Tastes
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Kilkerran Heavily Peated Batch #3
Single Malt — Campbeltown, Scotland
Reviewed December 28, 2020 (edited January 19, 2022)Nose: Oatmeal, sour cream, pine-resin, sweet but reserved peaty notes. There’s an almost mescal-like vegetal aroma, a sharp flinty mineral quality, a dot of vanilla and just a hint of plastic. This smells very young and somehow dilute. There is an alcohol prickle that can be tamed by adding a dash of water. This broadens the nose slightly, but don’t add too much as it can suddenly drown and lose all presence. Palate: Briny arrival with salted lemons, ash and some sweet-and-sour cereal notes. The mouthfeel is oily but thin, and offset by the astringency of a high alcohol presence. Cabbage-water, iodine and a little pepper. It’s not a very complex palate but adding a dash of water helps here as well by bringing out quite a lot of sweetness to balance the otherwise salty profile. Finish: Medium/short. The vegetal notes tail off into a mild preserved lemon aftertaste with a little sour peat. This whisky has the sort of nose that could easily be objectionable. There are rubbery, feinty aromas but it is saved by the grace of being reserved, dry and austere. It reminds you at every juncture that it is very young. The palate likewise is narrow and the cask influence is minimal. For a whisky that is advertised as “heavily peated” the subjective peat level on this is surprisingly low, but to be fair it is also labelled “Peat in Progress” and should be tasted with those words in mind. This is not really a finished product. It’s a progress report ; a memo from the developers ; a dispatch from the front lines. Like the other Kilkerran Heavily Peated batches this is a glimpse of what will come with time, just as the “Work in Progress” expressions gave us a window onto what would eventually become Kilkerran 12. I would be very surprised if this whisky is even 5 years old, but the brilliance of a fine-cut gem is there already and I’m sure when the descendant of this whisky is released with an 8, 10 or 12 year age statement it will be very good. It’s interesting but I would not recommend this to a novice or even to an experienced but casual single-malt drinker. This expression is mostly of interest to the whisky-nerd, particularly Springbank/Glengyle geeks. “Above Average” : 81/100 (3 stars) [but one day this will be a 4 star whisky for sure]130.0 AUD per Bottle -
Appearance (neat): Light peridot/emerald green. Natural colouration (see below). The louche is slow and measured with thick, oily swirls being the first sign. These grow into fine wisps of cream and the louche proper begins at about 1:2. Depending on whether you use sugar and how fast you dilute you may see a layer of sugar saturates at the bottom of the glass and another of oils at the top of the liquid, with a pale yellow cloud suspended between. This is not unusual but it is quite marked here. The final appearance is milky white jade with yellow highlights. Aroma: Complex anise, coriander, hyssop and wormwood profile with floral, mint and citrus notes. The aromas are tight when neat but bloom with the very first drops of water and combine to create a clean, fresh herbal mélange by about 1:3-1:4. Flavour: Sumptuous, sweet entry at all dilutions from 1:3-1:6, but I’d recommend a dilution of 1:4-1:5 as I feel the finish is best at that point. At low dilution there is a bitter quality to the aftertaste but this disappears completely once the strength is reduced to below about 20% abv, and at that point the finish develops numerous sweet notes. There is an herbal complexity and the slight woody, "twiggy" character that is often found in good absinthe. Hard-core devotees may prefer not to use any sugar, but personally I like the decadence of it with one cube. Overall the palate is rounded, complex and satisfying with a mouth-coating texture and good length. This is quite a luxurious absinthe and a new favourite. It's better than Pernod as an entry-level absinthe, but to be fair it is half as expensive again so maybe "entry-level" is a stretch. The presentation is creamier than Pernod, there is a soft citrus note and the bitter late palate taint in Pernod is not present. Now – THIS IS IMPORTANT: If you see reviews that criticize this absinthe for being artificially coloured, or dismiss it because it is just a mix of oils in neutral alcohol, then ignore them. Such reviews are referring to a very early version of the product. They are now out of date and only of historical interest. La Fée (i.e. The Fairy) was the first absinthe to be produced in France after the prohibition laws were repealed. However when launched in 2000 it was not in its current form and was deservedly criticized. It