Tastes
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Maxwell Liqueur Mead
Herbal/Spice Liqueurs — McLaren Vale, South Australia, Australia
Reviewed September 16, 2021 (edited September 24, 2021)Appearance: Pale amber/gold. Clear with no particulates. Aroma: Mulled wine (heavy on the cloves), orange marmalade, ginger, cinnamon. The dry glass is all cloves and cinnamon. Flavour and Texture: Sweet with a mild heat. A trace of cinnamon, ginger and nutmeg, some orange and dried apricot and even a touch of honey but everything is dwarfed by an immense flavour of cloves. The texture is good, and reminiscent of a botrytis riesling. The aftertaste is sweet spiced honey. Normally I wouldn’t review mead on Distiller as it’s a fermented product in line with wine and beer, however this specimen is a liqueur mead that checks in at 18% abv and that makes it comparable to honey liqueurs and amari. This is a most frustrating product because it seems to be a good honey-based liqueur that is drowning under the weight of an absurd amount of spice, specifically cloves. Consequently it has no nuance or subtlety whatsoever. Apparently Maxwell Meadery bases this on their core-range spiced mead but they then add even more spices and pump it up to around 3 times the strength by spirit fortification. It is certainly not unpleasant to drink, even compelling in a strange way, but there is so much clove influence that it dominates the nose and palate to the point that it is almost literally a clove liqueur with traces of honey rather than a honey liqueur. I cannot understand why they felt compelled to be so heavy handed with the spices because the liqueur would be much, much better without it. If it were presented without the spice I’d probably rate this around 3.5, as the aroma and palate are fundamentally good (as far as I can tell). However as it is I can only consider this recipe as a curiously awkward sideshow attraction. “Adequate” : 74/100 (2.25 stars)18.0 AUD per Bottle -
Johnnie Walker Black Label Highlands Origin
Blended Malt — Highlands, Scotland
Reviewed September 9, 2021 (edited February 11, 2023)Nose: Bright grassy and hay-like aromas, honey and mild notes of orange zest and pears. Over time in the glass it blooms a little but there are no rich foundation aromas. The dry glass aroma is honey and maple syrup. Palate: Soft, silky texture on the arrival, which is grassy and has fresh honeyed stone-fruit notes (nectarine, apricot, peach). There is almost no progression and the whisky lacks depth, but it's a good palate nonetheless - just simple. A little mild ginger spice appears towards the finish. The standout feature is the texture which is excellent and very pleasantly waxy, if a trifle thin. Finish: Short. Soft fruit flavours that tail into delicate sweet ginger. This is the second of the Johnnie Walker “Origins” series I’ve tried. Like the Islay Origin bottling I had previously it is a blended malt crafted from whiskies made in one region. In this case the component whiskies all come from the highlands. Clynelish and Teaninich are the feature malts and both are instantly identifiable when you taste it. It’s a competent, light-bodied blended malt with good texture and it is very easy to sip, however it lacks the depth of the Islay Origin blend. I had the distinct impression this was only brought to market because the blenders were handed a brief to create four regional blends and there had to be something completely from the highlands (but why just the northeast?). Clynelish and Teaninich are excellent malts but both mainly contribute top-notes (particularly Teaninich) and texture (particularly Clynelish). Consequently this comes across like a band with two fine lead guitarists but no rhythm section. That impression is reinforced when the whisky is used as a mixer, as it disappears almost completely. Clynelish and Teaninich are also both frequently used by John Glaser in his blends, but he invariably adds something smoky or sherried into the vat to provide body and balance. It’s a pity Jim Beveridge and George Harper didn’t follow that approach here. I can't help but wonder whether a dash of Talisker or Oban in the blend might have improved it. "Good" : 83/100 (3.5 stars)55.0 AUD per Bottle -
