Tastes
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Ardbeg 13 year old 2005 (That Boutique-y Whisky Company, Batch 9)
Single Malt — Islay, Scotland
Reviewed January 19, 2021 (edited April 29, 2021)Whisky Tasting : The Oak Barrel, Sydney, 14 January 2021. Whisky #6 Nose: Light, brisk citrus over a heavier, flinty mineral-like foundation. Restrained maritime peat and a hint of burnt-match. Lemon oil emerges with repeated nosing but over time a floral component is noticed that adds depth and softness – the lemon oil transforms into lemon blossom. A distillate-driven nose with a smoke quality that is more akin to cold ash or soot than a bonfire. Palate: Sweet but bright entry with a lively, fresh citrus character. Subtle smoke in the background that expands with repeated tasting, eventually becoming bold and full. Cinnamon, ginger, camphor and sweet chilli sauce contribute to an overall warming quality that is balanced by maritime notes of tarred rope, smoked-fish and a saline breeze. The texture is mouth-coating but not heavy. Finish: Medium/long. The peat fades into light sweet fruit and a little ash in the aftertaste. That Boutique-y Whisky Company has released several Ardbeg expressions, which is unusual as Ardbeg is one of those distilleries that is seldom seen in independent release. This expression was distilled in March 2005 and matured in a re-coopered ex-bourbon hogshead for 13 years, being dumped in July 2018. This has a different personality to the modern core-range Ardbegs. It's more "old-school" with an oily, tarry quality and is less "dialed-in" and precise. It is a satisfying, soothing dram but I would not say it is superior – just different, but still very good. Relatively expensive and primarily of interest to Ardbeg collectors. “Very Good” : 86/100 (4 stars)300.0 AUD per Bottle -
Kilchoman Fino Sherry Matured (2020 Edition)
Single Malt — Islay, Scotland
Reviewed January 19, 2021 (edited August 27, 2022)Whisky Tasting : The Oak Barrel, Sydney, 14 January 2021. Whisky #5 Nose: The initial impression is of a crisp, fresh coastal spirit with an aroma of olives in brine and a restrained smoky note. Further nosing reveals delicate fruit (citrus and tropical) and unusual aromas of moss, damp earth, mustard and also (bizarrely) burning electrical cables and hot metal. I can only imagine that it is the combination of the fino sherry cask and peat smoke that reminded me of soldering phenol-resin turret boards. Palate: Considerably smokier on the palate than the nose – a tarry, earthy type of peat smoke from the first moment of arrival. It’s more briny and drier than other smoky Kilchoman expressions. Tropical fruit in the development with salted lemon, bitter walnuts, mild chilli, olive oil, coffee and cocoa powder. The texture is good, but not remarkable. Finish: Medium/long. Smoky, citric, bitter and briny. The dry, astringent walnut skin character of fino sherry is most noticeable here. This whisky has a dry, austere, winey profile which makes it hard for me to review as I do not like that style. Fino sherry has never appealed to me (oh, how terribly unsophisticated I am) and I make no apologies for having a sweet-tooth. Give me a big syrupy PX sherry any day. This is very well made (well, it’s Kilchoman after all) and I’m sure it will appeal to many palates … just not mine. As far as my personal taste is concerned I’d only rate this at 74/100 but I’m giving it a high rating here because it is a highly characterful and interesting experience, just not one I would seek out. Also, I thought it was much better when taken neat. Water brings out the dry qualities to a degree where I was unable to finish my tasting glass. I would strongly recommend a trial pour of this before buying, if possible, as it is a polarising profile and at the asking price you’d want to be sure you really desired a whole bottle. “Good” : 84/100 (3.75 stars)160.0 AUD per Bottle -
Jade Espirit Edouard Absinthe Supérieure
Absinthe — Maine-et-Loire, France
Reviewed January 17, 2021 (edited August 5, 2022)Appearance (neat): Old gold with a green tint. Exactly the same colour as the oil from a jar of preserved vine leaves. (louched): Condensed in appearance with a colour that is somewhere between very pale jade green and a golden-hued autumn leaf. This is the liquid counterpart of the finest grade of white moss jade. The louche takes a while to appear but starts around 1:1. It progresses slowly, being yellowish to start with, and a thick layer of oils floats above the louched content right up until about 1:4. At 1:4-1:6 it is complete and has achieved its final, glorious appearance. Aroma: When neat there is a refined but insistent aroma of woody herbs. The nose begins to bloom