definite smokiness. Given the relatively small bottle size, by volume it ends up being in the same price bracket as many less expensive single malts and also the more interesting Compass Box blended malts, so it's a personal choice as to whether it is worth it. I did notice, however, that while I had this in the house I tended to reach for it automatically when making a scotch and soda. It has an agreeably light, clean character and is crisper than most other smoky blends. "Good" : 83/100 (3.5 stars)

Nose: A full and satisfying nose that initially presents a soft citrus fragrance followed immediately by a waft of smoke blowing in on a sea breeze. There are earthy, mineral and maritime aromas that are balanced by honey, lemon, vanilla and soft smoke. There’s also a little anise and iodine as well, but faint - just enough to add body but not dominate. Palate: A lovely peaty and slightly salty arrival. Not briny, just seasoned with salt to the right degree so the smoke gains a modest meaty texture. A little pepper that is balanced by vanilla and sweet malt and fruity flavours. Finish: Long. Salty/sweet and gently smoky with a touch of spice. Assertive but friendly, this whisky reminds me a little of Clynelish or Benromach, but most of all of its “godparent” – Springbank. There is the same earthy, vegetal, marine quality but it does this in its own way and is certainly not derivative. If Springbank burned down tomorrow and all we had was Glengyle I’d be heartbroken, but not in despair. Probably the most noticeable thing about this whisky (apart from how much Springbank DNA it contains) is its coherence and integration. There is a well-defined character to it that is present right throughout the experience, from first nosing to the lingering finish. It’s something that few whiskies can boast they have achieved, certainly not at the age of 12 years, and to cap it all it is reasonably priced, un-chillfiltered, natural colour and 46% abv. I first tasted this at a Sydney whisky shop tasting session in February 2017 and immediately bought 2 bottles. I would have bought a case but their stock was limited. If your taste runs to Springbank, Craigellachie, Clynelish, Benromach, Mortlach or anything similar then seek out a bottle of this. It is a brilliant contemporary take on the Springbank / Longrow style and you will not be disappointed. Easily equivalent in quality to Springbank 10 year old, so I'm giving it the same score, just a fraction short of 5 stars. This is the first mature expression from a distillery, and a marque, that is going to be a modern classic. You read it here first. "Excellent" : 89/100 (4.75 stars)

Nose: Over-ripe or blood oranges and old oak are the defining characteristics. This is a subtle nose that never really opens out fully. It's simple so if you're expecting complex, strong aromas you'll be disappointed. Palate: "Juicy" is the best word I can think of to describe the arrival. Incredibly soft barley and lots of assorted fruit flavours, but it's the mouthfeel that is the key here. So soft and luscious. Some may find it lacking in depth - fair enough, it certainly isn't a "big" palate, but it does have complexity. It's just that the complexity is all about sweet, soft low-key flavours. If it was on the stage this whisky would be the king of under-acting. Finish: Long, but low key. Custard, pears. Sweet and juicy. Initially I wasn't impressed by this but after a couple of tastes I got where it is coming from. It's all about friendly, soft fruity tones and it fills that role very well. There's just no complexity to it so if you are looking for that, look elsewhere. In Australia this is nominally $150 but frankly it isn’t worth that sort of price. However you can sometimes find it for around $100, and at that price point it just rates recommendation. “Above Average” : 81/100 (3 stars)

Nose: A light sweet sherry hint at first then the fruity notes become apparent – light citrus, orchard fruits, melon and berries. There are minty notes behind the fruit supported by a background of malty cereal with a touch of leather, tobacco and burlap funk (just enough to add depth). As it rests in the glass the nose deepens and becomes richer, with sherry becoming more apparent. [The dry glass is sherry, honey and light smoke and surprisingly like the dry-glass aroma of Highland Park 18]. Palate: The arrival is soft and sweetly spicy with fruity notes a pleasant texture. There is a noticeable oak presence that rises in the development together with a rich, complex array of warmer spices - ginger, allspice, clove and cinnamon. There is a delicious vanilla-honey-sherry combination that flows throughout the palate and into the finish, and an earthy but fresh leathery quality. Finish: Short and dry. The elegant spicy sweetness of the palate gradually merges into a mild salty aftertaste, which in turn finally fades out as sweetness. A great whisky that for some is the standout of the Old Pulteney standard lineup but for others is overshadowed by the 21 year-old. There is a strong similarity between this and its younger sister the 12 year-old expression, but this is more integrated and elegant with a well-defined sherry presence and some very agreeable oak influence that is lacking in the 12. Very much the 12 year old all grown up. The nose is good but a little tight at first. It needs some time in the glass to unfurl and a couple of drops of water assists this process. The palate is, however, where things really blossom. Give this one some time to rest in the glass – at least 15 minutes – and I’d recommend just a few drops of water. “Excellent” : 88/100 (4.5 stars)