Update 2May 2024 I retasted this yesterday at the distillery and made identical notes to my original post here (see below) so there is no need to change anything, apart from the fact that I noted even more vanilla than before. This is a good malt for the price and one that should not be underestimated. I’m upgrading my rating slightly. “Good” : 83/100 (3.5 stars) ————————————————— Nose: Pear drops, apple, lemon, vanilla, malt and floral honey. There is a density and weight to the nose with hints of an aroma that is intriguing and reminiscent of lanoline. Palate: Soft malt and fruit. Creamy, almost buttery (butterscotch?) in the development with lemongrass, hazelnut, caramel and a good deal of sweet vanilla. It’s a very easy palate with good texture. There is a little hot ginger towards the finish. Finish: Medium. Fruity resolving to sweet earthy malt with citrus overtones. On the one hand this might seem a typically light, fruity Speysider, however there is a depth of profile to both the nose and palate that is less typical. While there are certainly fruity notes in abundance here this is fundamentally a malty profile, and it has much in common with Glen Grant. I hesitate to use the terms “gateway” or “beginner” in reference to any malt as it seems dismissive, implying that easy whisky is best reserved for serving to inexperienced palates. This is unfair as a less challenging whisky can be just as pleasant in the right context as any Mortlach or Springbank. That said, this is a comparatively straightforward expression that focuses on warm, soothing aromas and flavours. The character is generally soft but there is a slight spicy heat in the later palate. A good quaffing whisky that also works as a mixer, where the sweet vanilla and floral tones are highlighted and the spice edge cuts through. So yes, I would offer this to a novice … not because it is simple but because it is approachable and good. “Above Average” : 82/100 (3.25 stars)75.0 AUD per Bottle
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Nose: Mild cereal and malt aromas with vanilla and pear notes. There is an ethanol presence but it’s not off-putting. Palate: A little hot on the arrival and you taste the nip of ethanol. Barley sugar and orchard fruits but the palate is very light and has a dash of vanilla sweetness. I didn't detect any smoke or peat - I feel that anything resembling that is more likely a tannic character imparted by old refill casks. Finish: Short, with a tinge of hard and bitter notes in the aftertaste, most likely from very young, pedestrian-grade grain whisky matured in tired old casks (a fault which is shared by most of the lower-tier blended scotches). Not a particularly interesting whisky but not unpleasant either. It’s an acceptable workhorse but don’t expect too much from what is one of the more affordable blended scotches. Water brings out a sweetness on the palate and as a mixer it adds a slightly sweet, cereal, vanilla and fruity background. A dash of water brings out a little sweetness on the palate. As a mixer it adds a slightly sweet, cereal, vanilla and fruity background. Not too bad on the whole, considering the price point, but it is up against some stiff competition, not the least from stablemate blended scotch Ballantines 12 Year Old, which is very much cut from the same cloth but ramps everything up a couple of notches. There is not a lot of difference in price so if you can find the 12 year old on special it is better value for money. “Adequate” : 73/100 (2.25 stars)39.0 AUD per Bottle
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Appearance: Slightly off-white/beige – pretty much like cream with a couple of drops of vanilla essence. Aroma: Nutmeg, almond extract, vanilla. Flavour and Texture: Creamy and sweet with a very mild tingle. Almond extract, vanilla, super mild baking spices (nutmeg, cinnamon, allspice). The aftertaste is slightly reminiscent of almond gelato or nougat. Not unpleasant but not particularly impressive either. I’m not a fan of Disaronno to start with and this is just a creamy variant brought to market to widen sales. It has the saving grace of not being too sweet or cloying but whether or not you like it depends entirely on your reaction to almond essence because that's most of what is going on here. Unfortunately almond essence is not something I particularly like (although oddly I like almonds and almond meal) so it's not my sort of thing and Mrs Cascode is not highly impressed with it either. We’ll probably finish the bottle and it may be better when mixed with other liqueurs (coffee or chocolate liqueurs might work well and it may also go with rum). However I doubt we would ever buy another bottle – there are better liqueurs from which to choose. Even being as objective as possible, I couldn't describe this as any more than average. “Average” : 78/100 (2.75 stars) NOTE - This was classified here on Distiller as an amaro – no, it absolutely is not. It's a creamy nut liqueur without any bitterness at all.37.0 AUD per Bottle