the second the first drop hits the surface and it continues to expand and fill the surrounding air as it louches. There is great complexity and anise is present, although reserved, with fennel and wormwood being more prominent. There is a citrus note but it is not bright – it’s like dried lime and mandarin peel. Earthy, woody notes are in support and there is also cumin, coriander and a strong vegetal aroma. Floating above all the other aromas is a floral bouquet that suggests walking through a meadow of spring flowers on a perfect day, towards a cool and welcoming forest, smelling of humus, damp bark and mushrooms. Flavour and Texture: Exquisite balance. Wormwood, anise and fennel in the arrival and nothing is rushed or cheaply sensational. The palate is reserved, genteel and it takes its own good time to progress. It is clean, well defined, very complex and it’s only on the aftertaste that you start to appreciate the intricacy of the palate. Over time the dried-peel citrus notes noted on the nose also appear on the palate at the sides of the tongue, and bitter herbal and baking-spice notes emerge. This bitterness is balanced by the creamy mouthfeel and it remains as the primary sensation, building slowly as subsequent sips are taken. The fresh citrus-like herbal notes re-assert with each mouthful producing a counterpoint to the gradually numbing wormwood bitterness and foundation anise. Magnificent. The aftertaste is very long. There is a density and intensity to this absinthe that is beguiling – from the rich creamy appearance to the mouth-filling texture and slowly mounting flavours, it is a tour-de-force of opulence. For those who may not know, this was, and is, a ground-breaking absinthe – possibly one of the most important of all the modern expressions. This absinthe was the first to be reverse-engineered by Ted Breaux from samples taken from a bottle of pre-ban Esprit Edouard over a century old. Chromatography and other analytical techniques were used to dissect the exact profile of the spirit and Mr Breaux then set about rebuilding the production process by trial and error, and with the guide of 19th century distiller’s recipe books sourced from distillery archives. Drinking a perfectly louched glass of this spirit is a privilege. If you have the slightest interest in absinthe and only want to buy one bottle to try, this is the one. Then again, there are 4 more core-range Jade expressions and each one has its clique of devotees. Take your pick – there are about a dozen truly great modern absinthes available, and almost half of them are from Jade (I'll be reviewing them all over the coming weeks). Jade is the “Del Maguey” of absinthe. “Phenomenal” : 95/100 (5 stars)199.0 AUD per Bottle -
BenRiach 14 year 2005 Rum Cask exclusive Australian bottling
Single Malt — Speyside , Scotland
Reviewed January 16, 2021 (edited January 20, 2021)Whisky Tasting : The Oak Barrel, Sydney, 14 January 2021. Whisky #4 Nose: Sherry, raisins, tropical fruit, musky rockmelon, apricot, coconut, malt extract. No intrusive alcohol presence at all. The nose blooms magnificently over time. It is not syrupy but the rum cask contributes a deep oak-wood background and a brown sugar/molasses aroma that develops into an immense presence after an hour in the glass. The dry-glass is all rancio and treacle. Palate: Huge arrival. Dark fruits (stewed figs, dates soaked in rum, plum pudding), dark malt extract and leatherwood honey. Instantly impressive and commanding. The texture is sumptuous and mouth-coating with a little heat and spice (clove, cinnamon and nutmeg). Finish: Long. Rich sherried fruit notes fading into the distance with a hint of vanilla. This tasting was from an expression exclusively bottled for The Oak Barrel in 2020 so it will not be available outside Australia. If you search online you will find several “Benriach 14 year old 2005” whiskies but be aware that although the labels look similar at first glance the spirits differ considerably. This Oak Barrel bottling was from an ex-rum cask but others include expressions from sauternes, oloroso and PX cask maturation. @Jan-Case reviewed the Netherlands oloroso cask bottling here a couple of months ago. In this case the rum cask produced just 102 bottles which is a very small outturn so it must have been a pretty loose cask but the intense interaction this allowed was fortuitous. It created a big, soft, intensely flavourful whisky and it’s easily one of the best rum-cask maturations I’ve tasted, and also one of the best BenRiach expressions I’ve come across. The nose blooms with a drop of water as fragrant floral notes spring from the musky background. Water also evolves the palate by contributing greater depth but it does