was a first attempt to revive the spirit, artificially coloured, and not distilled from scratch using botanical ingredients. It was rough and harsh in profile with an intense and unbalanced anise (maybe even star anise!) presence. I suspect the first batches were rushed to market but sadly they continued to produce that early product for some time and it gathered a lot of bad press. I remember tasting it in 2004 and the note in my journal from then simply says "inferior - avoid in future". However in 2013 the producers did the smart thing and overhauled the spirit, inventing a new formula that was more accurate to pre-ban absinthe recipes. They revised the production approach, moved to 100% distillation from fresh botanicals and started using a traditional chlorophyll colouring process. They successfully transformed their product into something significantly better and should be congratulated for so doing. La Fée is marketed now as “La Fée Parisienne Absinthe Supérieure” and the label looks just slightly different to the one in the Distiller listing thumbnail. I doubt any of the old pre-2013 stock would still be available, but you can easily tell the new expression by the green plasticized coating on the bottles which is to prevent light from deteriorating the natural colour. This is a very good and pleasantly addictive absinthe that leans towards a sweet profile. The official Distiller notes are insightful and right on target. “Very Good” : 87/100 (4.25 stars)150.0 AUD per Bottle
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Appearance (neat): Brilliant yellow quartz/zircon with a green tinge, transparent and gleaming. The louche begins almost immediately with the bright yellow tone preserved but turning cloudy, like yellow jade. As the dilution increases the liquid turns pale, eventually settling into a cloudy lemon colour that is similar in appearance to cloudy limoncello. Aroma: Herbal, minty, citrus (lemon). Anise and fennel are apparent but restrained in comparison to most pastis and there is a petit wormwood aroma. The louched aroma is like a cool morning breeze, lightly scented with anise and citrus. Flavour and Texture: In a 1:4 dilution this is deliciously refreshing, with mild hints of anise, fennel and petit wormwood (but no grand wormwood). There are fruity, citrus notes and a relaxed herbal sweetness. The texture is full-bodied and satisfying. It is very clean and cooling and there is a touch of liquorice in the aftertaste. In comparison to its stable-mate aperitifs Ricard and Pastis 51, and also to many other pastis, Pernod has a lower star-anise content, a prominent sweet citrus character and greater overall complexity but it is not the most complex pastis by any means. There is just enough anise/liquorice character to make the drink interesting, but not enough to become one-note or overpowering and I much prefer it to Ricard. Actually, it’s debatable whether Pernod is a “genuine” pastis. It shares many characteristics with such spirits but there are things that set it apart and it’s more accurate to call it an “anise liqueur” (as it states on the label) that is positioned half way between absinthe and pastis. It tastes just a little more like an absinthe than a pastis, but it has pre-added sugar and a much lower alcohol content than any absinthe, which makes it more approachable and easier to prepare. I enjoy it a great deal and I think it is only challenged by the very finest of the true pastis, such as Henri Bardouin and Lemercier 1811. “Very Good” : 87/100 (4.25 stars)50.0 AUD per Bottle
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Les Fils d'Emile Pernod Bourgeois Absinthe
Absinthe — Pontarlier, France
Reviewed December 21, 2020 (edited August 5, 2022)Appearance: Pale peridot green/yellow, clearly naturally coloured from botanical maceration. The louche has a pleasing density and an pretty opalescent green hue with pearl highlights. It begins to louche quickly which is to be expected from a lower abv absinthe. Be careful not to over-dilute this one as it is only 55% abv. Nose: Fresh anise and fennel with a complex and inviting vegetal/herbal backdrop. Wormwood is present for sure, and ties the nose together with consummate precision, but the fresh notes are the standout here. This is a crisp, light nose – not bright nor hard – but relaxed and almost fruity. There is a sprightly citrus quality. Palate: Crisp, fruity and with good wormwood character. It is creamy and has a silky-satin texture. Beautifully composed. It’s not the most intense absinthe palate I’ve experienced by a long shot, but it is very appealing and has no off-notes at all. There is a foundation sweetness to the palate and a lack of “challenge” from the 55% abv that is welcome and pleasant. The