* This review is for Batch #55, bottled at 60.9% abv. Nose: Intense sherry, orange, old leather (like a fine book binding), caramel toffee, chocolate. It's a big, rich and enfolding nose. Palate: Full-bodied, rich and intense in the arrival with marmalade, leather, sherry and chocolate the dominant flavours. It powers on into the development with dark chocolate, cognac, nutmeg and figs emerging. The texture is robust and it has a lovely mouth-feel that is dense but not oily. As the alcohol heat dies away it becomes warming and sweetly spicy (cinnamon, nutmeg, cloves and cardamom) with heaps of dried dark fruit and baking spices. It's a Christmas pudding in a glass. Finish: Long. Leather, tobacco, and spicy sherry in the aftertaste. This whisky is so influenced by sherry it almost tastes more like sherry than whisky sometimes. I'm not really a fan of sherry-bombs but A’bunadh is a very good example of the style. It can be a little overblown but it's impeccably crafted and if you like the profile then it’s one of the most iconic examples. Personally, as much as I like it, it's not my favourite Aberlour. I prefer the more nuanced and subtle expressions in their range such as the elegant 18 year old and the 12 year old un-chillfiltered, however it is unquestionably a very good whisky. “Very Good” : 85/100 (4 stars)

Nose: Rich, strong, pungent and oily with notes of coal and cinders - like the firebox on a steam-powered locomotive. There’s also masses of sherry, dark fruit, lemon, vanilla, tarred rope, espresso and spices, backed up by cedarwood, both fresh-hewn and burning. An aroma of frying herring, cooked on the stoker's shovel over the firebox (yes, they used to do that in the old days, on the Mallaig steam trains). Palate: For a fraction of a second the arrival is sweet, rounded and fruity - then the locomotive comes hurtling into the station, cloaked in billowing soot and steam. Asphalt, over-brewed lapsang souchong, preserved lemons, grapefruit, olives, licorice, oysters and a touch of burnt honey. That's just the arrival. As it develops everything broadens and becomes richer, with the sherry influence cutting through the smoke. Dark bitter chocolate infused with hot cinnamon and ginger. Orange, raisins, currents and dates swimming in malt. The smoke keeps re-asserting itself. Finish: The finish ... is eternal. Like a pile of smoldering tarry rags, you'll be sensing it 24 hours later as dark, almost burnt, caramel and peat-reek dwindle into the aftertaste. A magnificent thing, but maybe too intense for everyday tasting - I like to share it with friends occasionally, but for an everyday smoky dram I prefer a more relaxed pace. When it was first released this whisky caused quite a stir in the community and in my opinion it was an outstanding 5-star dram. Since then it has diminished a little in impact, and I have the feeling the sherry casks they are using are not as good as they once were, however it’s still a very good (and very powerful) whisky. “Very Good” : 87/100 (4.25 stars)

Nose: Honey, nutty and mild mixed dried fruit aromas against a sherry backdrop. There is a little spiciness and after resting for a while a very pleasant oak note emerges accompanied by the faintest touch of smoke (or maybe it’s just barrel char). Palate: A semi-sweet honey and fruit arrival that develops into nutty and milk chocolate flavours. There is also some malted cereal and a pleasant oak note as it unfolds. Finish: Medium/short. Soft and relaxed, vanilla, caramel and a little spice in the aftertaste but no bitterness. There is a light touch to the presentation and a sense of good refill oak, but it’s a rather old-fashioned style of blend that is designed for easy drinking. It delivers just enough complexity and depth to be satisfying. There’s nothing challenging about it, but neither is it bland or dull - in fact it has good balance. It also repays being given a chance to rest in the glass and some very nice notes become apparent over time. Don’t hurry this whisky or just use it as a mixer – it’s good as a sipping blend. The only big downside is the price, which puts it in competition with several superior blends and more than a few very good single malts. If it cost half the price it could be my go-to everyday scotch blend, but as it is I don't often buy it. “Above Average” : 81/100 (3 stars)

Nose: Caramel, brown sugar, raisins, some orange, a little vanilla. Palate: Caramel and malt, dark fruits. Even more caramel and toffee comes out as it opens. Some chocolate and a hint of oak and gentle spice. The texture is full and satisfying. Finish: Medium/short. Sweet and simple. This is a slightly above average blend that is let down by the amount of caramel and toffee in both the nose and palate. There’s nothing specifically bad, it’s just a bit bland and heavy and the finish is lacking. It works well as a mixer because the flavours are thick and don't get drowned by soda or soft drink, but frankly I'd expect to be able to say more about a blend that is this expensive. It's just a little under-achieving and with care it could be a 4 star blend. "Above Average" : 82/100 (3.25 stars)

Nose: Vanilla, coconut, soft fruit (peaches, apricots), and brown sugar. There's an elusive fragrant wood note overlaying everything, but it's more like cedarwood or sandalwood than oak. Palate: An arrival that is uncommonly silken, smooth, luscious and sensual. As it evolves flavours of crème brûlée, white marshmallows and coconut pudding emerge, balanced by a candied cereal and warm cinnamon and ginger spice note. Finish: Medium/long. Vanilla and cream with some spiced cereal in the aftertaste. A very seductive and, yes, hedonistic whisky that is one of the stars of the Compass Box core range. Together with Spice Tree and Peat Monster it defines John Glaser's goal for his brand and the concept of an artisan blend. The recipe changes depending on what is available but it rarely comprises more than four grain whiskies, all of very high quality. You could almost call this "essence of top-class oak in a solution of premium whisky". ADDENDUM - One year later and I'm just finishing off the bottle I opened for this review. It has oxidized with considerable grace and there is greater heavy mellowness now than when it was first opened but the whisky still has that characteristic Compass Box freshness. It's a good grain whisky blend, but the official score seems a bit inflated to me. "Good" : 85/100 (3.75 stars)