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Appearance: Translucent dark amber. Aroma: Peppermint, cola, Friar's Balsam. A refreshing and uplifting nose. Flavour and Texture: Peppermint, spearmint, bittersweet orange and cola arrival resolving to balsamic pine and gentian flavours with a complex background of subtle fruit extracts. It has an excellent texture that is satisfying but never veers towards being syrupy or cloying. A very good amaro from the house of Lazzaroni. Besides their range of liqueurs they are known for their biscuits which are, not surprisingly, particularly good accompaniments to coffee and liqueurs. Lazarroni amaro has a cleansing crispness and an interesting character that can be described as a bridge between Fernet Branca and Cynar. It has the crisp mintiness of a fernet but it is of considerably less intensity here. You nose it and think “what’s that smell?” and almost simultaneously realize it is peppermint, but it does not attack in the way the mint in fernet attacks. Similarly, it has herbal, cola, balsamic and slightly smoky notes that bring Cynar or rabarbaro amari to mind. The balance is stunning, with a light sweetness matched perfectly with a brisk bitter note from gentian and cinchona. Some palates might find it too bitter for comfort at first, while others may be instantly captivated - it all depends on your liking for bitter flavours. If it does seem "difficult" persist and try a second glass. You acquire the taste quickly and once you do many other amari suddenly seem far too heavy and sweet in comparison. Lazzaroni is something of a gateway amaro but it does not come to you, you have to come to it (although it is nowhere as challenging as Fernet). Delicious neat as a digestif, particularly when matched with biscotti, it also works very well over ice or with soda water and a twist of lemon as a refreshing summer cooler that is a welcome change from fruity spritzes. “Good” : 84/100 (3.75 stars)33.0 AUD per Bottle
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Appearance: Dark brown, almost black. Very like the appearance of black coffee. Aroma: Charred wood, bitumen, liquorice, orange peel, aniseed. Flavour and Texture: Sweet arrival with a burnt-cola, toffee and chocolate quality. Background notes of orange zest and cinchona. Deep and mouthcoating. Zucca has a similarity to some of the “alpine” amari such as Braulio, but it is not as herbal, and it is also similar to Cappelletti's Rababaro Sfumato, but that amaro is a lot smokier. The keystone ingredients here are extract of Rheum palmatum (which gives it an asphalt-like smoky note) plus sweet liquorice and orange oil. It also bears a resemblance to Cynar but it does not have as much complexity as that amaro and the stage here is very much dominated by the star ingredient. Good as a digestif, particularly good if warmed slightly and served with a slice of lemon or orange as a winter warmer. The only thing about Zucca that I dislike is its tendency to become cloying or overly sweet after a while. As an amaro it measures fairly low on the bitterness scale which makes it more immediately accessible but less compelling over time. It's not an amaro I buy frequently but I have had several bottles over the years so there is definitely something attractive about it. “Good” : 84/100 (3.75 stars)40.0 AUD per Bottle
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Nose: Brandy, orange preserve, violet and rose petals. A slight tobacco note after it has rested in the glass for a while. Palate: Sweet grape juice arrival that opens onto a raisin development with a little white pepper. The texture starts off full and rounded but seems to lose body as it develops and veers very slightly towards sourness. Finish: Medium. Spiced dried fruits with a mildly peppery, tannic aftertaste that finally turns sweet again at the very end. It’s been many years since I last tasted Metaxa. A few months back Mrs Cascode and I were exploring a Greek market in Sydney looking for masticha when I spied this on the shelf and decided it was high time I tried it again. Metaxa is actually very easy to find in Australia, almost every bottle shop will have it, but it’s something I always reach past. It’s not as interesting as I remembered, but neither is it unpleasant. It