not turn overly spicy. This whisky loves to develop and is very good after 90 minutes. The single fault I found (if indeed it is a fault) is that there is no great progression in the palate. What you get up-front in the arrival is pretty much the whole story. The palate gains depth but it is all an elaboration of the initial theme, with no new melodies introduced. It’s kind of a “rum-monster” in the same way that Aberlour A’bunadh is a “sherry-monster”. Unfortunately this tasting was also from the last bottle in existence. When it was still in stock the price was $220 and if it had been available on the night I would gladly have paid that to obtain one. “Very Good” : 85/100 (4 stars)220.0 AUD per Bottle -
Wolfburn From The Stills Summer 2020 Distillery Exclusive
Single Malt — Highlands, Scotland
Reviewed January 16, 2021 (edited January 21, 2021)Whisky Tasting : The Oak Barrel, Sydney, 14 January 2021. Whisky #3 Nose: Light floral malt, nut and fruit aromas. Delicate but not shy in character. A little spirity but the ethanol presence is not intrusive. The sweeter fragrances are all immediate and “on top” with light smoke in the background, but the dry glass is very smoky, showing just how much the peat presence contributes to the foundation of the profile. Palate: Balanced entry centered on cereal notes, with a sweet creamy presence evolving – reminiscent of muesli and fruit yoghurt. Dark fruit (figs, dates), dry fruit and nutty flavours (particularly almond) in the development but it is not a heavy palate. As with the nose some excellent subtle smoke flavours appear with repeated sips but they are also not heavy – more lightly smoked ham than full-on barbecue, and certainly not maritime at all. The texture progesses into an even more oily form with time in the glass. Finish: Medium/long. Lightly smoked, like grilled tropical fruit. The finish trails into a creamy sweet aftertaste but there is a slight nip of sour "plastic-like" peat in the end. Overall this is a well-balanced but subtle whisky that repays thoughtful tasting. A hurried appreciation will lead to the impression that it is a lightweight, which is erroneous. Water brings out spicy notes but is neither required nor preferable. I’d recommend taking this one neat. The “From the Stills” expressions are normally only available from the distillery door, but as in-person visits were not possible during 2020 the distillery chose to instead make the year’s bottling available through retail channels. This is the first such expression I've tasted. It was a vatting from two sherry casks, a 7 year old hogshead and a younger (probably 3-4 year old) octave. The sherry-cask influence is apparent as dark and dried fruit notes and a pervading sweetness, but the whisky never loses balance. The distillate is allowed to take the wheel, as it should. This is, however, a little on the expensive side and as much as I enjoyed it I decided not to buy a bottle on the night. It’s a good Wolfburn, but I think they make better expressions at lower prices, as well as some excellent ones for not too much more. “Above Average” : 82/100 (3.25 stars)165.0 AUD per Bottle -
Westward Whiskey American Two Malts
Other Whiskey — Portland Oregon , USA
Reviewed January 14, 2021 (edited January 20, 2021)Whisky Tasting : The Oak Barrel, Sydney, 14 January 2021. Whisky #2 Nose: Malty, sweet, fragrant ale notes (almost incense-like at times). Caramel toffee and a little black pepper. Palate: Sweet arrival, very malty and rich and again highly suggestive of a full-bodied craft ale. The wash for this must have been just a step away from porter. In the development some lighter notes emerge – nutty chocolate and nougat with preserved stone fruits. Very good texture, oily and lush. Finish: Medium/long. Mildly spicy/sweet cereal. There is a quality about the nose that is reminiscent of stout and it appears on the palate as well with that characteristic chocolate-malt flavour. There are two facets to this whisky – the aromas and flavour are dominated by full-throttle dark-ale maltiness from high-roast barley, while the wheat contributes lighter notes and, most importantly, a full and oily texture. The addition of water mutes the nose and highly amplifies the palate, unveiling considerable spicy heat. I thought that dilution unbalanced it, and I’d recommend taking this one neat. This tasting was from a special “Aussie Exclusive Release” (so it said on the label) which was a single-barrel selection for our market. The barrel in question (number 355) was matured for just under 4 ½ years and produced 120 bottles. This reminded me of some recent Australian whiskies that also use a blend of barley and other grains, particularly the very good Archie Rose