finish is crisp, light and sweet. Refreshing and almost effervescent with a sparkling “joie-de-vivre”. A lovely smooth, fresh and light summery absinthe. Excellent stuff. At the comparatively low abv of 55% this might seem the poor cousin of the various absinthe offerings, but you could not be more mistaken. This is a richly flavoured, high grade absinthe crafted with expertise and passion. I would recommend it to anyone intent on exploring this spirit for the first time as a highly approachable and playful expression that does not pull punches. I'd also recommend a louche of no more than 1:4 as this will reduce the spirit to a little over 12%, which is the default sweet spot for most absinthes. Taking it higher rapidly drowns it, even just to 1:5 dilution. The original Bourgeois Absinthe was a famous brand that was advertised throughout France on a poster with the image of a kitten tasting a louched glass of absinthe. Sadly the original company disappeared a long time ago during the "dark days" but the recipe was revived by Les Fils d'Emile Pernot who have captured a glimpse of the original spirit with finesse and style. I’d recommend this absinthe highly to both novices and devotees of la fée verte. “Very Good” : 87/100 (4.25 stars)80.0 AUD per Bottle -
Drumshanbo Gunpowder Irish Gin
Modern Gin — Ireland
Reviewed December 18, 2020 (edited December 30, 2021)Nose: Very citrus-forward. Orange, lemon and lime with floral aromas in support. Spicy notes are low-key here, there is a trace of juniper, cardamom and anise but these are foundational and not the stand-out fragrances. Over time an almost minty aroma comes out. Palate: Balanced arrival with a notable chilli and white pepper kick that expands as it evolves. Bright citrus flavours, but they are crisp rather than sweet. Over time there is a tea-like note, but if I did not know from the start that this contained green tea I probably would not have picked it. Very well integrated and soft throughout, but with a prominent crisp, fresh juniper presence. Finish: Medium. The peppery juniper notes from the palate smoothly segue into a refreshing and lightly citrus aftertaste with delicate seed-spice notes. At no point is there any bitterness or harsh quality to this gin. So, it’s funny how things happen. I was discussing this gin here earlier and lamenting the fact that it is expensive in Australia. Later I went for a stroll down to one of the local liquor stores to buy some aperitivo and what should I find but Drumshanbo at $20 off normal price. I couldn’t walk past that (the quoted price below is the normal retail). I definitely get why this is an award-winning gin and why it is so popular on this site (with the community, anyway – the official rating is too stingy). The distillation is excellent with the macerated botanicals handled gently to provide a solid support for a big bouquet of lighter citrus elements and tea leaves that have been vapour infused. This preserves their delicacy and prevents bitter notes forming. It reminds me a little of Roku gin, but because of the citrus element and the fresh floral tones, not specifically because both contain tea. I’d definitely buy this again but whether I bought it in preference to Roku would depend entirely on the relative cost of the two products at the time, and Roku is usually 2/3 the price. There is also a crisp, bright juniper note that reminds me a little of Cotswolds, but this is not so juniper-heavy. I’d certainly recommend it. So what is it with Ireland, huh? Three of my top 10 gins now hail from the Emerald Isle – Dingle, Method & Madness and as of today, Drumshanbo. By the way - if you use this in a G&T (where it is delicious) don't add a slice of lime or lemon, if that is your usual habit. This has enough delicate citrus notes to be fine without help. “Very Good” : 87/100 (4.25)80.0 AUD per Bottle -
Cappelletti Pasubio Vino Amaro
Amaro — Piedmont, Italy
Reviewed December 17, 2020 (edited August 9, 2022)Appearance: Cloudy but almost transparent brown. A little like an old oloroso sherry, but not as clear. Aroma: Blackberries, blueberries, pine trees, juniper, red vermouth and cider vinegar. There is a secondary aroma that is reminiscent of ale and sarsaparilla, and a very faint hint of ash. Palate: Sweet and honeyed flavours on the entry but it is not at all heavy. These give way to mint and pine over a background of blueberries, grape skins and red grape juice that is just on the turn. A further development brings herbal notes and a mild bitterness from gentian and wormwood. It has an excellent mildly warming and lip-smacking quality. Pasubio is an interesting amaro, being one of the rare examples that is based on aged red wine rather than neutral spirit. This gives it a totally different