just seems a bit underwhelming nowadays and there are definitely two disparate things going on in it. There is an unmistakable brandy component but it’s not what I’d call a great example of the spirit. It reminds me of Hardy's Black Bottle, an Australian hospital-grade brandy that sells for about US$20. This is paired with a rosy-tinged, dusky fortified wine that lends sweetness but strangely not much body. It may be the low proof or perhaps I just prefer the heft of undiluted muscat, port or sherry nowadays. These two elements seem oddly not integrated, although balanced. It’s worth trying a glass, but I think we’ll use the rest for cooking and I seriously doubt I’d buy another bottle. It's just not that special. “Average” : 78/100 (2.75 stars)43.0 AUD per Bottle
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Singleton of Dufftown Spey Cascade
Single Malt — Speyside, Scotland
Reviewed August 5, 2021 (edited August 23, 2022)Nose: Green apples, maple syrup, a hint of lemon and a very faint note of ash or char like vanilla sugar that has been caramelized and almost-but-not-quite burnt. The nose improves with a little time to develop in the glass, gaining depth and body. Palate: Light, grassy, fruity arrival with a little ginger. Not a lot in the development – some apple and walnut notes, and an almost vodka-like ethanol taste is discerned. The texture is forgettable but not bad. Finish: Short. Mildly spicy and fruity with a faint saltiness in the aftertaste. The nose reminds me much more of a mid-shelf blend than a malt whisky and the palate follows suit. This has a simple profile built around apple-juice characteristics (maybe some pear notes as well), thinned honey or syrup and mild spice. It’s not awful but neither is it particularly inspirational. It stands up to neat sipping, just barely, but does not provide much of interest to enjoy. It’s better as a mixer for long drinks. It is in the same price bracket as several better single malts and suffers from the comparison. It is also outclassed in both price and quality by the usual suspect blended malts Naked Grouse and Monkey Shoulder, and for that matter there are blended scotches that outclass this for a good deal less money. I've yet to be impressed by any Singleton bottling and I can't see myself buying this again. “Average” : 75/100 (2.25 stars)70.0 AUD per Bottle -
Johnnie Walker Black Label Islay Origin
Blended Malt — Islay, Scotland
Reviewed July 29, 2021 (edited August 23, 2022)Nose: Immediately peaty, maritime and with that signature note of sherried-asphalt that proudly shouts "Lagavulin". There is a sweet orange and stewed fruit presence that has excellent density – you’d almost think there was a PX cask involved. A very good nose that develops with time. Palate: Rich and full arrival, dried fruits, thick ashy smoke. The development is limited and you could be hard-hearted and call this two dimensional, but what is there delivers 100%. The texture is mouth-coating and heavy. Finish: Medium. Sooty smoke, a note of salted toffee and some vague fruity notes in the aftertaste. Warming and satisfying, you can taste barley sugar in the lingering aftertaste. On the box it says this contains a “variety of Islay whiskies with Lagavulin and Caol Ila at its heart”, but it's hard to see how it could be otherwise – Diageo only owns two Islay distilleries so guess what is in here? This is a good blended malt crafted with the touch of a master. Forget the fact that it is limited in depth, this is a showcase for maritime smokiness against a buttery, creamy background. Not long ago Diageo released the Centenary Blend which was an excellent scotch, but somewhat inaccessible for less experienced whisky drinkers and very expensive at around AUD$100. This, however, is the everyday smoky blended malt par excellence. It’s way better than contemporary Black Label (which has fallen from grace in the last few years) and more elegant than Double Black, both of which are blended scotches, of course. At AUD$70 it is about 50% more than Black Label and more than half-way in price between Black Label and Green Label. However as it is a blended malt the price is fair. Is it Green Label Lite? No, it has a different character. It's very approachable and satisfying, enjoyable as a sipping dram, and too good to dilute as a mixer. I think I’ll buy a second bottle while it is available on special. Great value and recommended. “Good” : 84/100 (3.75 stars)70.0 AUD per Bottle
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