Hybrid Malt Rye. This Westland has a familiar profile but if anything it is closer to a Scottish malt character than the Archie Rose, and it has a similarity in some respects to Glenmorangie Signet. Given that it should come as no surprise that Australia is Westward Whiskey’s second largest market after the U.S. Good whisky but unfortunately like all U.S. imports it is overpriced in our market which puts it into a bracket where it is outclassed by other spirits – it costs the same here as a Longrow Red or Springbank 12 year old and it’s just not quite there. However that has not influenced my score - I occasionally add a fraction of a point for very good value, but I don't subtract from a score just because of expense. “Very Good” : 85/100 (4 stars)175.0 AUD per Bottle -
Bruichladdich Islay Barley 2011
Single Malt — Islay, Scotland
Reviewed January 14, 2021 (edited October 6, 2022)Whisky Tasting : The Oak Barrel, Sydney, 14 January 2021. Whisky #1 Nose: Initially there are sweet malty aromas with hints of syrup and sandalwood. A little pepper and cinnamon (like the smell of cinnamon candy) and yeasty spices become apparent next and there is a quality vaguely reminiscent of rye whiskey. As you dig deeper, crisp lime zest and sourdough bread show through and there is a light floral note. No smoke, maybe some barrel char, but the oak influence is very light here – this is highly distillate driven. With water it loses its crisp quality and the rye notes appear more as musty cereal. Palate: Firm arrival with spicy ginger verging on hot cinnamon but with a counterpoint of sweet rich malt. Slightly salty with grassy herbal notes in the development together with pepper and clove. These herbal flavours gain complexity over repeated sips with bay leaf, olive, sage and a hint of cardamom appearing. There is also a quiet red-wine cask influence in the background. It provides a suggestion of tart red berries but is more obviously noticed through a toasty tannic influence. The texture is oily but drying. Finish: Medium. Lemon-tinged cereal and a little bit of grippy tannin. Grassy and herbal in the aftertaste. A fine, well textured and enjoyable malt, although maybe just a fraction too young. Its youthfulness does not show up as a fault per se but I had the impression that with another 2-4 years of maturation under its belt this could be something quite special. Compared to some of the earlier Islay Barley expressions that derived from single farm crops (for example the 2006 Dunlossit and 2007 Rockside Farm) this has a similar aroma and flavour profile but somehow seems less “fresh”. That’s a vague descriptor, I know, but I’m not sure how else to express it. Tasting those earlier single-terroir whiskies evoked memories of standing near the sea on Islay in a fresh, chill breeze. This whisky, although good, does not have that magic. “Good” : 84/100 (3.75 stars)110.0 AUD per Bottle -
Appearance: (Neat) Bright green, obviously artificially coloured. (Diluted) Pale pearly jade-green with moderate cloudiness. It does not have the depth and interesting facets of some absinthes but it does not look artificial once louched, however the louche is slow to begin and never achieves great density. Aroma: Less interesting in comparison to the better absinthes. You don’t notice aromas blooming from the glass as water is added, and you have to nose it up close to get anything. When you do the nose is mainly anise and fennel. There are some grassy, woody aromas and a sweet smell in the background but it’s not a complex nose. Flavour and Texture: Soft and sweet entry, even with no sugar. Liquorice and herbal notes and it is slightly numbing. There is a bitter background (particularly at less than 1:5 dilution) and the texture is agreeable, but more waxy than usual and a little thin. It does not have the lush creamy mouthfeel of good absinthes. The finish is on the short side and overall it's a simple palate. Grande Absente is often criticized for not being a real absinthe and not containing Artemisia absinthium or green anise, but that is not true. It does contain those ingredients but it is not produced in the “traditional” manner, and it also contains star anise and sugar which are standard in pastis but never used in absinthe. It is also not just compounded from oils as some critics say, but neither is it a single distillation product. It is made using a hybrid process where distillations, macerations, sourced oils and extracts are blended together. Consequently this is best thought of as a spirit that sits midway between absinthe and pastis. The colour, however, is absolutely artificial. Tartrazine (E102) and Brilliant Blue FCF (E133) are used to make the lurid green shade. It’s a pity the