profile to most and it can take you by surprise on first sip. I tasted it for the first time last night and initially I didn’t like it much, in fact it seemed quite alien. After another small liqueur glass I started to get where it was coming from but I still wasn’t that impressed. I had intentionally not read the label so as not to influence my tasting. This evening I poured another glass and this time read the label. “Vino amaro” it clearly says. Duh. Suddenly everything fell into place and when I nosed it with the knowledge that this is wine-based it seemed familiar and well-composed. It’s amazing how a tasting can transform when you fit in a missing piece of the puzzle. This is a well-crafted amaro of the “alpine” type. It has similarities to Braulio but is not as crisp. It is very different to sweet amari like Montenegro, Meletti and Vecchio Amaro del Capo, and it does not have the brisk citrus notes of Averna or Lucano. It’s probably one of the least immediately appealing of the different styles, but it is satisfying once you get to know it. There is a vague suggestion of both vermouth and sherry about it. “Very Good” : 85/100 (4 stars)55.0 AUD per Bottle -
Lillet Rouge
Other Aromatized Wine — Bordeaux, France
Reviewed December 17, 2020 (edited August 10, 2022)Appearance: Burgundy. Aroma: Full-bodied, fruity red wine with spice and citrus notes – it brings mulled claret to mind. Flavour and Texture: Sweet and bitter in equal measure on the entry. Oak tannin, quinine and a bright fruity bitterness that fades to a full but dry finish. There is a crisp and lively character throughout. Lillet Rouge is less well-known than its illustrious older sibling, which is a great shame. While the Blanc is indispensable as a bar ingredient (and delightful by itself) the Rouge expression is more suited as the base for punches, spritzes, and other long drinks. It’s a cousin to Italian aperitivi such as Aperol and Select, but it has a richer and more elegant profile as the base is full-bodied red wine. It is also a cousin to Dubonnet and Byrrh. When used as a long drink base it becomes similar to Lambrusco, rouge Moscato, Sangria and other light summer wines and punches. It teams spectacularly well with red meat, particularly charcoal-grill meat on a hot afternoon. Lillet Rouge is excellent neat over ice with a slice of orange as a refreshing aperitif and it mixes very well with tonic to make a longer drink (as does Lillet Blanc). For those with a sweet tooth try substituting sparkling lemonade for tonic to make a very easy-drinking cooler, but if that is too sweet then try soda water of varying types. I’ve found Fever Tree Elderflower Tonic to be a marvelous combination. Incidentally, if you are watching your weight and trying to find a long spritz-like cooler for summer it's worth noting that the bitter notes in Lillet Rouge precisely mask the taste of artificial sweetener in no-sugar lemonade. The combination of the two is brilliantly balanced. It's a delicious aromatized wine that deserves to be more widely acknowledged. Buy a bottle and start experimenting - it will work a treat in any applicable context. “Excellent” : 88/100 (4.5 stars)45.0 AUD per Bottle -
Appearance: Creamy with a very faint pinkish/brown tinge. Thick legs. Aroma: Nutmeg, fresh-baked cinnamon rolls, a hint of vanilla and malted milk. Flavour and texture: Creamy and sweet on the arrival with an unmistakable nutmeg and cinnamon flavour. Not unlike spiced milk (but better). The texture is creamy, but not at all cloying or oily. The palate fades fast and it's very addictive. This is a cross between an herbal and a nut liqueur with a creamy texture that comes from the use of tiger-nut meal (think almond milk and you're not too far off). The direct inspiration is horchata. Imagine a glass of refreshing almond and rice milk, slightly thickened and sweetened, laced with a mix of baking spices and rum and served ice cold on the rocks. It's a successful pseudo-dairy liqueur which is suitable for those who are lactose and/or gluten intolerant. The nut-meal milk texture makes it thick and satisfying but also crisp and refreshing, without the fatty cloyingness of milk. If you like “Coole Swan” white chocolate liqueur or "Rumchata" then give this a try – it’s a relatively similar profile. Also, please note, this product was first marketed as “Licor 43 Orochata” but after disappearing for a short time it re-emerged under this new name. The packaging is virtually identical and the liqueur itself is the same, as far as I can tell. Mrs Cascode loves this and was delighted to see it return to the liquor market shelves. "Good" : 83/100 (3.25 stars)40.0 AUD per Bottle