producers use these additives as a short cut instead colouring the spirit naturally with chlorophyll. This is not a great “absinthe” but neither is it terrible. It would be acceptable for cocktails or a sazerac rinse instead of the real thing but as a straight-up louched drink it is pretty simple and dull. It does not deserve the exaggerated criticism it receives based on incorrect information, but neither is it something worth seeking out. The producer, Distilleries et Domains de Province, is a long established and respected producer of liqueurs and pastis. They produce Henri Bardouin pastis, which is one of the most highly regarded brands, and the delicious RinQuinQuin peach aperitif. At the price it is not competitive and I would not recommend purchasing it. Pernod absinthe sells for $30 less in Australia and is a much better product. If you are just mildly curious and want to dip your toes in the sea of absinthe at reasonable cost, that's the one to choose. “Adequate” : 73/100 (2.25 stars)130.0 AUD per Bottle
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Starward Two-Fold Double Grain
Other Whiskey — Victoria , Australia
Reviewed December 29, 2020 (edited August 5, 2022)Re-taste and my WHISKY OF THE YEAR for 2020 Nose: Orchard fruits (red apple, pears), red berries, pale malt extract, cereal compote, white grape juice, baked banana. There is depth and good structure and with time in the glass the nose gains body, with a little caramel and syrup emerging. There is a restrained and elegant cask influence in evidence with a whiff of sandalwood. The nose displays an overall excellent, satisfying balance. Palate: Semi-sweet cereal arrival with just a hint of warm spices and pepper at the edges. The wine-cask influence comes through in the development with subtle grape and berry tones but the light malt character balances this. Fruit (plum, apple, dates, nectarine) is apparent on the later palate together with some fudge and nutty flavours. The texture is very good – rich and comforting but not heavy. Finish: Medium. The palate progresses seamlessly into a mildly spiced (cinnamon, mint and white pepper) finish with a flourish of malt and red wine berries in the aftertaste. The profile is an interesting combination of influences. It has an aroma that is not unlike a fruity Speyside single malt, the texture of a velvety-soft Irish blend, and a palate that is a combination of both with the addition of full-bodied wheated-bourbon notes. Even though this is a blend it has a profile similarity to older Bushmills, but in the end it is 100% Aussie. This whisky is pleasant to sip as a session dram, swims well with water and is fine as a mixer. It’s in good supply, well-distributed and affordable, and represents great value for money. This is easily the most improved whisky I’ve tasted for some time and it is very pleasing that an Australian distillery has brought such an affordable quality product to market. Highest Recommendation. “Good” : 84/100 (3.75 stars) -------------------------------------- BACKGROUND I first reviewed Starward Two-Fold here two years ago (that review now appears below), and at the time I considered it average at best. That was based on a tasting of the very first batch, which at the time was a marriage of New World Distillers' own pot-still malt with column-still wheat spirit sourced from the Manildra Group in New South Wales. The two components were then aged in ex-wine casks at the distillery's Melbourne warehouse. While the blend recipe is the same (as far as I can tell) the distillery has improved this whisky considerably over the last two years. The current batch has the same overall character as the original bottling but it is now a more relaxed, mature and refined product. I believe this is due in no small part to changes in maturation and cask management that are similar to what is happening throughout the local industry. This is the first time I’ve declared a Whisky of the Year. I’ve resisted doing so in the past as given the diversity and quality to be found I could easily list 10 whiskies and any one could qualify as number one, depending on the chosen criteria. However in this case I believe the title is merited. This is far from being the “best” whisky in the world, or even in Australia, but it is a good one that ticks just about every box, and it deserves more publicity. Almost every Australian whisky I've tasted for the last 20 years has been a "cottage-industry" expression that seemed to try too hard, miss the target, or be far too expensive. Sometimes all three. This is different - it is a quality mass-market product like Johnnie Walker Black, and I will be buying it more regularly in future as a standard blend for the bar. ----------------------------------------------------------------------- Review originally posted November 18, 2018: Nose: A Fragrant grain aroma leads into light fruitiness backed by quite a bit of fresh, vigorous oak. A dash of vanilla and a little minty spice add interest. It's crisp with a juicy background and there's a whiff of apple Danish and lemon juice. Palate: A nicely balanced arrival - a little sweet but with some developing spice. Mainly malty cereal to begin with, but as it develops some rather young and "hard" cereal emerges, which is the wheat spirit contribution. Just as you think it's over, a soft flourish of faintly fruity wine emerges to add sweetness and some mid-palate depth. Finish: Medium. The predominant cereal flavours gently subside. There is a tannic and slightly bitter/sour cereal nip at the end that is coming from the casks and the grain whisky. A dash of water improves the palate and finish a lot by bringing out some more sweetness to add balance. This whisky comprises 40% pot-still malted barley spirit produced by Starward, blended with 60% continuous still wheat-grain whisky produced by the Manildra Group at their distillery in Bomaderry in NSW. The two components are aged in ex-red wine barrels at Starward distillery. The nose is pleasant but lacks a bit of depth and authority, the palate is well constructed, if a little simple, and the finish is OK up until the end. If it was a touch softer on the aftertaste this would be a fine blended whisky. It is just acceptable for sipping over ice, but works best as a mixer - in fact it works very well with cola. Overall it is very reminiscent of mid-range blended Irish whiskey. Starward has created this whisky to capture a slice of the bar-trade and the upper-tier blend / lower-tier malt market. Their media releases specifically talk about it in these terms and it is priced at AUS$65 (US$47), which is uncommonly low for an Australian whisky. This is the first major product to come to market from Starward since they moved to the new Port Melbourne premises two years ago, and was made possible thanks to substantial investment from a venture capital business backed by Diageo. The distillery says it is aiming to produce 500,000 litres of alcohol a year from 2019 onwards, with half going into this whisky. It will be available in the US and Europe from January 2019. Although it is labelled as "Australian whisky" this product is what most people would call a blend, however "blended whisky" is not a legally required or recognized term in Australia. For example, a distillery can say on the label that their whisky is "a blend of malt and grain whiskies" (as this is) but they are under no obligation to do so. It's great to see a local distillery achieve this volume of production and create what is (I think) our first home-grown mass-market blended whisky. However it's a pity that the wording on the label is so coy. I wish they had just come out and said plainly and proudly that it's a blend. I can understand why they were timid about doing this, but together with the inference that it is entirely made in Melbourne (when in fact more than half the contents comes from 800km away in a different state) it all starts to smell of marketing spin, and that's a taint far worse than any off-note in the whisky itself. "Average" : 77/100 (2.5 stars)65.0 AUD per Bottle -
Appearance: Translucent amber. Aroma: Gentle, sweet, mildly floral/herbal with a soft orange blossom presence. It’s like a medicinal version of Cointreau. Flavour and Texture: Warm, sweet, citrus and spices (cloves, saffron, cinnamon, cocoa, vanilla pod). The texture is full, slightly syrupy but not cloying. Towards the finish a mild gentian bitterness comes through and the herbal presence is more prominent. The aftertaste is lingering and well balanced. The nose is less medicinal than many amari. The palate, also, is gentle and soft with no strong or challenging flavours. The foundation is sweet and syrupy but never becomes sickly. It is similar to Lucano, but the balance is towards sweet floral rather than herbal notes and it is less bitter. This is a very easy amaro to enjoy, and arguably the perfect introduction to this class of drinks for a beginner. The profile is similar to that of a liqueur and less “robust” than some amari, and the mouth-feel is satisfying and rich. If you enjoy liqueurs such as Drambuie, Grand Marnier or Benedictine this is like a soft, slightly floral and less alcoholic younger cousin to those drinks. Most enjoyable, this is a good amaro, but not at the top of the totem pole. The official rating here of 83 is fair. “Good” : 83/100 (3.5 stars)55.0 AUD per Bottle
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