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Appearance: Dark brown, almost black. Opaque, even against a strong light. Aroma: Menthol, mint, various woody herbal and root extracts. It smells similar to herbal cough mixture. Flavour and Texture: The initial taste at the front of the tongue is mildly minty and herbal with a sweet character but no obvious added sugar. As you move it around the mouth, earthy and woody flavours appear. As it moves into the aftertaste a metallic note suddenly rises that is uncannily like licking rusty metal or tasting blood. The texture is full but not heavy. The nose on this is a little like a tame version of Fernet Branca, with less bright menthol and more earthy aromas. There is no sign of citrus nor any soft herbal flavours. A “china” (pronounced kee-na) is a subclass of amari that is distinguished by a high proportion of Cinchona calisaya bark extract, which contains bitter quinine and other alcaloids. Chinas are related to the quinquina family of drinks which includes Dubonnet and Cocchi Americano. Ferro-chinas are an even further sub-category that also contain ammonium iron citrate and were originally created specifically as blood tonics. It might sound like snake-oil nowadays but there is something to this. Anaemia was a common complaint in the 19th century and tonics such as Bisleri were sold as non-prescription medicine. Today we take iron supplement tablets for the same purpose. This is a difficult drink to rate as it is very much an acquired taste, although not an unpleasant one. Taken neat it requires a glass or two to come to grips with the palate. It can also be taken as a long drink with soda water and a slice of citrus, which makes it much easier but it is still reminiscent of drinking water from an old rusty tap. Have you ever been to Bath in England and “taken the waters”? It tastes exactly like that. It has a mildly drying and astringent quality neat, but this is much reduced in dilution. It’s not as refreshing as an aperitivo but it does have a pleasing lack of sugar. Many amari claim to be digestifs but they sometimes make me feel full and can cause indigestion. This one actually does work as a soothing after-dinner drink. Also I’m not entirely certain whether this is still available. According to Difford’s it ceased production in 2015 but I have seen several online sites here that have it listed. I found a bottle in a suburban Italian liquor/grocery store today but whether it is just old stock, I can’t say. “Above Average (but unusual and not for all tastes)” : 82/100 (3.25 stars)37.0 AUD per Bottle
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Chase Sloe & Mulberry Gin
Sloe Gin & Variants — England
Reviewed December 14, 2020 (edited July 23, 2022)Appearance: Dark crimson/brick red, like cranberry juice. Aroma: The initial impression is of juniper-prominent gin. After a few moments and several inhalations the fruit-note starts to come through. It is mild at first but gradually gains intensity and eventually shows an intense red berry character. The gin botanicals are never swamped, however, and the nose has excellent balance. Flavour and Texture: Also excellent but the opposite of the nose – it’s sweet and slightly tart on entry with fruit to the fore then the gin botanicals emerge as it rests on the palate. There is considerable complexity but an excellent balance is maintained. The texture is rich and lightly syrupy and the finish medium-long, herbal, juicy and just slightly tinged with oak. A very pleasant and finely balanced sloe gin. Sometimes berry-infused gin can be cloying but while this is warming and comforting it still retains a gentle balance that sets it above other examples. It avoids the clinging, jammy-like sweetness that is too-often encountered in sloe gin. Sugar must be added, both to open the fruit to maceration and to balance the natural tart flavour. However it’s a common mistake to go too far and make it into a liqueur when it should be a flavoured spirit. This particular sloe gin also includes mulberries which contribute both an individual flavour and also sweetness from fructose to balance the sloes, which means the white sugar component can be reduced. The maceration is then aged in ex-red wine casks for a year to give additive berry notes and meld the components. I’ve tasted many sloe-gins and in my experience they express themselves best in different ways. Most are good neat as a liqueur, but tonic may suit some, giving a result not unlike an aperitivo spritz. Some team best with lemonade rather in the manner of Pimms, while others might be best with dry companions like soda water and a squeeze of lime. This particular example is quite versatile and also excellent on its own as a liqueur. “Very Good” : 87/100 (4.25 stars)59.0 AUD per Bottle
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